i had my local gas station mechanic change mine on my 04. he picked up a toyota battery for $150. and charged me $60. to install it. no prolemo.
When we changed out the 12V for an Optima, doing the bolt/vent switch as the most difficult... DH spent almost an hour, as it was awkward, though not "hard"... took a lot of patience.
Yes, the bolt that secures the traction battery vent to the fender is a slippery devil and wants to fall into the space occupied by the battery. Therefore I suggest that after you place the new battery into its new home, you might put the battery bracket in place but not tighten it down until the vent is installed. In case you drop the vent bolt into the battery area, there will be less to remove to find the bolt.
To be honest, having read the DIY instructions and watched videos over and over again to familiarize myself with the process prior to attempting this project, this is the part that makes me the most nervous. So...a couple of questions: Is this the part that requires the long ratchet extension and a magnetic something-or-other? Does this piece HAVE to be removed? Is it a screw or a bolt? I've seen it referred to as both. Thank you. Julia
1. Yes. I have a telescoping wand with a magnet on the tip. That might help. Sometimes though, the tip will get stuck on the body sheet metal while you are probing around trying to find the screw. 2. Yes, you must remove the traction battery vent duct for access to the 12V battery 3. Self-tapping screw with 10 mm hex head. The fender has a plastic fitting that the screw fits into. If you drop the screw into the deep dark fender well, don't worry, and recall that many others (including me) have done the very same thing. Worst case is that you have to lift the battery out, then you can reach around and find the screw. Allow yourself plenty of time to do this job.
Thanks so much, Patrick. I looked online at what you've described as self-tapping screws, and noticed that some have a slot for a flat head screwdriver, and others have only the hex head but no slot. I'm trying to determine if I can get this screw in and out with a flat head screwdriver. I have some long ones. Otherwise I will need to purchase a long extension for my ratchet or something similar.
Yes, you should get an extension, six inch length will probably work. You really don't want to be in the middle of doing this with the car inoperative, and then decide that you need to buy another tool without any convenient way to get to your tool store.
Correct. When I picked up the battery I also bought a six inch extension for my socket set. The only thing I don't have is a long magnetic thingie. They didn't have one. Once I locate one I will have everything I need laid out in front of me and I will scrub in for the surgery. I will agree that the battery IS heavy, but I carried it out of the store and put it in my car so I'm sure I can handle placing it. The only thing worrying me still is that one bolt in the back of the vent! But I am confident that at SOME point in the relatively near future I will be back here reporting a successful batteryectomy. Or yelling for help! Thank you all again. Julia
Harbor Freight has a fine selection of the magnetic pickup. Google You might find muscles you did not know existed. Good luck with the job. Ron
Thank you, Ron! If you hear screaming from the north, you will know that I lost that little bolt that holds the vent on, OR the bolts are too tight for me to remove. Grrrr.....
Okay. Got the magnetic pick-up tool. At some point today I will attempt my first batteryectomy. Wish me luck! Thank you again for all of the tips and guidance!
That's awesome, Jimbo! Thank you! Okay...so I have completed my first batteryectomy. I have good news and bad news. Well, actually I'm hoping you're going to assure me that it isn't bad news...just normal news...we will see. The batteryectomy went very well. I am happy to have completed the job successfully. I took my time and was careful and it really went well. Surprisingly, the thing I worried most about was that silly bolt on the back of the vent duct. I even purchased special tools just in case I couldn't manage that part well, when in fact my hands are so small that I was able to just reach all the way in there and turn it with my hand! Used my ratchet with extension to loosen (that one seemed loose-ish anyway) and then just stuck my hand in there and loosened the rest and pulled it out. Tightened back up the same way in reverse. Here's the only problem I have encountered...and I'm very nervous about this.... I ran a vehicle system check a la jdenenberg's excellent instructions, and I do NOT show a healthy brand new battery. I have read in these forums that I should see 12.8. I saw 12.1 on the first try (ACC I think it's called?), and then with a load (Ig-on or something like that?) it is reading 11.9 just like my old battery did. This makes me afraid there's a fault somewhere...whatever that means. But I'm not showing a nice new healthy Optima battery, that's for sure. I will tell you that prior to picking up the battery I called and asked them to please check the voltage for me. He laughed at me and said "it's a brand new battery. Of course the voltage is perfect" or something like that. I asked him to do it anyway (because of things I've read in my research on this board) and if it didn't read 12.8 to please hook it up to a charger. He said he would check the voltage and call me back. He called back and said it was perfect just as he had expected. Still laughing at me. Either they didn't check it truly, or there's something wrong with my car, right? Thank you for any thoughts you might have on this. Julia
Make him laugh a bit loader! Tell him you want a new battery , not one that sat on the shelf for a year or so. Your not the first to have had this issue with Optima battery. Those are really low readings. Maybe you could borrows a multi meter from someone that has one and double check the output. H
Just tried it again after running the car in ready mode for 10-15 minutes. In ACC it showed 12.5. Pressed power button again (foot not on brake - IgOn) and it's vacillating between 12.0 and 12.1. Then when I turn the car on....power button w foot on brake...Battery reading between 13.9 and 14.0, now remaining at 13.9.
I own one of these....trying to remember how to use it. This is what you mean by multimeter, right? Amazon.com: A.W. Sperry DM350A 5 Function 17 Range Digital Multimeter: Home Improvement