Replaced accumulator can not air bleed at all.....

Can’t be that bad. Give them a call; see what you’re looking at?

 

What does the dealer know that we don't come on now something is definitely up.

 

We can't manually bleed because when you pump the brakes or whatever nothing will happen You've got to be able to open those solenoids and valves and that block thing you just replaced and that's what the computer does so if it's telling you to check the vehicle condition there must be a whole lot of prerequisites that have to be met before the bleed procedure can proceed so maybe the other part of the brake system is bad what is that the accumulator and the pump or the part you didn't replace apparently a lot of people replace both of these things because they don't know how to diagnose them and separate them in the diagnosis and to some people it's just easier to pay the $1,580 bucks for the two pieces replace them you've replaced them the computer part and the I guess pump part and that pretty much as you completely covered on the brakes except for what goes on at each wheel

 

I'm about to start the same procedure in a woman's 2010 JBL solar roof card If anything can go wrong it will be with this car believe me The lights have been on for a couple of weeks now the brakes don't seem to be any different very similar to my '09 but apparently on the generation 3 they just go out very quickly.

 

Hello Scott, were you able to find a solution to your problem? I am experiencing the same exact thing. Replaced the abs actuator and when trying to do the air bleeding process on my Otofix D1 Pro (Autel) its giving me the same error, Air Bleeding Has Failed. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

Is this a used part also that you're trying to bleed? I think there's some sensor that has to be able to be reset if you can get it to bleed so I guess that wouldn't be part of the problem because you'd have to complete air bleeding first to re-zero the sensor I don't know what the name of it is. It would be interesting to see in the case of the generation 3 what happens if you crack the bleed fitting of the right rear wheel Do you see fluid dripping Yes or no? If so move a little glass right next to the rear wheel where the drop that's coming out is splitting the edge of the rim of the tire and the rubber of the wheel and you'll catch most of that you'll watch it dropping to the glass bleeding by gravity this method will take hours but it can work so each wheel 20 minutes zerk fitting open glass catching there's no sucking no pumping that time goes away you're checking the reservoir in the front of the car never letting it go below half just because close that wheel move to the left rear repeat the process just because the drips are indicating that fluid is moving through the system and as the reservoir goes down air that's in the system in this part of the system will be pushed out of that zerk fitting that you have open sometimes if you want to lay there and watch you will see the air bubbles manifest themselves around the edge of the hole of zerk fitting. Most people do not want to be watching this now move to the right front Do you have the same drip action going when you crack that fitting do the same there 20 minutes watch the reservoir and then lastly the driver side front Make sure everything is closed and tight what do you have now

 

Yeah its a used abs module I’m unable to do the air bleeding procedure. I don’t think manual bleeding will help since it has to bleed in the actual module itself, and seals are closed when doing The manual bleed.

 

I really didn't care what the manual said this is why I did this on my car to see what would happen I understand the manual and the valves closed and all this and that there Cool My question was if you crack the bleeder screw on the right rear wheel do you start seeing brake fluid dripping out of that fitting If yes fill the reservoir put a glass underwear that drip is and half fill that glass while that's happening you should proportionately see the reservoir go down I did this to my car it's the same as yours. I realize it's not supposed to work and all of this in that there but it got me out of a jam very quickly so Lottie da guess for me. You won't know till you go out with an 8 mm wrench and crack the fitting but oh well. I have a gen 3 right now that text stream can't even connect to and there's nothing wrong with the car every other scan tool I own connects right up with it so on and so forth It's not capable the other scanners aren't capable enough of reading all the Toyota computers but at least it connects and if I hit the clear code button twice on my $30 scanner It makes my car reboot and start and ready whereas text stream can't even connect to this car go figure It's a dealer text stream computer too.

 

how do you like Otofix D1 use specific for hybrid Toyota?

 

Does not look like the D1 pro will bleed the brakes so I'm sure a D1 not pro will not bleed the brakes so between 4:00 and $700 and not being able to bleed the brakes would not be an option for me You can buy a dealer CF-13 tough book with unlimited use of tech on it for about 400 bucks online so there's always that and that will have the cable with it the red one USB to OBD2 plug.