"Real" reason to remove wheel trim rings

That's interesting, I had never thought of that, but it seems like a reasonable trap for dirt, salt etc.

I'd also like to see any studies done on removing the wheel trim and the effects on FE. I can't imagine they'd have a significant drag factor, but then again, I'm not an aerodynamics expert.

 

When I first pulled them off, I put them back on right away because of how they looked with all the dirt trapped there. A week later I removed them again and cleaned the rims. I haven't put them back on yet.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(tekn0wledg @ Aug 15 2007, 12:11 PM) [snapback]496171[/snapback]</div>

Dumb question. How do I remove the trims. Do I really just pull them off? Are they just held by clips? Any tips? I pulled on them a bit by was afraid to break them.

Thanks

 

Give it a quick sharp tug and off it goes.

I popped mine of when the car had 100 miles and there already was gunk in there.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(David Beale @ Aug 15 2007, 12:06 PM) [snapback]496167[/snapback]</div>

Hmmm... that's interesting. My trim rings don't trap and "salt, sand or mud" at all in the winter.

... then again, I guess that that would be expected, with my stock wheels sitting in the garage while I use steel rims and real winter tires... :lol:

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(mrnice @ Aug 16 2007, 03:13 AM) [snapback]496252[/snapback]</div>

Grab the ring with 2 hands with 2 spokes between your hands to prevent cracking.
I took my trim rings off and cleaned behind them and didn't put the trims back on.
Thinking about the stainless steel 15 inch racing dome caps, was thinking the aluminium domes but I think the stainless steel ones will fit, are less likely to scratch and there is no need to drill holes in the trim ring so I can put them back on if I like. Oh, the stainless ones are cheaper too. :lol:

Has anyone tried any standard type wheel covers designed for steel wheels?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(tekn0wledg @ Aug 15 2007, 12:11 PM) [snapback]496171[/snapback]</div>

Same topic ... different thread. The search tool is a wonderful thing Re FE: Maybe less than 1/2 of 1% ?? IN other words, unnoticable. As others have said, if you raise your tire pressue 3 or 4 lbs, that pretty much makes up any theoretical mpg loss.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(hill @ Aug 16 2007, 10:25 AM) [snapback]496847[/snapback]</div>

But if I increase my TP, AND prevent the theoretical loss, wouldn't my MPG be ever better still?

I don't know whether or not the trim rings affect the MPG. I've removed mine, though I did wonder (and search) about what affect they would have good or bad. I haven't seen any obvious difference in FE, but I also wouldn't be too quick to dismiss the possibility that they make a difference. Aerodynamics is a tricky (and often counter-intuitive) thing. For one, the top of the wheel is moving forward with a relative airspeed of nearly double the car speed. And it's not only the drag on the rotating wheels themselves; there's also the potential turbulence they can create, which could affect the airflow over the rest of the car. I have no answers, but I think it's a valid question.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(GeoDosch @ Aug 16 2007, 10:59 AM) [snapback]496874[/snapback]</div>

I was thinking about this, and if you look at the curves of the Prius, the front end should pretty much deflect the airflow around the front wheels entirely. The air may hit the rear wheels more, but I am fairly certain the amount of drag is probably insignificant.

 

The aerodynamic drag is speed-related. So it probably doesn't become a factor below Mach 1. Or at least it's tiny at normal highway speeds...

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Rick Auricchio @ Aug 16 2007, 12:55 PM) [snapback]496969[/snapback]</div>

I'm trying to figure out if your post was meant to be tongue-in-cheek, or if you were serious.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Tideland Prius @ Aug 16 2007, 04:59 PM) [snapback]497230[/snapback]</div>

Have you tried the mother's or meguiar's claybar kit sold at most auto part stores to remove the crud? You would be surprised what the claybar kit takes off. I like the kit that comes with detail spray, microfiber cloth, 2 claybars and a plastic box to hold the claybar when you are done. It is about $20 at Advance auto or pep boys. I prefer Advance Auto since part of my IRA is in this company (AAP)

 

to clean my wheels behind the trim rings I use soap and water with a soft brush then used a soft cotton cloth like tee shirt and Mr Sheen to polish up the wheels. Mr Sheen removes all sorts of yukky stuff. I use it for getting off bugs and tar. It's mostly fish oil and won't hurt paint, metal or plastic. Don't get it on your disc brakes though.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Tideland Prius @ Aug 16 2007, 09:39 PM) [snapback]497468[/snapback]</div>

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I just wanted to ask...

