Replacing transmission oil

A torque wrench is normally used to get a desired amount of torque in tightening something. To loosen, you can use whatever you want

I find it useful to get a long metal cheater bar/pipe to put over whatever you're using to give you more extension and additional torque, that should help you loosen it

 

It's in there pretty tight, so you'll need a bit of muscle if you're not using a long extension breaker bar. It shouldn't break.

 

Don't forget.. lefty loosey, righty tighty.

 

(this is why I always advise to open the fill hole before the drain hole, if you drain everything out, THEN discover you can't add more, you will hate yourself)

 

A breaker bar should be used to break tight fasteners loose, not a torque wrench. Using the torque wrench risks breaking it, or throwing it out of calibration.

 

+1 on the breaker bar. A torque wrench isn't made for that duty and costs a lot more to replace. But you might want to use it for putting the plugs back in. 29 ft/pounds, iirc.

I changed mine yesterday using a 1/2" drive breaker bar. I didn't need a pipe extension, but both plugs gave a couple good snaps before coming loose. And, @JimboPalmer, that's a really important tip about doing the fill plug first. Next week, we'll see how it goes with wifey's 2007 with 118k miles on it.

 

I don't know if the Gen 2 is similar, but I found using an extension between the socket and the breaker bar helped gain some clearance to be able to gain leverage on the fill/drain plugs.

 

Me too. Especially the fill plug, I think.

 

I just want to make sure that what you call the "drain screw" is the correct drain plug.

The 2G transaxle has a circular drain plug for the ATF with a 10 mm hex hole in the center, hence you need to use a 10 mm hex socket key on a 1/2" breaker bar to remove it.

The transaxle has another drain plug, closer to the engine, with a hex head intended for a 24 mm socket. That drain plug is for the inverter/transaxle coolant.

As previously suggested, make sure you have located and can loosen the ATF fill plug on the side of the transaxle facing the radiator (which needs a 24 mm socket) before you remove the ATF drain plug.

The correct tightening torque is 29 ft.-lb. You may have to exert substantial loosening torque to get the drain plug loose, hence the suggestion that you use a breaker bar at minimum, and ideally extend its length with a length of pipe or some other cheater device to improve your leverage.

 

Just because one Can do something, doesn't mean that one Should do something.

Breaker bars are relatively inexpensive, if you don't want to get one, use a regular ratchet with a cheater (pipe) instead of using your torque wrench.

 

It may take well over 29 foot pounds to loosen the plug. Mine felt like at least 60.

 

DO NOT USE THE TORQUE WRENCH -- YOU'RE GOING TO BREAK IT!

As others have said, you need a breaker bar (or ratchet with extension) and 10mm allen socket. Why do you keep wanting to use the torque wrench?

 

I know, torque wrenches are typically longer and it's tempting to use them as a breaker bar. I'll add my voice to the chorus--don't do it.

If you do, buy a new torque wrench because you've just created an expensive breaker bar.

 

This isn't meant as ridicule; I just love analogies. So, a contest of sorts ....

I put it in FHoP to keep this thread on topic if I can: Using a torque wrench as a breaker bar | PriusChat

 

Clearance is pretty tight, it is doubtful you'll be able to get a power tool in there.