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Rough engine start/stop

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Nicotin3, Mar 31, 2018.

  1. Nicotin3

    Nicotin3 Junior Member

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    Good day! I have a problem with my '06. Until the ICE engine gets warm (5-10 min) the car is shaking very bad when the engine stops or starts. I read all the threads regarding this problem and didn't find the solution yet.
    It started few months ago when I cleaned the MAF sensor, throttle body and (my mistake) washed the engine.

    After I went to the dealer and said, as there is no error code, they cannot help. I decided to start my investigation.

    What I did:
    -dismantle the throttle body and cleaned, plus cleaning the intake manifold. Also replaced the gasket from the TV. [​IMG]
    -replaced the PCV valve, as it was quite a lot of dirt in the intake manifold
    -took out the spark plugs and cleaned. All of them were looking like this [​IMG] [​IMG]
    -inspected the ignitors.

    My questions are:
    1. Can a faulty MAF sensor but without an error code, cause this problem?
    2. Is it too much gunk in the intake manifold?
    3. Is it normal after two years and aprox 25-30k miles , the spark plugs to look like that?

    After all the investigation the problem is still there.
    The next step that I was thinking to do is replace the MAF sensor. As maybe I made a mistake and touched it the first time and did not notice. But I was looking also for a second opinion before spending the money.
    Thank you!
     

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  2. Nicotin3

    Nicotin3 Junior Member

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    I forgot to mention that the car is converted to LPG, but even if I shut off the LPG system completely, symptoms are the same.
    And also on the highways after a long run, I get an error code of P0171 (System too lean), never in the city. But this came recently, the problem with rough start/stop is from almost one year.
     
  3. MickyMatter

    MickyMatter Active Member

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    Some years ago I heard that LPG conversion results in higher temperatures and affects the valves (wear).
    You could check their function, too (travel, compression,...)
     
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  4. Nicotin3

    Nicotin3 Junior Member

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    Can you please tell me more exactly which valves I need to check?

    The compression I don't have the proper tools to check them. Maybe I will go to a mechanic.
     
  5. MickyMatter

    MickyMatter Active Member

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    I think they're called intake valves and exhaust valves.
    If there's too much wear at their necks and/or at their gasket surface maybe they cannot open/close properly or they would have a bad timing.
    The high temperatures of LPG combustion can heat up the valves. The exhaust valves more than the intake valves, because the intake valves have fresh air while the exhaust valves have only hot exhaust gases.
    The hotter exhaust valve can possibly be bonded in the gasket area and break free by force of the camshaft again and again, wearing the gasket surface.
    This could influence the engine (compression and expansion ratio) with Atkinson Miller cycle much more than a standard Otto engine at least running at lower rpm and while starting.
     
    #5 MickyMatter, Apr 1, 2018
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2018
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  6. Nicotin3

    Nicotin3 Junior Member

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    Replaced today the MAF sensor and it looks like this was not the cause. The problem is still there. Waiting for more suggestions. :/
     
  7. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    Reset the ECU start to drive with cold engine and with just gasoline and monitor the fuel trim values (or just short term fuel trim). They should stay within + or – 10%.

    If it works fine then you probably have some problem with LPG conversion that will mix up the fuel trim values so the problem also exists while running with gasoline. You getting a code for running lean on long drives would also indicate this.

    If the fuel trims stay outside of that + or – 10% you should be able to just normal diagnosing methods for rich or lean running. This includes the engine damage that MickyMatter already suggested. Anyways keep us posted. And if you can put the fuel trim numbers that you get here so that we can look at them.
     
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  8. Nicotin3

    Nicotin3 Junior Member

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    In the last week I was running a full tank of high octane gasoline + aditive for injectors. I didn't run on LPG during the last days.
    Anyway the problem is exactly the same on LPG or gasoline.
    I did a reset of the ECU after installing the MAF sensor.

    I have torque and also some of the PIDs from Prius. Which fuel trim reading I need to monitor? There are from sensor 1, 2, plus long and short term.

    I will try to get the engine maintenance mode (keeping the idle running) and monitor the fuel trim and come back with results.

    I am confused why after the engine gets warm (5-10 min) it is running very smooth?
     
  9. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    You need to reset the ECU before doing the test! You can reset the ECU by just disconnecting the 12V battery for 5min.

    Monitor the short term fuel trim (bank1) and long term fuel trim (also bank1).

    But as a test just driving it should be fine. If it works normally on gasoline after reset then the fault is in LPG system. Just keep it off LPG until this is figured out or reset it if you have driven on LPG and want to continue diagnosing.

    If the LPG system has problem or is just adjusted/installed wrong when running on LPG it will be pulling the long term fuel trim to wrong value. And then when running on gasoline that wrong value will be slowly corrected.

