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Rumbling and P0401 EGR code gone with fuel change

Discussion in 'Newbie Forum' started by Laura Eastman, May 26, 2019.

  1. Laura Eastman

    Laura Eastman Junior Member

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2018
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    Location:
    Lincoln, NE
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    III
    2010 Prius, ~133k miles. Bought used at 126k mi, previous owners seem to have taken good care of the car. I usually put Shell 89 in it because I was going off the "88" listed in the owner's manual. I read somewhere on here that that was a misprint and it was suppose to say 87. So I put 87 in. A short while after that on the first (and only) tank of 87 I got horrible rumbling on startup and while idling. Car threw the P0401 EGR code. I decided to do the next fill with my usual 89, a bit after that the rumbling was only at start up and wasn't so horrifying. Filled it up again today with 89 and the rumbling is completely gone.

    Toyota won't replace the EGR valve in accordance with the enhanced warranty because it is a previously salvage title and I am not in a California emissions state. (That is a whole other story with the the CSR telling me it was covered and then the dealer refusing to honor it, they did confirm that the EGR valve should be replaced)

    Doing research on here I had decided to replace the PCV valve, clean the intake manifold, throttle body, EGR pipe, and have the EGR valve and cooler cleaned (or replaced if they won't clean it). I have already bought all the tools to do the PCV to EGR pipe, but I was going to pay for the EGR valve and cooler because we have an apartment and I don't want to risk spilling coolant. It also looked like that part was much more intensive.

    Now that the rumbling is completely gone, and I suspect if the engine light is reset it won't come back on, should I still pay to have the EGR valve and cooler fixed up? I will still do that DIY work I intended on doing.
     
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  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

    Joined:
    May 11, 2005
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    boston
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    2012 Prius Plug-in
    Model:
    Plug-in Base
    i think yes, but will leave it to those who have done it. no idea why octane would change anything.
     
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  3. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Vehicle:
    2019 Prius Prime
    Model:
    Prime Plus
    If you’ve not done the cooler, there is still restriction in the system:cool:.

    Some of the work can be coincidental, but the whole circuit needs to be touched;).

    But at 133k miles, I’d also look to do the catch can install, then you should be good for a bit(y).
     
    #3 Raytheeagle, May 26, 2019
    Last edited: May 26, 2019
  4. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Northern California
    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Yes definitely change it. Read the horror stories of people having blown head gaskets in the gen 3 threads.
     
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  5. Greenteapri

    Greenteapri Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2018
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    Vehicle:
    2013 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    Rent a garage with tools and knock that EGR carbon out! Your Prius is begging for some TLC. Find out if the sparkies were replaced by the previous owner.
     
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  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
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    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    Some info for DIY, and yeah, I'm starting to "boiler plate" this:

    Nutz About Bolts Prius Maintenance Videos | PriusChat

    Good thread:

    EGR & Intake Manifold Clean Results | PriusChat

    And to keep it clean, an Oil Catch Can is a very good idea:

    Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock! | PriusChat

    Somewhat tools worth having, for EGR and intake manifold cleaning:

    E8 Torx socket (mandatory)
    E6 Torx socket (optional, but good to have, to remove the throttle body studs from intake manifold)
    3/8" ratchet wrench, regular and long handle, flex head, you can never have enough
    1/4" ratchet wrench, or 3/8" to 1/4" reducer
    Ratchet extensions: you can never have enough
    Long needle nose piers, straight and bent tip
    Ratcheting 12mm box wrench (optional, but makes disconnection of the EGR cooler from exhaust easier)
    Torque wrench (3/8" and 1/4" both good to have)
    Floor jack and safety stands (or ramps): basically some method to raise front, if you need to take underpanel off, which you may need to, both for access and to recover dropped items.
     
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