I've never used this claybar stuff... is it safe for the paint? I have a few drops of tree sap on my hood & fenders which I have not been able to get off with the usual means (pressure washer, soap, sponge, etc...). Don't ever get this stuff on your car. <_<

 

The only thing that I have used thus far is....baking soda with a little water to get it pasty....works wonders on the bug removal and even wheels.
and....
I recently put back the wheel rings on, since there is no real answer if the mpg's are effected or not, but then...
I just had mud guards installed which might effect the mpg's. The question is....am I back where I started? <_<

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Sarge @ Aug 17 2007, 09:29 AM) [snapback]497763[/snapback]</div>

Taco= your vehicle of choice
I did not make this post but it is very informative. It is where I got the claybar info from AFTER I used Zaino claybar Z18 on my Taco
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t126755.html

Go to this URL and watch the short 3 min vid and it should get you up to speed on claybar and why you need it. http://www.mothers.com/reelworld/reels/Clay_Bar.html Just copy and paste it if it does not seem to be in link form.
Claying

I should have put this info right after the Washing/Drying post. You should clay after washing, not after polishing.

Watch this video. Clay Bar Paint Saving System
When contaminants get a solid grip on your vehicles paint, washing alone may not be enough to remove them. Pre-wax cleaners also may not be able to exfoliate large particles. In this case, you have two choices: use a polishing compound, which removes a lot of paint material, or use a clay bar. Clay isn't a polish or a compound, it is a surface preparation bar that smoothes the paint and exfoliates contaminants.

Automotive paint cleaning clay offers many advantages in the removal of surface contamination from paint. Even in the hands of a first-time user, clay is safe and easy to use. Sure, if you use a dirty clay bar, scratches can result. However, compared to machine buffing, compounding, or using harsh chemicals, clay is safer, faster and easier.

Most auto stores carry some brand of Clay Bar Kit. They are all pretty much the same. Clay Magic and Mothers' are good. I like Meguiars Clay Bar kit because the clay bar is a little bigger and easier to hold, but it's more expensive.

Clay is not a cure-all or a replacement for polishing. It's a tool for quickly and easily removing surface contamination. The clay bar will not last forever. As you use it, it will get full of contaminants. It's up to you when you throw it away. I might do a full clay job 5 times before I throw it away. But if you are claying an older vehicle you might get less life out of the clay.

When I can no longer remold clay to get a clean surface, I retire it for use on my windows. The dirty clay will not harm glass, and it's amazing how much dirt film clay can remove from your exterior glass windows. It works very well, and seems to outperform even the best window cleaners. BTW, my favorite window cleaner is Meguiars NXT window cleaner. It's not a real strong cleaner, but it doesn't leave streaks if you use it with a microfiber towel.


One of the main reasons for using clay is the removal of brake dust. Brake dust is a metallic surface contaminant that can be removed safely and effectively by using clay. Clay will also remove tree sap, paint overspray, and tar. On thick tar I will use a gentle solvent like bug and tar remover or Goo Gone.

Don't drop the clay on the ground. You don't want to pick up any dirt or gravel. If the clay is sticking or not sliding easy, then you need to spray more lubricant. Be liberal with the lubricant. It doesn't hurt if it runs down the paint. The lubricant might leave a hazy film, which is just a light wax, but it is easily removed. I don't even worry about it. I go from claying straight to polishing or waxing. You can also use soapy water if you run out of spray lubricant.


The video should answer most of the other questions on how to use a clay bar.

 

I used to manage a car wash, so let me throw out a couple of solutions.
Tree sap and tar is the worst. The best thing I've ever seen for it is Citrus Magic air freshener. It's basically orange oils and it works beautifully for removing sap and tar. As for cleaning rims. Spree wheel magic or a similar product works great. The rims can handle the chemicals no problem, just apply it carefully to the rim portion, let it sit for a couple of minutes and spray it off.

Another tip for car washing: Either use a touchless cheapo system for a quick cleaning, or a thorough soft cloth full service wash for a complete one. Never use the cheap, unmanned, automatic washes with spinning brushes. Any car that has rust and goes to one of those, LEAVES the rust on the brushes, which then scratch the cars that follow it. A good soft cloth, manned wash will not allow rusty cars to enter and a touchless one doesn't have that problem, but doesn't do as good of a job.