Should I change out the engine coolant that was added redline water wetter?

?As referenced to quoting me from post #17.....where I am in agreement with you on post #16, and yes, post #12?

Not sure I've had the privileged of any memorable conversation with you in the past, so please help me understand the purpose behind your, shall we say...rather witty remark.

100K is to long for any coolant, and I have no opinion about Redline products...if that sets the record straight.

Respectfully, this is yibo829's thread. As a Professional Licensed Mechanic with over 30 Certified years of experience, I would be more than happy to discuss vehicle maintenance with you on a new thread.

 

You quoted me and then said

"and add fresh coolant"

Which is exactly what I said in previous Post #12.

Redline and any other auto water conditioner only works well if added to new coolant. I'm not really that interested in its ability to slightly lower the temp of the coolant but it seems to work very good as an anti corrosive. I have used this in so many cars. It works. It really seems to be working well in the Inverter loop as evidenced by the condition of Inverter coolant after 10,000 miles
in my car. Pulled some and still looks really good. I suspect aluminum salts in old Inverter coolant hampers the pump's flow ability.The fluid becomes abrasive. I noticed a really big change in I coolant tank turbulence when I changed mine out at 30,000 miles. Now looks like its boiling there's so much movement. Also I did some temp tests on the Inverter and trans case with my IR thermometer after that change at 30,000 and it ran about 5 degree's cooler after new coolant.

I also note an slight increase in mpg's.

Which is probably why in the Gen III's they now use a separate cooling rad for the Invert coolant. No longer in the same rad box like Gen II. Brilliant. Probably bought them 5 degree's cooler. More mpg's because the Inverter electronics are much more efficient when cooler. I wish there was more wiggle room under the hood in my Gen II or I would add a separate Inverter coolant rad with its own fan. No more temp sink from being metallic ally coupled to the ICE rad. Its worth some mpg's I'm certain.

The Inverter is the heart and soul of this car and an amazing piece of Engineering. Its worth throwing $20 in new coolant at it every 2 years.

And a good byproduct of conditioned ICE coolant will be revealed by a long ICE water pump life. I'll let you know.
But on past experience I haven't had to change a water pump in maybe 20 years. I'm doing something right.

Not advocating use of any product. But advocating a simple Inverter Coolant change every 30,000 miles. Document turbulence before and after. Document mpg's. You will be surprised.

 

Have you folks heard about this stuff. I ordered it and hope to put this in fairly quick. Got about 20k kms on coolant now.

Kool it by Lubegard...


Kool-It Supreme Coolant Treatment

 

I've never used any Lubeguard product but they go crazy for it over at BITOG so its probably pretty good.

I clicked your link and it looks identical to Water Wetter.

I would just dump the engine rad and fill it back up with fresh SLLC and a bottle of Kool It. Flush out the overflow bottle too. If you just do the rad it won't air lock on you. Its when you open the engine petcock under the engine that it gets locked. Then at 100K do the whole ICE system.

I would do the Inverter coolant too only you can dump the whole system on the Inverter and bleed it pretty easy.
Many posts and Youtubes about it. Its easy.

You cannot go wrong keeping fresh coolant in the Inverter.