Spin on oil filter

Discussion in 'Gen 4 Prius Accessories and Modifications' started by randomwalk101, Apr 29, 2018.

  1. jzchen

    jzchen Senior Member

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    I'm not comfortable with the bypass valve setting on the third/largest filter. I also noticed the base gasket diameters for 2nd and 3rd are different, which albeit tiny may affect flow.

    If you want higher capacity then why not buy the Ultra version which is good for 20k miles of dirt, basically double duty? Mobil 1 also makes one if you don't trust Fram.

    moto g(7) power ?
     
  2. jzchen

    jzchen Senior Member

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    Gonna try to do suspension work I subscribed to Techinfo and pulled the union spec as 29.5 Nm .
     
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    Newton Meters times .75 (roughly) is foot pounds? That would be 22 foot pounds.

    Could you post a pic or link? Good find. (y)
     
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  4. jzchen

    jzchen Senior Member

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    Here. Doesn't work as good as it used to trying to create your own manual. (Sigh)
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    Thanks for that. The final word on that torque here:

    The 2016+ Toyota 2zr Engine oil filter conversion - Armstrong Family Blog

    Was 20 ft/lb's, but that was without any corroboration from Toyota manuals, just best guess. You might want to try posting that excerpt there, or if that's problematic at least relay the info.

    I'm toying with the idea of retorquing mine (to 22) at next oil change, but with the threads being oily now, maybe best to let sleeping dogs lie lol.

    For the record, it's for a Corolla, but I can't see there being any difference.
     
  6. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    Even though I have an element filter, I'd still be interested in a page count of the reference links. :eek::whistle:
     
  7. jzchen

    jzchen Senior Member

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    @Mendel Leisk I did try to post there. Waiting for moderation. The idea of getting it from the Corolla manual was from his idea for the swap. He mentions the newer Corollas with spin on filters and getting the part #s from that model.

    Aye, I was in a hurry trying to sort the instructions on how to remove and replace the lower control arms but wanted to find the spec like I said I would the next time I subscribed. Yes, I had to go through the engine rebuild pages to find it. But I was quick I new what to look for. (It wasn't under the oil pump nor oil pan sections). I basically just reprinted the one page. It's an attachment, not a link, that's why not all 23 pages....

    moto g(7) power ?
     
    #67 jzchen, Nov 14, 2020
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2020
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  8. jzchen

    jzchen Senior Member

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    Digging up "union" or "union bolt" on PriusChat there are some who note 22 ft-lb on the Gen 2 engine. So I guess it's been the same....

    moto g(7) power ?
     
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  9. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    This is the thread that helped me do a vin check on my cars filter type. lol

    jzchen thanks - With my first subscription, I noticed manual orgainization was a bit hard to follow.
     
    #69 vvillovv, Nov 14, 2020
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2020
  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    I think the "manuals" went off the rails with the demise of the physical edition. 2nd gen Repair Manual is excellent, 3rd gen is a mishmash and 4th Gen is MIA.
     
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  11. jzchen

    jzchen Senior Member

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    RM is Repair Manual. Use the search function. Worked well for me this time, but you have to tinker with your choice of key words. Doing so for German automakers makes this feel a lot easier I guess. (But to be honest $15.xx gets me only 1 hour at Porsche, so a lot more rush than with Toyota. And some of their hyperlinks like the blue “INFO” buttons sometimes don’t work).

    Sadly as time went on the repair manuals just kept getting bigger and bigger that they stopped producing them on paper. I only got EWD for the ‘12 Prius v.

    But even though I spent hours figuring out the Toyota way of removing the right lower control arm, yanking that under cover and taking a look I’m just going to undo the three bolts to the oil filter housing and remove it! So funny the Toyota way of dropping the subframe might cost me days of work and need an engine lift.......
     
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  12. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    Just to clarify: Toyota recommends to remove sub-frame for clearance when replacing lower control arm? But removing the oil filter housing probably negates that need?

    Too, IIRC someone (British?) posted a video where he loosened or partially removed passenger end of engine mount, jacked up (or lowered?) the engine an inch or two, for same reason.
     
  13. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    Could be one reason 4th Gen is off the charts is all the computer modules. Might also be way Toyota recommends a steady speed for best results with all that data processing.14 ECM'a?
    My last paper RM is 06 honda, Didn't open it till 13 but than needed electrical besides..

    I noticed those 3 10mm hex on the housing when I was in that area too. Looks easy enough to an untrained eye. I'm just glad only a small amount of oil comes out with the front jacked and filter removal.
    I like the paper element idea, I already have a bunch of spin ons drying out in a catch pan, while I figure out what to do with them next.
     
  14. jteran5

    jteran5 Active Member

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    Came across this thread months ago and wanted to use larger oil filter. I ended up using the XG4386 which is the filter that is half an inch longer. I don't do the work myself as I don't have a driveway or lot to work on my car so took it to a shop. Just gave them the supplies and they handed the car back without any comment. I asked the technician if the oil filter had any fitment issues and he just said "nope. Fit fine" 20210306_232558.jpeg

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  15. jzchen

    jzchen Senior Member

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    Yikes! I didn't see your question until now. Didn't mean to ignore you! Sorry.

    I can't remember the exact details on the Toyota instructions. But they didn't pan out for what I was trying to do, which was to install some polyurethane bushings into the LCAs to try to get the car caster within spec.

    The driver side looks like the front bolt would clear but it doesn't. So the manual was wrong about that. The passenger side clears after pulling the oil filter bracket. No need to drop the subframe to get it out.

    You could probably try to jack the engine/transmission to have clearance for the left side is my guess. I didn't want to risk damaging anything so I didn't try. If you replace the rubber bushing in the rear position with a polyurethane bushing I found it impossible to get the right LCA back in. So I ended up dropping the subframe. The whole subframe removal is well documented. It is safe until the last two bolts then you put your support jack(s) and use it/them to lower it down. The trick is I loosely reinstalled the LCAs prior to raising the subframe back up.

    The key aspect to this job is caster alignment. With little over 30k mi on the odometer I was quite annoyed that the car wouldn't align. I had one well respected mechanic tell me they'd need to put it on a special alignment machine and pull/bend the frame straight. Having done this job I can tell you it's simply reaching the last step in dropping the subframe (aka rear carrier) and just adjusting it's position and tightening it back in place. You can see where it marked on the car frame and there is a special alignment tool to line up the subframe to the proper position. I couldn't wait it was out of stock and was almost a month longer I just put it back around where it sat originally and let my offset bushing do the work. Only thing necessary to adjust caster is to remove a whole bunch of things and adjust the subframe position. No replacement parts and no bending/pulling anything. (Basically just all labor).

    moto g(7) power ?
     
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