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sfprankster's (mis)adventures modding a 2014 Prius Model Three

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Accessories and Modifications' started by sfprankster, Oct 2, 2014.

  1. sfprankster

    sfprankster Active Member

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    Same VLEDS Amber Platinum LED's, front and rear.

    Not the cheapest, but very bright and well made products.
     
    #61 sfprankster, Dec 29, 2014
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2015
  2. Xterra72

    Xterra72 Senior Member

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    Thanks for the quick response. Did you replace your sidemarker light to led? If so did you go with Amber or white? Original bulb is regular white.
     
  3. sfprankster

    sfprankster Active Member

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    Amber LED's where the original reflectors were amber on the side of the headlight assembly. 5k LED's on the marker light above the headlights.

    On mine, the stock side marker lights were amber halogen's
     
  4. Xterra72

    Xterra72 Senior Member

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    So sidemarker lights are already led amber?
     
  5. sfprankster

    sfprankster Active Member

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    Mine were amber halogen bulbs.

    Absolutely a pain in the *** to change, especially the passenger side. I removed the low beam plugs/bulbs to gain easier access the side marker lights plug. The smaller your hands are, the easier it will be to replace them.

    The upper marker lights were almost too easy. All of a minute max to change them both.
     
    #65 sfprankster, Dec 29, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2014
  6. Xterra72

    Xterra72 Senior Member

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    Thanks. I am tempted. To change out my signal lights to leds but the pain to switch out the flasher module is stopping the urge at the moment.
     
  7. sfprankster

    sfprankster Active Member

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    The flasher module is another fun one to change. :mad:

    I turned the 4 way flasher on and used the Hellen Keller/Ray Charles method of blindly feeling around under the dash until I felt the click. It's between the parking brake pedal and the steering column with the plug facing down towards the floor.

    Too small of a space for me to get a camera into to take a pic.

    If you have back problems, this one is rough.
     
  8. Xterra72

    Xterra72 Senior Member

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    So you mentioned that you used the same turn signals for the fronts. Thought maybe the turn signal housing might not be deep enough for an led that long. Thought maybe you went with led front turn signal more of the size of your led parking light.
     
  9. sfprankster

    sfprankster Active Member

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    The front and rear turn signals both use a 7440/7443 bulb and the marker lights are 194's. No way to insert the smaller 194's into the turn signal sockets.

    Unless a large enough hammer is brought into play. :rolleyes:

    No issues with the depth of the LED's in either turn signal housing. Just make sure you insert the LED fully into the socket until you hear a click. I dropped one into the front turn signal housing and it took a while to retrieve the LED. :(
     
    #69 sfprankster, Dec 29, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2014
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  10. Xterra72

    Xterra72 Senior Member

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    Do some led signal lights also require resistors? When would you have to add resistors?
     
  11. sfprankster

    sfprankster Active Member

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    You can add resistors to the turn signal LED's, instead of changing out the flasher module. Either method gets rid of the hyper flashing that comes with the lower resistance LED's. The lower resistance of the LED's causes the cars electronics to believe there is a burnt turn signal bulb and the hyper flashing is its way of notifying the driver a bulb is out.

    All of the other LED's I installed are plug 'n play. :)
     
  12. Xterra72

    Xterra72 Senior Member

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  13. sfprankster

    sfprankster Active Member

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    The guide doesn't list a Prius, only the '07-'12 Rav4 and Yaris.
    Don't know if they will fit. 63mm length is rather long for the front. The rear has more then enough room.


    Personally, I'm not a fan of LED's sold on Ebay. The LED's quality and durability is questionable. I've run VLEDS on my Civic SI for years without a single burnt LED. The first interior pair I purchased from Ebay died within a couple weeks in my Prius.
     
  14. Xterra72

    Xterra72 Senior Member

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    Yeah worried about the length.
     
  15. Xterra72

    Xterra72 Senior Member

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    Do you loose functionality of your lights flashing when you arm/lock the doors after you installed the led flasher module? Do you loose any kind of functionality anywhere?

    I already have the side view mirror led signal installed. It is working perfectly now. Worried it will not work correctly after flasher module install.
     
  16. Accordlayingkit

    Accordlayingkit Senior Member

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    Wont affect any of that...jus stops the rapid flashing after led installs. Gives you the normal blinking again
     
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  17. sfprankster

    sfprankster Active Member

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    ^^^ What he said


    Only functionality loss will be in your back after planking over the door frame and under the steering wheel searching for the flasher module. :confused:
     
  18. Xterra72

    Xterra72 Senior Member

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    That is one big reason I have not done it yet. Haha
     
  19. sfprankster

    sfprankster Active Member

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    Same here. I had all the LED's and the flasher module on my desk for more than a month, before I went ahead and changed the module.

    You know you've been thinking about it for too long already. It's going to have to be changed. ;)

    Got to keep up with the Jones(no peer pressure here) :censored:
     
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  20. sfprankster

    sfprankster Active Member

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    The creature comfort (mis)adventures continues...


    Audio Upgrade Stage I:

    This first stage entails changing the rear door speakers and sound dampening the rear doors.

