Speaker Wiring

Second cup just poured. If memory serves me correct, those speaker wires should be solid colored insulation, not colored dots on white insulation. You might be chasing the wrong wires.

 

I found a lot of white/pink stripe and white/violet stripe for the in-door speaker wiring in my c.

 

Could be, but this is a 2010 II lift-back. Edit...per the print, (**) note indicates the door speaker wires from connector "OL2" can be either colored wiring or painted. The rest would indicate solid color by omission of that note.

 

Fair enough- I have no idea what conventions Toyota keeps for themselves. My point- it has at least this one degree of commonality to the door speakers I was working on last week, and nobody has coughed up the real wiring diagram yet.

 

Ya, I was lucky to download the Service Manual and WDM for the "2010 lift-backs" when is was available here.

 

If you tap in at the HU harness/adapter you mess up the speaker chain parallel, loose some signal to the sqwaker and send full range freqs (that's why the bass blocker cap) to the door woofer...also at reduced power. Yes... check across your 2 exposed wires behind the kick panel for voltage with the system powered up and on. Try because DC and AC because we still don't have confirmation you're on the right circuit...reference my question...why would they tap into speaker wires to power remote start. IF you determine (or reasonably sure) this is the right circuit, just "twist" in some new speaker wire (external jumper) at the 2 exposed and just "shove" the other 2 ends to the speaker J-side itself...right color to right pin. You know, like running new wire, but just hanging out for now.

Another question...When you removed the original spliced in connector under the kick, where there 3 wires to each...total 6?

 

...and, were those "blue" wires at the door for the speaker?

 

For future reference, this will help if/when you decide to gain access to the dash speaker. Definitely disconnect the 12 VDC battery for this step...and wait a few. Don't want that airbag popping in your face.

 

I admire your determination...but realize this is easier for me to do than teach over the phone...and even though I'm an Airline Mechanic (fly free) I am not flying or driving to Ohio for this...respectfully.

 

If I understand what you said correctly...you don't have continuity thru the pink wire (+). Does that mean you do have continuity thru the violet (-)?

 

Did you have voltage on the 2 exposed wires when powered up and system on? Should be less than 5.

 

Well that's a bit aggravating eh?

At this point I would either hold up for the real wire diagram, or I would hook up my tone generator behind the head unit and sniff it out with an inductive amp. But I'm guessing you haven't got those tools...

The only other thing I can think is that I'm wrong about the block diagram I suggested.

 

Check for voltage across them and check each separately to a known good ground...both DC and AC. The prints (wiring diagram) are correct as it came from the Factory specific to his 2010 Prius II with the Base system...before the hack/s got a hold of it that is.