So I figured out how to install my block heater

the Manitoba gov must be using low electricity rates to attract people and companies there.

 

thanks Ken for the data on electicity rates.

 

For those of us wanting to know how much electricity the block heaters use (or any other electrical device for that matter), I found two devices in the Smarthome catalog.

Kill a Watt $39.99

Watts Up? $109.99
Watts being used
Energy costs in dollars and cents

Watts Up? PRO $149.99
Same as above but adds:
Serial interface for computer
Payback Calculator

I did a quick Google for more technical information and found that these are not the lowest prices.

 

Wow, this thread's getting long. Good stuff throughout, though.
.
Again, the wiper cowling above the engine is not that hard to
remove, and gives wide-open access to EVERYTHING behind there. It
is a frequent first step in many repair procedures documented in
the service manual. There are some pix of the thing taken out
[and the wipers re-attached afterward, sans plastic screens] at
http://techno-fandom.org/~hobbit/cars/naked/
where doing that enabled seeing much more of the engine, installing
a clear cover on the inverter, adding the warm-air-intake hose, and
*would* have made block-heaters a lot easier if I had one at the
time. Really, the cowling is 8 or 10 easily-accessible bolts' worth.
.
Hey Ken, where do you keep getting these amazing pix?
.
_H*

 

I just had an idea! For the next generation of Prius a computer controlled automatic louver that closes on start up and opens dependent on coolant temp, catalytic converter temp, and ambient temp. SAAB did it first but they did many things first, but now Toyota can make it better make it intelligent. Now we need to make Toyota listen. Heat for our friends to the frozen north and yes even here in the 48's. We get some cold temps here. I remember the old roll up lovers in the SAAB and it worked and it can work better!

 

I'll take one, or two or 3! As we just got our first snowfall and the temps dipped into the low 30's I'm still not certain to what extent the block heater has contributed increased ICE efficiency. Since this is my first fall with the car and I don't have a baseline measurements, I'll go with the premise that "It can't hurt". And since this is not a coolant circulator, I'm not seeing any quicker warm ups in cabin temp I was hoping for, but then again the morning temps have dropped 15 degrees in the last few weeks.

That brings me to phase 2:

Doee anybody have any pictures/descriptions of how/where/what material they used for the their radiator air block? Please advise as my search of PriusChat didn't return any hits.

Thanks again,

Ken, 'chillin' in Oregon

 

Hints from Japan...

http://plaza.rakuten.co.jp/aerial/diary/200509010000/
http://blog.livedoor.jp/c_take/archives/50012252.html

Enjoy,
Ken@Japan

 

Thanks for the hint on the clips when I looked I thought they were screws. I like the idea of the sunshade material.

 

That's a great idea. Actually, HD highway tractors (Peterbilt, Kenworth, Volvo, etc) already have them as standard or optional. They work very well at maintaining an optimal temperature, and even on very warm days if the rig is going downhill or under very light load the louver is closed or partially closed.

Of course the louver would have to "fail open" to protect the motor and inverter components. That is, with power removed the louvers are open, with power applied to the actuator the louvers can cycle to the closed position.

 

Frank

Oops I missed this reply. The rates may benefit but the higher personal and small business tax does NOT help.

jay

 

Doc

That's a good tip but i prefer covering the exterior of the grille, not behind. If you happen to drive in areas with heavy snow, or say you have to push through a snow drift, keeping the exterior of the grille blocked will keep snow out of that area.

If you happen to block off just in front of the rad, and drive through deep snow, that area will fill with snow and it could cause an overheat once the temps get a bit warmer.

Folks around here are savvy enough to check the electric cooling fans or fan clutches before buying a used car or truck. Some folks will bury the car or pickup truck in a snowbank, leave the motor running, and ruin the electric fan motor or burn out the fan clutch.

jay

 

Thanks Evan: I've got some corrugagted plastic sheets (like cardboard but made out of plastic) that I've use to make outdoor signs, that I'll be 'recycling' for this purpose and I'll hang it perhaps with a couple of shower hooks for easy removal. Do you think that the top black plastic cover over the radiator is vital, necessary to be reinstalled? If so, why?

Appropo, Jayman's future post, no high snow banks here, so I'll go with the stealth inviso install!

Scan Gauge Next?!? What's the status of that there CAN VIEW???

BTW, I left my EBH on for 4 hours and Whamo! Nearly instant cabin heat (37 degrees F this morn. too!)

Thanks, Ken

 

Thanks Evan, No Nav Here so I'd be happy to sign up as bleeding, er uh, leading edge of technology beta tester. Who shall I email my interest to?

BTW, on my '05 I can't really see a way to get a radiator block easily into place as there is another plastic shroud under/in front of the 'ToyzAreUs' quality radiator cover. I can take this cover off to do the radiator block install but then I worry about the issues with the ease of removing it/moving it around later. Any ideas?

Thanks,

KenYOregon

 

Thanks Evan:

Did you suspend the radiator block material or somehow keep it from extending all the way to the bottom of the radiator to keep it from blocking the inverter radiator (which I couldn't find or see at the bottom of my radiator - it just looked like one integral radiator with no extra parts or pieces or pipes/tubes at the bottom). Also, does your 'cover' extend across the entire width of the radiator or just partial?

I'll search for one of those accordion reflective sunshades and cut it to size (I passed one on the side of the road a couple of weeks ago and thought of snagging it - being the good recycler that I am), or just go to the hardware store and buy some aluminized bubble pack insulation, but the question still remains about how to keep it up off the bottom and have it somewhat easy to remove.

All thought and tips greatfully appreciated.

All the best,

KenYOregon