    This (mis)adventure begins on Dec 26, when my order of a pair of JL Audio TR650-CSi 6-1/2" Evolution TR Series 2-way Component Speakers arrived. Initially, I intended to install them as front speakers and install a pair of JL Audio 6 1/2" coaxials into the rear doors. But things changed as I contemplated the system and did some additional research on several variations of my original idea.
    IMG_5018.JPG IMG_5025.JPG

    Door Panel Removal:
    To begin, you must remove the rear door panels to access the speakers and the area to be sound dampened. Locate a pair of screws, the first below a small rubber pad in the finger area behind the window switch. The second, behind a small plastic insert behind the door latch. I used a plastic panel removal tool to access the screws.
    IMG_5031.JPG IMG_5034.JPG IMG_5035.JPG IMG_5037.JPG
    IMG_5039.JPG IMG_5042.JPG IMG_5047.JPG IMG_5049.JPG

    Reach to the bottom of the rear door panel and you will find a hole running along the edge, large enough to insert several fingers. Give this portion of the panel a firm tug, to release the lower three plugs holding the panel in place. Then work your way up the sides of the panel to release the remaining plugs. The top of the panel is held in place by overlapping into the window frame. There is a single plug to be removed, with a small pressure release, and the door lock/release cables before you can remove the door panel and expose the area I chose to sound dampen.
    IMG_5101.JPG IMG_5104.JPG

    Since I intended to place sound dampening material over the entire surface, I removed the stock moisture barrier. The black sticky material used by Toyota, will adhere to your skin and anything else you touch afterwards, so be careful. It removes very easily with a simple upwards pulling motion from one end to the other. You have to make a few cuts on the moisture barrier material, to clear a few wire bundles and the door latch cables.
    IMG_5112.JPG IMG_5114.JPG IMG_5115.JPG


    Now the fun begins... :censored:
    Can you say POWER TOOLS? :p

    Rear Speaker Installation:
    At this point, it is best to replace the rear speakers. Unplug the speaker connection, by squeezing the release pin and place the connector out of the way. To remove the speaker, I drilled the rivets holding the rear speaker bracket onto the door with a 3/16" drill bit. If you are attempting to reuse the factory bracket, I would take my time drilling the rivets. Going to quickly, will cause the rivet to spin in the bracket, generating heat and melting the speaker bracket tabs.
    IMG_5118.JPG IMG_5121.JPG IMG_5125.JPG IMG_5138.JPG

    I replaced the factory brackets with Metra 82-8148 6"-6.75" Speaker Adapter for 1998-up Lexus Scion Toyota using the supplied screws, washers and nuts. I tested the windows to make sure I had plenty of clearance and didn't have to cut the screws shorter. I also used a Metra 72-8104 SHGM01B Speaker Wire Harness Adapter Plug Toyota to make an easy and clean connection, as I plan to remove the speakers/audio system when I sell my Prius. There is a small indentation in the door frame, near the top of the speaker, where I ran the speaker wires into the door for the connection to the speakers. Make sure you have a solid connections for all of the speakers.
    IMG_5080.JPG IMG_5056.JPG IMG_5139.JPG IMG_5145.JPG

    Having the option to either flush or surface mount the tweeters, gives this speaker system a latitude in mounting locations.
    I chose to flush mount the tweeters near the upper front of the rear door panels. I began by drawing a template of the tweeter on the inside of the door panel with a felt marker. Then drilling several small holes around the inside of my template. I used a VERY sharp, fine tipped hobby knife to make small adjustments to the hole to create a pressed fit for the tweeters, along with a supplied bracket, to hold them in place.
    IMG_5107.JPG IMG_5109.JPG IMG_5085.JPG IMG_5088.JPG



    ....and the fun continues... :whistle:

    Sound Dampening the Rear Doors:
    Sound dampening the rear doors...or how to make your Prius sound like a Mercedes Benz when closing the doors.


    I didn't want to spend the money to use products such as Dynamat as I have in the past. For this project, I used an aluminum backed foam, available at Home Depot or Lowes called Frost King Foam/Foil Duct Insulation, along with a high quality 2" aluminum tape to seal the edges. Clean the inside of the door frame using denatured alcohol and a microfiber towel. Like doing a puzzle, work your way around the door, covering in sections, with a 1" overlap in the pieces, until the entire door is covered. Press the material firmly against the door frame by hand, or using a roller to create a good bond. Leave a little room for the door cables and plugs to be able to move freely. Also, don't forget to mark the screw holes for the mounting plate for the interior door panel. Huge pain in the *** to remove all your work to find a couple of small holes. :eek: Once you have the door surface covered, replace the panel mounting bracket, plug in the window switch plug and the door lock/release cables. Lastly, place the interior door panel over the window frame and give each plug a firm push with your hand. All that is left is to replace the two screws and the small panels blocking their view.
    IMG_5150.JPG IMG_5152.JPG IMG_5157.JPG IMG_5159.JPG IMG_5065.JPG IMG_5165.JPG


    ...and don't forget, you are now only half way finished with the rear doors. o_O

    Now rinse and repeat for the other side. :p



    The only visible piece of the Audio Upgrade Stage I, are a pair of JL Audio tweeters in the rear doors... (y)
    IMG_5088.JPG



    This is the no expense spared speaker Toyota uses in the rear of the Prius... :cautious:
    IMG_5074.JPG IMG_5077.JPG




    TLDR: Wheeeeeeeeeeee!!! :)
     
    #80 sfprankster, Jan 7, 2015
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2015