Red triangle troubleshooting

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by JJP, Nov 30, 2019.

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  1. JJP

    JJP New Member

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    Hello, This is my first Prius I'm familiar with older toyota vehicles. I just bought this prius with 244,xxx miles off a good friends of mine. The car was cruising on the highway then all power shut off. Just the blinkers, headlights worked. And they said there was a strong smell of OZONE (like a copy machine for reference) and electrical burn. They googled reseting the Computer by disconnecting the 12v battery for a minute so they did and nothing changed. When I got there to help them I did smell something electric burned faint sell but there, no burnt wires visible.I checked every fuse until AM2 15amp fuse came out burt. I replaced that fuse and power came back on when pushing the start button BUT with the red triangle lit along with almost all other warning lights, including brake light and a little red car icon with exclamation sign on the LCD monitor and the car does not move or engine start. The High voltage battery shows 2/3 bars full on the energy display.

    I connected an OBD2 wifi and DASHCOMMAND APP on my IPAD. I goes into the diagnostic and reads "no codes present" and 3 out of the six monitors are ready. I did a clear codes command and right after the word "problem" was displayed briefly on the cars navigation display. clear it again and it displayed it again mean while the red trinagle and warning lights remained on.

    I tried to put the car in diagnose/inspection mode (the thing with pushing the gas pedal twice and neutral, gas pedal twice, ect.) but it did not start the engine or anything after the last push of the start button in the procedure it turned off like normal. I tried it five times and same result.

    I disconnected the high voltage battery orange plug and 12v battery and let it sit for a week then came back and reconnected things and same condition red triangle no movement.

    I just happened to have an an extra inverter cooling pump, I unplugged the old one just from the electrical plug and tried to start it same condition. I plugged in the wire connector to the spare pump and tried top start the car, the spare pump spun but same red triangle no movement condition. I left the old pump disconnected and hooked up the OB2 ipad app to see if I would get a code for it being completely disconnected but no codes found.

    What would be the next thing to troubleshoot? Is there a better app to diagnose the hybrid system? I've seen a lot of prius cars at the local self serve junk yards so parts are there but what is the part it needs?
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    tech stream is the best prius diag tool. $25. on amazon, and you need a compatible laptop.

    you can learn more searching here for it.
     
  3. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Verify this (especially step 3):

    Safety Disconnect Installation Procedure.jpg
     
  4. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Do not connect any test equipment to the OBD port.

    If you do not have techstream, disconnect the battery for one minute and then reconnect it.

    Place your foot on the brake and press the power button ONE time. Keep your foot on the brake and press the power button one more time.

    What does the dash now show?
     
  5. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    1. throw away the old pump cause it's shorting out.
    2. replace and properly install the new pump with coolant (so it doesn't just spin without fluid)
    3. replace the AM2 fuse if it's blown again.
    4. make sure the 12v battery is good and not drained
    5. make the sure hv battery interlock is locked into place (look at the above post for reference)
    6. Your car should start......
     
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  6. JJP

    JJP New Member

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    @TMR-JWAP Orange lever verified on properly, High voltage battery shows up in the energy display with 6 bars of energy. I don't have techstream, I'm not familiar with it but will re-search it. Which battery should I disconnect for one minute the big hybrid battery or the little 12v battery?

    @JC91006 what makes you think the old pump is shorted? the AM2 fuse is stable and only blew once at the loss of power on the freeway it has not blown again since. Yes the orange HV battery is connected properly and battery shows up in the energy display with 6 bars of energy.

    The "BRAKE" dash light also stays lit, but the parking brake is not engaged and it is at the full mark on the master cylinder, the only time I've seen that light on toyotas is when the parking brake is engaged or it is very low on brake fluid.
     
  7. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The reason AM2 fuse is blown is because the pump shorted (the smell you described). It's a common problem. If you replaced the fuse without replacing the pump, it'll just blow again
     
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  8. JJP

    JJP New Member

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    That's the thing I did in fact replace the fuse the first time and has NOT blown again, even with the pump connected or disconnected. I did see that it's a common problem and all of those people did keep blowing the fuse but mine did not. I can't smell the burt smell any more it has been a week. I'll swtich out the pump on monday and find out for sure, I'd be more confident (and happy) that it was the inverter pump if it kept blowing the AM2 fuse but it does not.

    I also have a spare connector to the Inverter pump I could do a test of applying 12 volts directly and listen to in spin with a mechanics stethoscope could I not? or watch it smoke? or be completely dead?
     
    #8 JJP, Nov 30, 2019
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2019
  9. JJP

    JJP New Member

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    OK I disconnected the 12v battery for one minute.
    Placed my foot on the brake and pressed the power button ONE time>(dash lights came on with RED triangle see uploaded file). kept my foot on the brake and pushed the power button one more time and the dash turned off.
     

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  10. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    So is your car able to start? If it does not start, make sure you check the following.

    1. Did you load test the 12v or replace the battery?
    2. Disconnect the inverter pump and replace the AM2 fuse again.
    3. Check for other blown fuses.

    If everything checks out, then start the car. Your comment about the car dash going out can be a symptom of a bad combination meter or you have a dead 12v battery
     
  11. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Just leave the pump disconnected to make sure it can't make the AM2 blow again. If it does blow again, then you know it's from something other than the ICWP, but that's highly unlikely. This will have no effect on whether the car will get to ready condition or not. Just make sure to replace it before driving the car. The 2005 I recently purchased had a bad ICWP that didn't blow the AM2 fuse, but had melted the bottom of the pump. Just replace it,

    Are you certain the safety disconnect in the HV battery is installed properly per post #3? Your dash lights are similar to what would be seen if the safety interlock was not being seen.

    Typically, any time the 12v is disconnected, the first time the power button is pressed, the dash will light up just like yours (except the RTOD will not be lit, unless the HV battery interlock is not being seen). The second press causes all the warning lights to clear and the car goes ready. If the RTOD is lit due to the interlock not being seen, the car will turn off instead of just clearing the lights and going to READY.

    I just simulated this scenario on my 2007. This is exactly what is happening. Verify your safety disconnect. If that isn't the problem, I would say it would definitely be in your best interest to get techstream, or find someone you know who has it and could help you. It would make short work out of this.
     
    #11 TMR-JWAP, Dec 1, 2019
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2019
  12. JJP

    JJP New Member

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    Thank you for going to the trouble of replicating that scenario. I will take pics of the safety disconnect in the morning. In a you tube video they had the pruis electrical system on a peg board and they mentioned that the orange disconnect had a non-replaceable fuse in it if it blew the whole disconnect plug thing had to be replaced. I should be able to test the safety disconnect out of the battery for continuity right?

    I will also swap out the inverter pump.
     
  13. JJP

    JJP New Member

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    @TMR-JWAP I took off some of the battery shielding to get a good picture of the safety disconnect. See upload.
    Yes I'm getting tech stream and waiting for the mini VCI connector in the mail.
     

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    #13 JJP, Dec 2, 2019
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2019
  14. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    hard to tell, but you moght have missed step 3 'slide it down'
     
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  15. JJP

    JJP New Member

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    @bisco you have a keen eye, I missed step three. I did step 3 'slide it down' and still red triangle but the I re-disconnected the 12v battery for a minute like @TMR-JWAP described and the system re-set and it started. Thanks for everyone's help! there is so much I don't know about this prius.
     
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  16. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    After engaging the safety interlock, it would take 3 on/off cycles to clear the red triangle and the fault code would go into "historical" status. Disconnecting the battery accomplishes the same thing and totally clears the fault memory.

    Glad to hear everything is up and running again.

    (y)(y)(y)(y)
     
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