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Replaced driver side rear wheel bearing

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Main Forum' started by GustoGuy, Apr 23, 2021.

  1. GustoGuy

    GustoGuy Member

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    I put in a new Timken rear wheel bearing and hub assembly in my 2010 Prius tonight 20210422_195426.jpg 20210422_194747.jpg . I used some bolts and washers to pop the old bearing out. On a scale of 1 to 10 this is an 8 since the old hub sort of rust welds itself to the rear axle. Here is some pictures
     

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    #1 GustoGuy, Apr 23, 2021
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  2. Mdv55

    Mdv55 Active Member

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    That's job is no fun on a Prius. I'm going to buy an air hammer when I need to do the rears. The fronts put up a large fight and I'm done playing around.
     
    #2 Mdv55, Apr 23, 2021
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Looking at the pics: you hold the bolt head, while wrenching the intermediate nut towards the bolt head? Build up compression in all bolts thus, then maybe tap the edge of bearing with a hammer to (hopefully) break the bond between wheel bearing and solid rear axle mount? Then repeat, till it finally breaks free?

    The bearing held together, came out in one piece?

    I believe it’s a really good idea to disconnect speed sensor first?

    Our 2010 touring (CDN) is very similar model, same colour too. :)
     
    #3 Mendel Leisk, Apr 23, 2021
  4. GustoGuy

    GustoGuy Member

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    Yes. Speed sensor was already disconnected. The sensor is attached with two tiny wires and it would have been torn out if not removed. I was also periodically hitting with 4lb sledgehammer too.
     
    #4 GustoGuy, Apr 23, 2021
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  5. GustoGuy

    GustoGuy Member

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    Luckily it came out in one piece. I also sprayed seafoam deep creep on it too to help dissolve the rust and break it free.
     
    #5 GustoGuy, Apr 23, 2021
  6. GustoGuy

    GustoGuy Member

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    Are the fronts tougher than the rears? I heard you need to buy a special 32 point large socket to remove the compression nut.
     
    #6 GustoGuy, Apr 23, 2021
  7. Mdv55

    Mdv55 Active Member

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    I haven't done the rears yet, but they look to have the same issue with corrosion in the knuckle. The saving grace is if you get really stuck you can take the whole knuckle off and the bearing pressed out.

    I used a standard 32mm socket, it was either 6 point or 12 point. I didn't buy anything special.
     

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    #7 Mdv55, Apr 23, 2021
  8. GustoGuy

    GustoGuy Member

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    After test driving it I noticed that the front passenger bearing seems to have a bit of a drone while driving. I may just pay to have a garage do it. I hate putting in a ton of money into fixing something that I can fix myself. I decided to spend $207.99 with tax for the Timken bearing since most garages used the cheap Duralast brand which is only half the price of the Timken brand. This is why I refuse to use Duralast. Last year in January a 2 month old Duralast bearing hub assembly broke free and locked up my rear wheel. Thankfully I was driving inside a city at only 30 mph. If I would have been on the highway at 60+mph it could have lead to an accident 20200201_073421.jpg
     
    #8 GustoGuy, Apr 23, 2021
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2021
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  9. Mdv55

    Mdv55 Active Member

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    If you want a garage to do it you can always spec what bearing you want. They'll just upcharge you accordingly. Or find one that will let you bring in the part.

    The other option is to just take the whole knuckle off and bring it to shop to have the old bearing pressed out.
     
    #9 Mdv55, Apr 23, 2021
  10. GustoGuy

    GustoGuy Member

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    The garage replaced it under warranty with another Duralast and 3 months later the ABS light was on. The internal speed sensor failed. They finally fixed by putting in a Moog hub assembly and it been working good ever since.
     
    #10 GustoGuy, Apr 23, 2021
  11. AzusaPrius

    AzusaPrius Senior Member

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    #11 AzusaPrius, Apr 23, 2021
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