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Red triangle, hybrid warning light after changing hybrid battery.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by LBJ94, Oct 12, 2020.

  1. LBJ94

    LBJ94 New Member

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    Location:
    Grenada MS
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    ----USA----
    Had loss of power with red triangle and hybrid warning light, ICE and battery cooling fan running continuously. VSC and ABS lights was on since i owned the car (20months).Took 12V battery to Autozone and it checked good. Radiator, coolant reservoir and inverter coolant reservoir are full. Good turbulence in inverter coolant reservoir. Had a friend with salvage yard offer a hybrid battery out of a wreck. I installed it and still have same warning lights/issues. NOTE- I used the battery assembly computer (ECU) off my old hybrid battery at the salvage yard owners recommendation. Checked 12V battery again myself car running=14.22 after overnight set=12.65 Took car to salvage yard and used their scanner and got a P3000 code. After clearing the code the battery SOC showed full and the ICE shut off. After driving for about 5 minutes same lights back on and battery cooling fan running continuously. The battery monitor SOC goes from 1-2 purple bars to 4-5 blue bars and the little turtle looking car on the display is green maybe 50% of the time while driving. Everything on car seems to be working normal but doesn't accelerate like it always has. Thanks in advance for any help.
     
    #1 LBJ94, Oct 12, 2020
  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    II
    the battery out of the wreck is probably equally bad as your old battery. You can check for codes with a better code reader that's capable of reading Prius codes.
     
    #2 JC91006, Oct 13, 2020
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  3. LBJ94

    LBJ94 New Member

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    ----USA----
    Thanks for your input, i might try checking the voltage of individual cells on my old battery since it's already out of the car.
     
    #3 LBJ94, Oct 13, 2020
  4. LBJ94

    LBJ94 New Member

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    2007 Prius
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    ----USA----
    I checked each of the 28 cells individually on my old battery that I took out of car 14 days ago. Battery has been setting in dry storage at ambient temperature. I checked them starting on the drivers side of car. #1=7.43 #2=7.56 #3=7.64 #4=7.62 #5=7.63 #6=7.52 #7=7.63 #8=7.61 #9=7.61 #10=7.63 #11=7.37 #12=6.37 #13=7.64 #14=7.65 #15=7.59 #16=7.51 #17=7.62 #18=7.52 #19=7.62 #20=7.62 #21=7.48 #22=7.64 #23=7.46 #24=7.64 #25=7.62 #26=7.55 #27=7.62 #28=7.54.
    I can clearly see #12 cell is bad but wanted your guys/gals thoughts on the cells that range from 7.37-7.48. before I ordered any cells.
    Thanks for any and all input.
     
    #4 LBJ94, Oct 13, 2020
  5. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Since you're not going to charge and balance these modules, you should replace the modules under 7.5v. But keep in mind, buying used modules, you could end up with modules worse than the ones in your car.
     
    #5 JC91006, Oct 13, 2020
  6. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    There are 3 methods to DIY "repair" of the HV battery. One is to just replace the failed module(s) and cross your fingers. The problem with this is that the most common result is the next weakest module fails within a few days/ weeks/ months. Here the term is "whack a mole". Occasionally it works OK but don't bet on it. Yes the module with 1V difference has a shorted cell, but otherwise you can't really tell what the state of charge or capacity of any module is by checking the static voltage.

    Next is to use multiple RC/ hobby chargers to cycle each module several times from "empty" to "full", each time increasing the voltage limits to try and recover lost capacity. This can take many weeks (the less $$ you spend on equipment- the longer it takes) and requires the modules to be clamped together as an assembly with proper cooling the whole time. You need good notes for each step to record the discharge capacities of each module and it helps to load test each module as well. Also the "preferred" chargers are no longer readily available. There is a HUGE thread covering this- Gen II Prius Individual Battery Module Replacement | PriusChat

    Last method is to replace the failed modules then deep cycle the entire pack using the Prolong charger/discharger system. Search the forum for this- costs $$ but does the job under a week.
     
    #6 mr_guy_mann, Oct 14, 2020
  7. LBJ94

    LBJ94 New Member

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    ----USA----
    Thanks again for all the help. I will let Y'all know what I decide to do and how it turns out. Thanks again.
     
    #7 LBJ94, Oct 14, 2020
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