Red triangle and other red warning image?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by mercat68, Apr 13, 2019.

  1. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    If you have AAA Premier, you can have it towed all the way to home. (200 miles towing) With AAA Plus, you need to drive 30 miles. (100 miles towing) Regular AAA membership is only for 5 miles. Good luck.
     
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  2. rjparker

    rjparker Senior Member

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    I would reset the codes and drive it home. Stop and go traffic is harder on the hv battery, freeway will be fine.
     
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  3. mercat68

    mercat68 Active Member

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    Hmm, OK, thanks. I was planning the opposite (avoid highways), but mostly from the perspective that, if it dies, I'd rather not be on the highway when that happens.
     
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  4. rjparker

    rjparker Senior Member

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    The battery will stay charged better at highway speeds but will often discharge quickly in stop and go, sometimes even at long lights. But if you clear the codes and take it for a short five mile test, and nothing serious pops up, I would drive it home. I have seen these things run for months after the first battery code, so a three hour drive would be the way I would go, certainly on the freeway over side roads. I would want the codes cleared so you could more easily see anything new especially on the gas engine.
     
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  5. mercat68

    mercat68 Active Member

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    Good advice - thanks.
     
  6. mercat68

    mercat68 Active Member

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    Digging a bit more this morning, cam across this page:

    P3000 - Toyota Prius Hybrid Fault Code Diagnosis - Rennacs

    Which lists this info for the 123 suffix:

    P3000-123
    Abnormal signal response from the battery ECU, often associated with a high-voltage battery system malfunction.
    Possible causes include: HV battery system, Battery ECU

    Is this saying the ECU is/could be bad?
     
  7. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Is this saying the ECU is/could be bad?

    No. Fix block 10 and your POA80 and 3000 will go away.

    I guess it's not really 100% no. There could be some miniscule chance a block 10 module failed and the ecu has an internal failure at the same exact time. Anything is possible I suppose, but likely? No.
     
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  8. mercat68

    mercat68 Active Member

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    Great, thanks - was hoping that's the case.
     
  9. rjparker

    rjparker Senior Member

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    So did you get the car home?
     
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The ECUs talk to each other. The P3000 is a code from the HV ECU, and it just means "hey, the battery ECU sent me a heads-up about some problem back there." (That's what comes out in English as "abnormal signal" from the battery ECU, after some long journey from the Japanese. It doesn't mean "some signal from the ECU is abnormal", like the ECU is broken and making weird voltages, as much as "the battery ECU signaled me about something being abnormal".)
     
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  11. mercat68

    mercat68 Active Member

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    No, just went up to diagnose (and possibly fix, if it was something simple, like a bad 12V). Going back up probably next weekend with the wife to get it. Keep your fingers crossed for me ;)
     
  12. mercat68

    mercat68 Active Member

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    Got it - thanks for the explanation.
     
  13. Phildo

    Phildo Member

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    Considering that you have two Priuses it would be worth buying the Prolong equipment from Hybrid Automotive.

    The same discharger box covers 2004-2015 Prius, as well as 2012-2017 Prius V (ie you have one of each of those cars, so the same discharger can be used on both).

    For a charger, get the Camry one - it will work on all Priuses, but Camry Hybrids also. Sort of future proofing, in case you get a Camry Hybrid some day in the future.

    Of course, you are most welcome to get a Prius charger. I have both Camry Hybrid and Prius, so I bought a Camry charger, a Prius discharger and a Camry discharger (ie the discharger boxes are different).

    Get a wiring harness for each Prius.

    Charge/discharge cycle each hybrid battery twice each year.

    It might be that your daughter uses the charger to top up the hybrid battery once a month if the battery has a problem module. It might be a matter of getting the car to last until the next semester break, when more time can be spent rebuilding the hybrid battery.
     
  14. mercat68

    mercat68 Active Member

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    Thanks, but...I don't know anything about the Prolong equipment (or nothing beyond that it's some sort of device that helps maintain battery health in some way?). What is it?
     
  15. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Since one of your Prii is a Prime and used Li battery technology, the Prolong equipment is only good for your daughters Prius that is NiMH technology ;).

    But it is battery maintenance equipment as well as useful for rebuilding batteries :).

    Given this situation, you’ll want the Toaster kit or a new battery from Toyota (y).
     
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  16. mercat68

    mercat68 Active Member

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    Toaster kit is ordered, BTW...
     
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  17. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Sounds like a good plan;).

    Now for battery assembly fun:).

    Don’t forget to update us periodically with data and performance (y).
     
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  18. Phildo

    Phildo Member

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    He's got a Prius V as well. Then gen 2, gen 3 and V all use the same charger and discharger boxes.

    [​IMG]
     
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  19. mercat68

    mercat68 Active Member

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    UPDATE: Drove the car home yesterday from daughter’s school. No problems. I cleared all codes before leaving and neither red triangle or check engine reappeared, and car performed normally. I was monitoring during the drive with Dr. Prius, which initially showed block 10 as much lower than the others, then showed all to be about the same as the drive progressed. Hooking it back up to Techstream at home, it didn’t show block 10 as significantly lower than the others. But all that said, I did notice that the dash charge indicator would go from green to purple in less than a mile, so guessing maybe the long drive (almost all highway) might have temporarily rejuvenated block 10, but battery still shot? Anyway, I have the @2k1Toaster unit and am installing today, which leads me to a question (you out there @2k1Toaster ?):

    It’s recommended the three clip-on temp sensors go on top of the cells, rather than under, as original. But the instructions don’t specify how you reroute the wire to bring it up to the top (I’m assuming, you just fish it up in the space between cell 14 and the ECU-side end cap, but want to verify before I put this all back together). Anyone done this install on a Gen 2 who can tell me proper routing? Thanks.
     
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  20. priusb78

    priusb78 Member

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    Why should it be better to place the temp sensor on the upper side?

    From my point of view that makes no sense. In the Gen 2 the cooling air is blown in from the top of the pack and the heated air leaves from the bottom. So the sensors are placed correctly where the actual battery temp can be measured best.
     
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