Replaced the Inverter coolant pump....

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by EbonBetta, Aug 1, 2018.

  1. EbonBetta

    EbonBetta Junior Member

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    Ok, I got the new part from amazon yesterday. This morning I made 2 clamps with a foot of 1/2 schedule 40 pvc and 4 1/4 x 3 bolts and assorted washers. Then I spent over an hour cutting off the hose clamps. The were so tight I could not remove them and I used new ones that screw to tighten. The clams for pinching the hose worked great and I spilt very little fluid. Connected the new pump, tightened it down reconnected the wiring to it and reconnected the battery. Put the key in and turn it on so I could get a ready message. Looked in the resivour and I have nice looking action going on. I was able to open 1 bleeder valve and tried that a bit need to get the right size wrench and get the other one open.Still need to put the bolts in on the bottom of the bumper but want to recheck all my lights and stuff first. All all in all a real pain to do but better than what the shop will charge me and I do not have.
     
    Brian in Tucson and davecook89t like this.
  2. EbonBetta

    EbonBetta Junior Member

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    ok so I closed the hood and drove the car about a half mile. Suddenly I get a warning beep. What now. Message on display says add fuel. .
    Scared me thinking there was a problem. will get gas and check oil and recheck level. I think I have it over filled so Ill take some out.
     
  3. Brian in Tucson

    Brian in Tucson Active Member

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    The bleeder on the drivers side is the only one you need to open, the other one is a sucker (it sucks in coolant.) If you didn't spill much coolant probably you won't need to bleed the system, just top up the reservoir.

    Nice that you were able to get it fixed.
     
  4. EbonBetta

    EbonBetta Junior Member

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    So I need to get a wrench and try to open the other bleeder the one towards the drivers side you are saying
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Well, there could be air in both places ... that's why they included two bleed valves. But it's true that, when the pump is running, one of those valves (the one nearer the center of the car) is on the suction side of the pump, so it's counterproductive to try opening that one while the pump is running, because it will just suck air in and take you back to square one.

    That's why the Toyota manual never has you open either valve with the pump running. It tells you to go start the pump, then stop the pump, then open the valves, let any bubbles out, close the valves, start the pump, stop the pump, etc., etc. But that's really tedious.

    It turns out the suction on the suction side is no more than about ten inches of water when the pump is running, so if you arrange for more than ten inches of suction outward from that valve (say, by attaching a coolant filled tube to it hanging more than ten inches down as a siphon into a jug on the ground), you can just leave the pump running and open the valves, and see your bubbles cruising out from both of them. Of course you have to watch the reservoir level, because you only have one hose returning fluid into it, while the other one is going to the jug on the ground.

    As I mentioned in this older post, I found it helpful to first take both bleed valves all the way out and add a non-hardening sealer (blue Hylomar was what I used) on the threads, and put them back. That stops the positive-pressure valve from oozing coolant out via the threads and making a mess. More importantly, it stops the negative-pressure valve oozing air in via the threads.

    -Chap
     
  6. EbonBetta

    EbonBetta Junior Member

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    buy any chance do you know whaT size the wrench for them is ?
    My wrench are not complete and I have so much stuff in so msany places its hard to find what I need all the time.
     
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I don't have my Gen 1 any more to go check, but from memory, I'll go out on a limb and say 10 mm. It's not a bad bet for a lot of things on the car.

    -Chap
     
  8. EbonBetta

    EbonBetta Junior Member

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    It could be but i do not have a 10 mm deep socket and the reg. socket would not go on far enough to do it, I cheated and used channel locks and got the one but the other was a no go.. guess in the am I will try napa. Thanks,.
     
  9. Brian in Tucson

    Brian in Tucson Active Member

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    A good opportunity to go buy tools. Most bleeders like that are 10mm. Might be 8mm, tho. Yesterday I bought a new harbor freight 1/4" drive metric deep wall set. Everything up to 14mm. Bought the new kit because I lost the 10mm under my jet ski motor. And that's a dark, greasy hole I don't feel like exploring. My 1/4in drive set is the one I use the most. It doesn't have a lot of leverage so fasteners don't get broke or stripped. And I can chuck it into my Hitachi cordless impact driver.
     
    #9 Brian in Tucson, Aug 2, 2018
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2018
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