Rear Brake Pads

Typical stealership ripoff, ignore them.

 

first, check them yourself to confirm thickness, rotor quality, and slide pin operation. there are plenty of brake threads here, it's not a difficult task, but requires attention to detail. all the best!

 

I've done the rear pad replacement on a regular 2010 Prius. It was premature, because I'd done an inspection previously, and messed up the rear caliper piston orientation, so the pads had been dragging for about 6 months. They were worn very unevenly, so I just opted to replace them. Assuming the v rear brakes are very similar, if not identical:

1. Chock the front wheels, release parking brake raise and support the rear of car and remove the wheels.
2. Disconnect and isolate the 12 volt battery negative cable, say by stuffing into a heavy/insulated glove. Lay the other glove over the hatch latch to block it it from latching, and lower the hatch onto it.
3. Remove the upper/lower caliper mounting bolts, pull off the caliper and suspend it from twine (or what have you) tied to suspension springs. With the parking brake cable attached it's more of a "pull it back and tie it off" operation.
4. Remove outer and inner pads/shims, disassemble and lay out in order on newspaper, to use for reference when assembling the new pads/shims. Remove anti-rattle clips hooked onto outer edges of pads, if present. They're thin-wire v-shaped springs.
5. Assemble new pads/shims to match. With each shim apply a sparing layer of molybdenum anti-seize compound (Permatex is one brand, a thick, silvery paste) uniformly to the contacting face.
6. Pull out the caliper mounting pins (one at a time, to avoid mix-up: they're sometimes different length), wipe the clean and relubricate with something like Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant (looks like vaseline, silicone gel). Apply a pea-sized dab uniformly, then do a second similar coat. Apply what's left on your finger to the boot. Run a thin blade screw driver with a small amount of Sil-Glyde around the joint of the boot and caliper mounting bracket, to loosen/free it, and rotate it a bit, make sure it's all lubed.
7. Reinstall the pins, going slow and screwing them to avoid scraping the lube off on the boot as much as possible. Coax the boot back onto the pin shoulder and ensure it's fully back in place, rotates/flexes normally.
8. Install pad/shim assemlies, and anti-rattle springs (if present).
9. Clean face of caliper piston, and the two caliper "fingers" opposite. Basically all the points of contact. Also wipe the piston boot clean gently, check for tears/damage.
10. Retract the piston by screwing it in (clockwise). There's a cube-shaped tool available to help with this, google: "disc brake piston tool". Screw it in pretty much as far as possible, ensure you end up with piston in an "X" shape (when viewing the caliper square-on), not "cross" shaped. You want to ensure the pin on back of inner pad will be inbetween the spokes on the X-pattern on face of caliper piston.
11. Install caliper, gently coaxing it onto the new pads/ships, install it's bolts and torque them.
12. Open driver's door and push brake pedal repeatedly, till it firms up. You can just reach in and use your hand to do this, probably safer than climbing in. You really want to seat the piston, lock it on the pads, ensure the cross spokes on caliper piston continue to straddle the inner pad pin. Do not apply parking brake at this time, it'll attempt to rotate the piston.
13. Reinstall wheels, spin them and verify they are spinning relatively freely (a modest amount of drag is ok, but they should be spinnable, a revolution or two), lower car, torque rear wheels, remove front wheel chocks.
14. Reconnect 12 volt negative cable, close hatch.
15. Take the car for a short test drive. Be very gentle on the brakes at first, especially the first few applications. It should be ok now, and ok to apply parking brake.

I'll atttach 3rd gen Prius Repair Manual instruction for brakes, it's hopefully similar, especially for torque values.

 

is that a cut and paste mendel, or do you take the time to type that all out every time for your grasshopper's?

 

Funny, I actually typed that mudder, lol.

 

At least we know you have it down cold and can repeat it .

 

Really well said, typed ML! TY.

That should be a sticky. I couldn't remember which way to turn the piston.

Quick question. I have not found anyone who has used a C-clamp to compress the piston like you would do the fronts. Is there a reason not to and that the rear specifically needs to be rotated in? (Have no idea where I put the fancy schmancy cube device)

 

I'm not sure if the v uses the same rear brakes as the Gen 3 liftback. The liftback has the parking brake mechanism combined with the rear brake calipers, using a threaded shaft, the pistons won't push straight back.

At one point I thought maybe the v used a different style brake, with a top-hat shaped rotor and tiny shoes inside for parking. If so, it might have a plain piston caliper.

But I see maybe the post was about a liftback, even though this is the v forum.

 

Yeah the Prius v rear brake is different, to best of my recollection. Maybe a mini-drum brake for parking brake?

 

I just did my pads and rotors (one had a big grove I it for some reason. There are mini drum brakes for parking brake and a regular piston so no caliper piston cube tool needed. I used a C-clamp to compress the piston down. Pretty straight forward job.

 

Anyone know the rear caliper bracket bolts torque for the V? They seemed a lot tighter than 42ftlb when I loosened them.

 

Where did the 42 flt/lb value come from, Toyota Repair Manual? Also, regardless of torque value, removal invariably needs more torque.

FWIW, I don't have any Prius v Repair Manual info. I do have 3rd gen Prius, but it's rear brakes are different.

 

-42 ftlb rear caliper bracket torque per Gen 3 Toyota service manual.
The V rearcrear is different from the regular Gen 3 as it doesn't have the ebrake going into it. Piston slides like the front caliper, making the job actually easier. Before removing the other side I stepped up the torque wrench on the bolts and didn't get movement until about 75 lbft while tightening them. Pads used: Advics AD1391 per Advics website. Their website only shows front pads for regular Gen 3 and they're not the same as the V. That's why I ask...