Replacing entire axle vs. replacing boot only? (2005)

I'm not sure about the phenomenal Toyota drive axles I've replaced many on many different models I don't think a Prius front drive axle is much different from a Corolla or a Yaris as phenomenal as they may be at 100 and something thousand miles they start to get a little old and a little slop starts to build up when the boot cracks and sand and road debris can get in that crack where starts to take place pretty quickly generally I buy rebuilt drive axles that's the shaft in between the two joints with two new joints and two new boots on that shaft about 69 to $89 a pop they rebuild them right here at shops where I live the joints can come from many different manufacturers generally big CV joint manufacturers not from Amazon they're in stock at the drive axle shop in most every town You're correct most places will not just replace a boot because they don't know how long that boots been sitting open and right after they put it on and then the joint fails you're going to be screaming you want your money back and you want to be satisfied so they're going to make sure you get satisfied before you get out of the car and close the door well. That's why those policies are in place I don't know that Toyota makes any kind of phenomenal CV joints I can't say that to be a fact CV joints are pretty simple parts as parts go most of them should be pretty phenomenal by now they've been used for 50 years almost in the industry if not longer. The air conditioning coil or core cleaning is probably simply because the cabin air filter has been left its own demise and now pieces of it are slammed into the air conditioning core partially clogging it and affecting the cold that you actually get which may not be a big deal in Chicago..

 

You can pull the axle, degrease the joint and see if there is visible damage from the grease leak. If all is good then a new boot and grease will get you back on the road. If not then new axle time. If mine go I plan to buy something locally with a lifetime warranty.

 

The Toyota part is better than most rebuilds.

Replacing only the boot is good when you detect a worn boot with no leaks.

Once there is a leak out, there is also a leak in. When water and road grit get in there, they dramatically accelerate the wear on the joint.

If you catch it early you can disassemble everything and clean it all and seal it up again with fresh grease, but usually nobody knows how long that leak has been there. This is part of why full axle swaps are more popular.

If you think this boot just got a hole in it last week, reboot. If it's been in tatters for 2 years, get a whole axle.

 

If the boot isn't torn, just some grease seeping out - leave it alone. I wouldn't bother rebooting an 18 year old axle - too much wear. IMHO, Mccohnes is correct in the safest least costly action, though you'll still be out labor cost if it does fail again - outside the labor warranty portion. You'll begin to hear a clicking or growling sound while turning, when it needs replacement.
Also pass on the evaporator core cleaning; they just spray a bottle of disinfectant into the intake ducts. Some dealerships are smart enough to remove the cabin filter when they do this, others not so much...

Good Luck

 

Best one I've seen involves attaching a foamer can to the condensate drain hose under the car. It pushes a wall of mildly alkaline foam up through the evaporator.

And it works every bit as well DIY in the driveway, if you really think you need it.