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Replacing calipers

Discussion in 'Prius v Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by DHurt, Jan 4, 2020.

  1. DHurt

    DHurt Junior Member

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    I'm about to order new calipers and flexible hoses for the rear of my 2012. The pads and rotors look good. Is there anything else I should replace while I'm in there just for good measure?

    Longer story: I bought this Minnesota only car last summer with 90k miles on it from a Toyota dealer that said they had to do some brake work to get it ready for resale. (I think they just replaced pads and rotors.) A few months ago I started hearing some squealing first thing in the morning when I pulled out of the garage and it would go away after 50 feet or so. I did some reading here and learned that I could shift the car in neutral under 40mph and use the brakes only to test them. That caused the rear brakes to engage and start dragging. I removed the rear right wheel to inspect and saw the piston boot was tore and the visible portion of the piston was rusted pretty bad. I thought about ordering a rebuild kit but the rust made me just want to replace it. I used a C clamp to compress the piston and a test drive confirmed that was the issue. I figured I would do both sides because the other one can't be that far behind.

    Does anyone have any experience with the parts sold by McGeorge Toyota? They have great prices so unless someone says they sell junkyard takeoffs I think I'll order from there.

    Thanks!
     
  2. dig4dirt

    dig4dirt MoonGlow

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    They should be brand new OEM parts they sell, not used.
    I dont have experience with them. Others here have.

    Make sure to get the correct part number for your vehicle.
     
  3. DHurt

    DHurt Junior Member

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    Will do, thank you.

    If it was your car would you replace anything else while you’re at it?
     
  4. dig4dirt

    dig4dirt MoonGlow

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    Well I did replace my rusty rear caliper pins.
    Slick em with some fresh sIi glide grease
    Mine were rusty pretty bad .

    Might as well do a lube too on the contact points of the pads and shims.

    If the pads and rotors are newer then that should be good for the rear brakes.
     
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Do they advertise calipers for sale? I'm not seeing them; any links?

    It may be what Amayama refers to as a "Prius A", some info on this page:

    Buy rear disc brake caliper & dust cover for Toyota Prius a XW40 (05.2011 - 10.2014) - Amayama

    Have you talked to local dealerships? I would ask for parts price, and installed.
     
  6. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    I bought our old 2010 from McGeorge in 2009:).

    Good folks in Richmond, VA;).

    I’d buy parts from them or Olathe Toyota in Kansas(y).
     
  7. jzchen

    jzchen Newbie!

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    McGeorge shows them for 1/3 the price as amayama! Yikes! What's happening???



    moto g(7) power ?
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Shipping?

    Amayama's just another data point.
     
  9. DHurt

    DHurt Junior Member

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    Mendel Leisk and dig4dirt like this.
  10. jzchen

    jzchen Newbie!

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    I apologize up front, as it wasn’t part of your question. I would buy them from AutoZone.
     
  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    $99 for caliper is really good, bizarrely good. Caliper mounting bracket alone is $76, same site.
     
  12. DHurt

    DHurt Junior Member

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    Order placed, I’ll see what happens
     
  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Good find at McGeorge. I would not buy them from AutoZone, and there's a story about why. (Disclaimer: the story's not about AutoZone specifically; the caliper in question came from a similar, widespread, discount auto parts chain.)
     
  14. DHurt

    DHurt Junior Member

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    A lesson I learned the hard way is you get what you pay for, and I figured since I'm saving myself on labor cost I can spring for OEM parts.

    Does anyone know what size tube I need to connect to the bleeder screws? 1/4 or 3/8"?
     
  15. DHurt

    DHurt Junior Member

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    I know! If I had the spare cash I would buy a few more parts and install them when I had the time.
     
  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I used a bleeder valve coupler that came with my Mighty Vac kit. Those couplers are like a little ball joint, and accordingly stay on, are really the right thing to use. One size worked for the fronts and rears. You need 10 and 8 mm wrenches to loosen the valves. I found it best to slightly loosen them first with a ratchet wrench and socket, just to "break the ice".

    If you are going to go cheap, just pop the covers off the bleed valves, try various hose sizes. But really, getting the proper coupler is the way to go. I used the one that came with my Mighty Vac.

    Have you watched @NutzAboutBolts video on brake fluid change, pinned in third gen maintenance forum.

    I more or less followed that, lots of good tips. Split screen demo of the front brake technique in particular. And how to get into Invalid Mode, without Techstream.

    I used no vacuum source (except for syriinge to baste out the reservoir at the outset), just a big jar with lid, hole drilled in lid, about 2 foot of tube and aforementioned coupler. For the reservoir baste out, a largish syringe, short section of tube, and a thin spigot at the tip: there's a basket in the reservoir with just a narrow slit: you need something skinny.

    Get it in invalid mode at the outset, then baste, and don't overdo it, leave a little.

    My wife pushed the pedal, took about an hour all told, and I used 2 pints of Toyota DOT3 brake fluid.

    I went in the Repair Manual proscribed order (contrary to @NutzAboutBolts , not sure if it mattered): start at front right corner, then go counterclockwise around the rest.

    I've done this a couple of times now. Second time I was struggling with Invalid Mode. Doing everything, wouldn't take. Then watching the video again, and reading the Repair Manual: the car has to have parking brake applied, or it won't take. Even though it's up in the air, all four wheels off, lol.

    Note, you could do this with the car on ground, wheels on, but it's a lot more convenient, to have it all on jackstands and wheels off.

    I use alternate jack stand positions: if you're interested I can post a pic.
     
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  17. DHurt

    DHurt Junior Member

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    I'm only looking to bleed the air out of the lines after I replace the rear calipers and hoses. My car will go in for it's 100k mile service soon and I'll have them flush the brake fluid at that time. I watched the video and plan on using his technique, my wife gave me an Wth look when I showed her what it takes to go into the invalid mode :)
     
  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    How about the "you want me to sit in that car, that's up in the air, with no wheels" look? :whistle:

    There's torque values and install info in attached:
     

    Attached Files:

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  19. DHurt

    DHurt Junior Member

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    I'll give her credit - she's an old hand at helping me with our cars. She has even helped with swapping engines and transmissions.

    Thank you for the instructions!
     
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  20. jzchen

    jzchen Newbie!

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    I've had my fair share of having to replace DuraLast parts somewhat early in their supposedly lifetime life-span. I can't argue with that. What I do get are free replacements when that happens.

    I do order them from them, and hence why I say so. They sent me an email saying I'd get a $25 credit to my rewards account and I caved in.

    These are for converting the rear iQ drums to disc brakes.
    Screenshot_20200108-105525~2.jpg

    moto g(7) power ?