    Or of course it can also be something totally different. But then you would have bad fuel trim numbers while doing the test. And from those numbers you can figure out where the problem is.
     
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  10. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    What is the odometer reading?

    Did you thoroughly clean the corrosion around the throttle body opening on the intake manifold which was evident in your photo? You do not need any air leaks between the throttle body and the intake manifold.

    I am wondering if you have an engine air intake leak somewhere downstream from the MAF sensor which is allowing excess air to enter the system, thus causing the P0171 code. Maybe after the engine heats up, the leak goes away because a marginal gasket starts to seal again...
     
  11. fotomoto

    fotomoto Senior Member

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    I hate to say it but rough starts (some times so rough that it rock the entire car back/forth while in P) and stops was an operating condition before my hybrid battery failed. Repairing the battery improved it a lot. Later on after several battery repairs, the battery was replaced with a new Toyota pack and the throttle body and MAF were cleaned at that time too. Symptoms are gone. So which fixed it? Or was a combination of the two?
     
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  12. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    I suspect fuel trim also. The engine when cold has more fuel added as warm up routine to combat the exact situation you describe. Lean condition on cold engine is not good. This is confirmed by the lean condition code thrown.

    Surprised your not seeing more codes. Fuel trim monitoring and resolution is very complicated many sensors
    And tied into engine temp. Take it easy on the engine your running lean engine will run good but hot.

    How many miles? Did this event happen fast? Maybe poor fuel? Fuel pressure?
     
  13. Nicotin3

    Nicotin3 Junior Member

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    Thank you for the replies.
    125k miles right now.

    I did clean the corrosion between throttle body and intake manifold, I guess it is airtight in there.

    I monitored the fuel trim now, but I don't have a graph.
    The sum of both long and short, was never going more than +6 or +7.
    I will try to record the screen tomorrow.

    This happened right after I cleaned the MAF sensor and after that, washed the engine with water pressure. I can bet now, after I replaced the MAF sensor, that the problem is caused because of the engine washing.
     
  14. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    Did you clear the ECU?

    The numbers look good enough. It did never go into negatives? If it stays between 0 and +7% that’s good enough.

    Did the problem still exist or did it stop?
     
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  15. Nicotin3

    Nicotin3 Junior Member

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    Yes, I did the reset. Unplugged the 12V battery for 10 min. The problem was still there.

    I just re-tightened a little-bit the bolts (I am afraid I can break them) of the throttle body and the air filter case. But I will tell you the result tomorrow as the car is still warm.
     
  16. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    As the combined fuel trim newer went above +7% there really can’t be bad enough vacuum leak (like leak in that throttle body to manifold gasket). So problem is somewhere else.

    You haven’t gotten any other fault codes except that P0171? How good is your HV-battery?

    You could do the compression test. You need a normal compression tester and a computer with Techstream (Mini-VCI is cheap way to get it).
     
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  17. Nicotin3

    Nicotin3 Junior Member

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    Yes, P0171 was the only error I got 2 or 3 times during the last 8-9 months, when I was on highway after 30-40 min all the time.
    I checked HV battery one month ago and the readings were quite ok. I don't remember the values, but I can check it again and come back.
    I will check how the compression test can be done and try it.
    As more information I get from everywhere and I see that are so many things that can be verified, I get so annoyed that I paid two times the assholes from a local Toyota dealer, and the only thing they did was to check the error code.

    Thank you again for the reply.
     
  18. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    P0171 code only shows with LPG? If yes then next time you use LPG monitor the fuel trim numbers. If combined fuel trim goes outside of that + or – 10% (or maybe outside of 0 to +15% if you already have 7% with gasoline) there’s something wrong with LPG system.

    That possible problem with LPG system may or may not be related with this engine shake at starts and stops with cold engine. But a problem that causes engine to run lean can cause damage to engine.
     
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  19. Nicotin3

    Nicotin3 Junior Member

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    On the next long run, on highway, I will go only on gasoline to see if the error will pop-up. I will try to monitor the fuel trim on LPG also.
    First, it was the problem with rough engine starts/stops and long after that, few months the error with P0171 came in. I just guess they are not related.

    Edit: Can the throttle body, get broken by turning it manually for cleaning?
     
    #19 Nicotin3, Apr 3, 2018
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2018
  20. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    No with car off you turn the butterfly by hand. Lubricate the spring on the end.

    Btw, there's a sneaky throat clamp under the air cleaner box that keeps the box tight to the throttle body Its a 10mm hose clamp. It must be tight or you will have alot of unmetered air sneaking in the throttle body. You really cant see it you have to do it by feel I seem to remember.
     
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