Replacing rear wheel bearings- Advise?

I've heard Timken is good, might even be what Toyota uses, rebranded. But just hearsay
no first hand experience.

If your mechanic is good, maybe just use him? No idea of your diy level, just know it's a handful, they can be totally stuck in there.

 

I’ve done a replacement rear wheel hub assembly in a members 2010 with a timken and it is rolling along fine.

I’ve done a Dura Go on the drivers front of our 2010 and for the 10 k miles it’s been in service, it’s been quiet .

I did a Moog on the passenger front and after 7 k miles, it’s getting louder.

So a bit of a crap shoot. When doing the replacement, be wary of the clam shell design of the plastic speed sensor protector.

Good luck and keep us posted .

 

I have a 2013 persona series. I just replaced the right rear,thank god the noise is gone, runs perfect. Problem is I listened to a mechanic who said didn't have to disconnect the ground cable on the battery,just to wait at least 10 minuets which I probably allowed 40 minuets, before I disconnected the wire to the bearing. Now my brake warning, anti lock and traction control lights are all on. HELP!!!!!!

 

Welcome to Prius Chat .

Some questions:

• Have you tried disconnecting the 12 volt now to see if the codes return?
• Was the wire damaged?
• Do you have a way to read the codes?
• Do you notice any performance difference with the dash lights on?

Good luck and keep us posted .

 

Yes, I did disconnect the battery, twice. The first time I waited about 3 minuets, the 2nd time about 10 minuets.
The wire did not seem damaged as I was trying to be gentle with it.
I can't read the codes but I can bring it to an auto parts store I guess.
No performance issues, I did use the "dice'' tool to reset the piston on the caliper.

I only took it for a short ride and the car felt like it was brand new, i have 117k on it.

 

Thank you for your response and your welcoming. I have been a lurker here for a while, you folks are real good, I got the smell out of my AC for $12 bucks instead of $187 at the dealer. I also used the evap cleaner on my home AC's.

Is there a way to reset the codes, I thought I read in one of the threads by turning the car on and off a few times in a short period they could be reset.

 

If you don’t have Techstream, one way to do the code reset is to disconnect the 12v battery.

If the codes return, they need to be investigated and will point you toward the cause.

Good luck and keep us posted .

 

Just did the rear hubs on my 2011 without disconnecting the 12V battery. The brake, VSC and ABS lights were all on when I started the vehicle afterwards. I disconnected the 12v battery several times for as long as overnight to no real avail. I attempted to start the car as always but it didn’t start as usual. Lights came on but there was no start attempt. I hit the brake pedal and repressed start. Magically it started and all the lights went off and everything seems to be working fine. I’d be appreciative if someone here could explain this to me. I don’t know if I stumbled on some process to clear the codes or if several attempts are required before a reset occurs. Thanks in advance for any reply.

 

Sounds like your car wasn't sending a speed sensor signal. When you replaced the hub (that includes the sensor), then a signal was sent, and the codes cleared.

It's very helpful to know the codes before replacing parts. They lead to the problem(s). You should be OK now.

 

Thanks for the response. It makes sense that the signal wasn’t present. How could or can I get the codes without a tech stream or other device to read them?
Thanks again.

 

Jumper the TC and CG terminals of the DLC3, and count the flashes for the codes. The repair manual is helpful too.

Brake, ABS, (!) lights on | PriusChat