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replace all four brakes pads and rotors

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by jmann, May 29, 2021.

  1. jmann

    jmann Member

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    Could someone point me to what they think are the best write-ups of replacing brakes pads and rotors on a gen3 prius?. I drive a 2012. I'm just going to do it myself. I can handle this one. I am sick of auto shops quoting me 1000 for $150 of parts and an hour of labor.

    Also, what are the torque numbers and supply list for bolts and lug sizes and strange shaped tools I mad need to get bolts out?
     
  2. burebista

    burebista Active Member

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    All you need to know. :)
     
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  3. jmann

    jmann Member

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  4. jmann

    jmann Member

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    what is the bolt size for the holes used to remove a rusted stuck rotor?
     
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Maybe M8x1.25? Going from memory…

    yup:

     
    #5 Mendel Leisk, May 30, 2021
    Last edited: May 30, 2021
  6. sLick415

    sLick415 Member

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    Don't forget the piston tool for the rears.
     
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  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    When turning the rear piston (typically screwing it in to accommodate new pads) it is PARAMOUNT that the 4-spoke pattern on it’s face end up oriented thus: “X”. This allows the stubby pin on pad backing plate to fall between the spokes.

    Then the pad receives uniform pressure, and prevents the piston from rotating when parking brake is applied.

    Assemble everything thus, without touching the parking brake pedal.

    Push brake pedal (NOT parking brake) several times, to “seat” everything.

    reconnect 12 volt battery neg cable. (Always safest to disconnect before doing any disassemble)

    take short drive, go easy on brakes.

    return home, apply/release parking release parking brake, chock front wheel, and raise rear of car.

    verify rear wheels spin semi-freely. If they drag excessively check that pistons haven’t rotated.

    example of normal rear wheel spin:

     
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  8. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Spray with rust penatrent as soon as you get the wheel off. That will help alot.
    And you can smack the face of the rotor, and that will help free up the rust.

     
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    If using rust penetrant try to avoid the the pad contact zone, and/or clean VERY thoroughly with brake cleaner before reinstall of the pads and caliper.

    I’ve just relied on the M8’s, turning each a bit, back and forth till the rotor pops off. But tapping while doing this might help, make it break loose sooner, and less dramatically.

    note: the threaded holes can be pretty rusted up; you may need to partially thread in the bolts, back them out, blow out the rust, repeat, till you finally get them through. Then proceed with the screw-jacking.
     
  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Here’s third gen brake excerpt, from repair manual, has torque values and what not, also notes my aforementioned rear calliper piston orientation.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Since he is replacing the rotors and pads..... it won't matter if the old pads get anything on them.

    Us a metal wire brush and clean off the hub. Then put some anti-sieze on all the places the rotor
    touches the hub. Use sparingly, you don't need alot. It will make it come off easily the next time.
     
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  12. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    A sparing amount of anti-seize is also good on the raised front of the rotor, where the wheel studs protrude out: keeps the wheel rims from gluing on.

    I do that whenever the wheels are off, and I can’t remember the last time I had them stick. What’s I’d do when they stuck was:

    With the car raised enough the wheel is just clear, and a single lug nut loosely installed at 12 o’clock, set a timber block against backside of tire, reach under with a sledge hammer (keep your torso clear of the underside though) and give the block a good wack. If it doesn’t brake loose hit it a second time, harder.
     
  13. Mdv55

    Mdv55 Active Member

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    $150 for all 4 wheels? You'll be doing the job again soon enough!
     
  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    $150’s what the original poster tossed out, for parts only.

    the rotors are likely fine (can be checked against specs in the excerpt I posted just up the page. Toyota pads and shims for all 4, yeah that’s likely around $150 USD.

    if this is her first go round doing Prius brakes, hope she heeds the 12 volt disconnect and rear brake piston orientation tips I’ve posted. It’s not THAT hard, but it can go off the rails without some prep.
     
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  15. Mdv55

    Mdv55 Active Member

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    Post title asked about pads and rotors.

    I just did all 4 wheels with decent Advanced Auto stuff, which is the cheapest I'm willing to go for something like brakes. Price tag was $300 and change.
     
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  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yeah I just can’t resist a chance to chest-beat, about the knee-jerk replacement of (perfectly good) rotors.
     
  17. Mdv55

    Mdv55 Active Member

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    8-9 years old and probably a 100k on them? I'd rather put new ones on even if the old ones are still in "spec".

    In my case, they were pretty trashed and still under 3 years old but had plenty of mileage on them. Wish I caught the sticking caliper earlier; I would have gotten more life out of that set for sure.
     
  18. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Unless you feel a pulsing sensation when stopping, or going VERY slowly with very lightly
    touching the brake pedal, the rotors are fine.
    Unless you see a lip on the outer edge, or they are rusted and pitted...
    You can get the pads and any needed parts from Toyota for the same or within a few dollars
    than anyone else sells. So WHY buy cheaper pads???
     
  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Dial gauge with magnetic base, and micrometer, with the repair manual spec’s (excerpt posted above), you can see where you are. Or just keep postulating.

    this thread seems to be trailing off, OP gone??

    I’m hitting “unwatch this thread”.
     
  20. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Well, for items where the "spec" is to be "at least yea thick" and "flat" and that kind of covers the things that matter ... if they meet that spec, they'll do what they're there for.