Shudder, cylinder 3 misfire, check engine light

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Groundpounder17, Mar 6, 2019.

  1. padroo

    padroo Senior Member

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    A couple of people here have installed Gen 4 Prius engines in Gen 3 cars. There should be a supply of low mileage engines for sale. They will chime in on this I am sure.
     
  2. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    I’m fairly certain that’s a bent rod on number 3. I’d venture to say that you would get a noise on that cylinder when running if you reassemble this engine as is. I’m pretty sure, in retrospect, that is the mystery noise mine had when I got it. Mine was on number one though. You already have the head and things out of the way. Pull the short block. A rod is $70 thru Toyota. Or swap in a lower mile Gen 4. Since you have the gaskets and such to reassemble yours, put your head on the Gen 4 shortblock and put this one to bed.
     
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  3. Groundpounder17

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    What’s the difference between the short block of a gen 4 and the later gen 3 with the updated piston/ring set?
     
  4. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    The Gen 4 shortblock has added stainless steel insulation in the water jackets, possibly to “maintain” coolant temps. I’m just guessing at the actual purpose, but yes they are there.

    The newer Gen 3 engines, if you get a used one, at least in my area, are still priced several hundred dollars over the Gen 4. Is it logical that the price is more for an older engine? No. But the fact remains that the Gen 4 swap into a Gen 3 is still not a mainstream idea, and most, if not all yards get a premium price for the Gen 3 engines, run tested or not.
     
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  5. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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  6. Avi's Advanced Automotive

    Avi's Advanced Automotive Independent hybrid repair shop

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    I'm thinking a new connecting rod and updated pistons and rings.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  7. Avi's Advanced Automotive

    Avi's Advanced Automotive Independent hybrid repair shop

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    BTW, I've changed a couple bent connecting rods on these and they came out fine.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  8. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    Can the upper oil pan be removed without removing the short block?
     
  9. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    If I remember correctly, I think some of the bellhousing bolts pass thru the upper oil pan. I no longer have my old engine to look at though.

    But if it was me, I’d pull the shortblock for changing the rod.
     
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  10. Groundpounder17

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    So for me to remove the short block there really isn’t much left. Any tips on removing it from this point? Anything special to know or worry about removing the ac condensor?
     
  11. Groundpounder17

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  12. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    No need to remove the ac. I unbolted mine, wrapped a bungie cord around it, and hooked it to the radiator support.
     
  13. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    You do have to disconnect the 12v(small black connector) and the HV cable (orange plug though. Just for clearance issues.
     
  14. Groundpounder17

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    So just unbolt it from the block and pull the ac condenser out of the way?
     
  15. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    Yes. That’s all you need to do
     
  16. Groundpounder17

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    Any recommendations for anchor points to pull it?
     
  17. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    The short block only weighs about 100 pounds. Use a couple of the head bolts at opposite corners to attach your lifting device.
     
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  18. Groundpounder17

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    Thanks
     
  19. Avi's Advanced Automotive

    Avi's Advanced Automotive Independent hybrid repair shop

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    I think so. The last one I did was #2 and I only had to remove the lower oil pan and oil pump. I'm pretty sure you can remove the upper oil pan without removing the engine. Just don't disturb the rear oil seal and maybe put a thin film of FIPG/silicone where the seal contacts the upper oil pan.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  20. Groundpounder17

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    If I pull and rebuild it do you have any idea how much I’m looking at cost wise? How would a rebuild compare quality-wise to a new short block?
    I’d rather rebuild it but if I do that I want to do it right. I know I would need a ring set, 1 connecting rod, and should go ahead and get new pistons. I don’t see anywhere where Toyota allows for ordering oversized pistons. Does Toyota carry those?
    What about rod bearings, a new rear seal or connecting rod bolts? Should I replace those or wait and see. I’d really like to get the parts ordered soon so I could rebuild if that looks like my best option
     
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