Recommended Maintenance

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Johnrdl, Nov 13, 2019.

  1. Johnrdl

    Johnrdl Junior Member

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    I have 2010 Toyota Prius with low mileage (23,569). Planning to do yearly oil change as well as recommendation from last service: brake fluid exchange, inverter coolant exchange, engine coolant exchange, trans axle service. Can someone explain what it all means? Is it really necessary? Purchased in January 2011 and is doing perfectly fine. No issues so wondering if truly necessary. I only have done oil changes yearly, rotated tires and replaced tires, replaced 12-volt battery, and the recall corrections. I would greatly appreciate any assistance or advice. Thanks.
     
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  2. tankyuong

    tankyuong Senior Member

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    I would change oil twice a year
     
  3. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I would get all the items you mentioned done, 10 years it's about time to change fluids.

    Only thing to worry about now is a hv battery failure that will eventually come up. Or you can spend a few hundred bucks on a reconditioning kit from hybrid automotive and rejuvenate that battery.
     
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  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Titanic Social Director

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    1. Brake fluid: yeah I would do this, or get it done. Do you have a quote? Through dealership it should not be much over $100. Toyota USA says nothing about changing brake fluid, while Toyota Canada recommends tri-yearly or 48K kms, whichever comes first. Not exactly unified???

    Dealership did ours first time, fall of 2013, in conjunction with a brake recall. Fall of 2016 I did it myself, using the non-Techstream method outlined in the Repair Manual (see attachement), and @NutzAboutBolts (link to his videos pinned at top of 3rd gen Maintenance Forum).

    About a week back, Fall of 2019, did it a second time, uneventful. Step 1 is always to put the car in invalid mode. See @NutzAboutBolts video and attachment.

    I use 2 pint bottles of Toyota DOT3 fluid (about $15 CDN in total). My equipment was:

    1. Largish syringe with clear tube extension and slim spigot, to baste out and replace most of the old fluid in reservoir. The spigot is good since there's a strainer basket in the reservoir that prevents a blunt tube from getting in too far.

    2. Two liter Kirkland Mayo jar with lid, with hole drilled in lid.

    3. Maybe 2 feet of clear tubing with bleed bolt connector pushed onto one end, and the other end pushed through hole in aforementioned Kirkland jar.

    4.. For opening the bleed bolts you need an 8mm and 10mm box wrenches, and it's also good to have ratchets and sockets in those sizes, to do the initial breaking loose.

    That's it. You could do this with the car on the ground, tires on, but it's much easier with the car raised and all wheels off. I do it in conjunction with snow tire swap, with the car on jack stands. Takes about an hour, and you need an assistant to push the brake pedal.

    Contrary to the aforementioned video, I followed the order recommended in the Repair manual. In a nutshell, that's start with front/right corner, and proceed counter-clockwise.

    2. Engine and Inverter coolant changes: Toyota USA recommends to change the engine coolant at 10 years or 100K miles, whichever comes first, and the inverter coolant at 15 year or 150K miles, etcetera. I see no reason to jump the gun on that. Through dealership it should not be much over $125 apiece. See attachments, and @NutzAboutBolts videos.

    3. Transaxle service: I gather that means transaxle fluid change? Yeah I would do that asap. And then you could forget about it for a goodly time. The first change is most important I think, and the sooner the better. I would recommend 1 year or 10k miles for that. FWIW, Toyota USA says nothing about that either. Through dealership it should not be much over $80~. See attachments, and @NutzAboutBolts videos.

    To DIY: you need four quarts of Toyota ATF WS (You'll likely need most but not quite all of it), and 2 washers, for the fill and drain bolts (they're identical). You raise and level the car, loosen the fill bolt (alway good to make sure that's doable, first), then remove the drain bolt and catch the old fluid with something suitable. Then reinstall the drain bolt with new washer, add new fluid till it starts coming back out (that is the correct level), then reinstall the fill bolt with new washer.

    My equipment was:

    1. Funnel with with 3 foot clear tubing extension (OD was about 15mm which fit ok)
    2. 10 mm allen-key style socket. (drain/fill bolts are socket-head cap screws with 10 mm hex recess)
    3. Torque wrench (3/8" size is good, the torque value is 29 ft/lbs)

    Note: Toyota recommends to only use Toyota ATF WS fluid, and only from freshly opened bottles.
     
    #4 Mendel Leisk, Nov 14, 2019
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2019
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