Shudder, cylinder 3 misfire, check engine light

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Groundpounder17, Mar 6, 2019.

  1. Groundpounder17

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    A couple more 826DF143-18C9-44B0-A7A5-71702834E6E2.jpeg 80403A4D-B904-4D7A-B551-EF250A66F01D.jpeg
     
  2. Groundpounder17

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    4B2DC17C-98D7-4AE3-A1CC-5C444949C670.jpeg E8F5C000-FD83-4C8B-93F7-30C218963803.jpeg 4B2DC17C-98D7-4AE3-A1CC-5C444949C670.jpeg Intake manifold, nice and clean
     
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  3. Robert Holt

    Robert Holt Senior Member

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    Thanks for reference! Had never heard of the Bauschinger Effect. So my fears of breakage due to re-using a pre-used and slightly stretched bolt appear to be groundless as long as the bolt has been used arounf 4-5 times max, and I suppose the elongation test specified by Toyota would ensure that you don’t use it up to the 10th cycle (or maximum stretch) where failure would occur. Have to say, I understand it much better now, but still don’t like the idea of stretching headbolts very much.
     
  4. Groundpounder17

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    I went ahead and ordered new head bolts. As much work as I have in this I consider head bolts and taking the head to the machine shop to be minor expenses.
     
  5. Groundpounder17

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    While I’m in here I’m wondering if there is a good way to check cylinder wear. Without facing the problem of a bent rod when does one decide to rebuild the engine? I didn’t have the compression checked before I started tearing it down.
     
  6. mjoo

    mjoo Senior Member

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    Camera? Are the cross-hatch patterns there or polished out?

    Pixel XL ?
     
  7. Groundpounder17

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    I’ll look when I get home
     
  8. Groundpounder17

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    They are still there
     
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  9. Groundpounder17

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    Is there anything I can do to clean the rings? I’m guessing they really need replacing? At this point should I consider pulling the rest of the engine and getting rings? How much more work would be involved to pull the engine? I’m guessing not much more.
    Before this it was using about a quart of oil every 10k miles, give or take.
     
  10. padroo

    padroo Senior Member

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    A visual inspection is a good start but to do it right the pistons need to be removed and each cylinder checked for taper and out of round against the specs for wear. This video shows the machinist process.

     
  11. Groundpounder17

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    To do this I would need to pull the short block and if I did that I would rebuild it.
     
  12. Groundpounder17

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  13. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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  14. Groundpounder17

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    Any kind of cleaner I could use so I could let the piston tops soak while this is happening
     
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  15. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    Seafoam would do the trick. Let it soak for a short amount of time
     
  16. mjoo

    mjoo Senior Member

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    I heard seafoam, MMO and ATF work well.

    There are comparisons on YouTube.

    Pixel XL ?
     
  17. Groundpounder17

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    I poured Seafoam in and it didn’t seem to change level the first hour but I checked 5 hrs later and the 2nd cylinder from the left when looking at the engine from the front has slowly leaked down
     
  18. Groundpounder17

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    What’s an acceptable difference on the pistons at the top? My 1 and 4 are the same. My 2 and 3 have a 1/16” difference. I’m trying to go back together with it today after being delayed by my job since Tuesday.

    What will it do if I reassemble and run it with the #3 being a tad short? I’m almost certain it’s a slight bent rod but due to work I’m kind of in a bind and need to get back to driving soon
     
  19. Groundpounder17

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    As you can see in the pic, piston 3 is short by 1/16”. Now the question is do I rebuild the short block, buy a new short block, or just try to reassemble and see how it performs? At this point I don’t want a used engine unless I could find one with extremely low mileage.
     

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  20. Groundpounder17

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