Spin on oil filter

It's funny between the two there is only like a 10 cent price difference..lol I'd like to use the newer revision honestly but the 15609-0T060 is what is used with all the how-to's online/youtube for this. I'd be super annoyed with myself thinking I'm smarter than that and getting the 15609-0T070 and finding out that something has changed or the placement of holes/oil orings..etc. were slightly off...lol


I typed in the 0T070 part number on the lexus site and look at this:


But if I put in the 0T060 part nothing pops up. The even funnier thing is that this change appears to be on 2017 CTs and not previous years.... soooooooooooo, I'm more than likely going to order the 0T070 part number that's mentioned in this thread because it's the newer version and it's coming up on the diagram above...

BTW:
Not sure what moderated means?

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

I suspect they ALL fit; not sure why they keep churning out the fresh part numbers, presumably all with slight tweaks. The …37060 one I got (post #23) has been fine.

 

That's what I'm thinking as well. I just ordered it along with two different size oil filters. I'd prefer the larger one to be honest and from the pictures posted before and in other threads looks like there should be no issues using it, but I also got the recommended slightly shorter one just to see. I figure for $4 it's ok to experiment but both will eventually be used..lol

Great thread! Appreciate all the info. It's a shame that the CT forums are pretty much dead for some reason. :-(

Also ordered a fumoto valve so that way oil changes are even easier. I have that or a Stalhbus valve on our German cars and they are nice. No spills/drips and just makes oil changes a lot easier.


-Nigel

 

Welp quick update. Got the stuff on the weekend. Super fast shipping from McGeorge. They are in Richmond VA, I'm in Gainesville VA. But they are still cheaper by a lot compared to the dealer that is 10 minutes from my house... go figure.

Got the revised part number listed in this thread and everything appears fine. I do like the triangle part that comes to a point so when you unscrew the oil filter it will drip down and make cleaning easier. This was a nice revision. The 15609-0T060 part number that has been floating on the CT forum and FB group all reference that number so I'm telling them to get the newer 15609-0T070 part number.

Also plan on using the larger oil filter YZZF1. Has no clearance issues with anything.
Coupled with a fumoto valve and now oil changes are tool-less nothing special required! w00t w00t!




-Nigel

 

You will absolutely love having the spin-on option! I just changed my oil today. Sometimes I had to use my extra large pliers to loosen it, but once it's loose, it continues to spin fast. And putting in a new one is also easier. No gasket to line up or threading not going in right. Its just so much better all around.

 

I performed this conversion today on my 2016 Prius. Everything went very smoothly with the exact parts list as in #84 -- I am now using the longer YZZF1 oil filter with two neodymium magnets at the end of the spin-on filter. I also did a Motor Medic Motor Flush (which surprisingly didn't do anything, with the oil coming out clear even at 70K miles) and switched to Mobil1 0W16.

One tip is that if you turn the wheels all the way to the right, you don't even need to take off the wheel and can use an wobble socket extension plus a long extension plus a breaker bar to get the four screws off.

 

2016 Corolla works, too.

 

As far as I know, for the part where the base of the oil filter makes contact with the casting:

• 15609-0T060: is fully round.
  
• 15609-0T070: has a tear-drop shape to help direct the oil when removing the filter.

 

Most users' here will not likely have a 12mm Allen hex wrench to tighten the filter adapter.

That can easily be done with any 12mm hex head bolt or a bolt and nut; the nut tightened with a ratchet and a socket.

If one does not mind damaging the bolt, it can be held in a Vise Grip or a set of Channellocks.

 

Good job! I converted my wife's 2017 Prius to use the spin-on in August 2022 and, so far, no leaks. (When I was searching for prices, Amayama was, by far, the cheapest option, even with shipping from the Middle East.)

 

Definitely. This was my order (attached), stripping out the two wiper blades, under $100 CDN, all-in with shipping. Say ~$75 USD. Existing bolts are fine; no need to replace.

This place does a lot of good things, but their spin-on conversion "kit" is a tad over-priced, at $185 USD:

https://hybridpit.com/oil-filter-conversion-kit-for-toyota-prius-v-2zr-engine.html

 

a lot of cars have similar filter adapters I learned. I replaced the o rings on both my 03Ford and my 96 Toyota truck. I think I got the bigger set than this for $50, but I think it’s worth getting a hex bit set for future too. The older model Toyota trucks have exactly the same system with a hollow bolt as a Ford. They even took the exact inner oring same size, the one that sometimes hardens and cracks. This allows the oil to drain out of the system back to the oil pan even with an oil filter mounted base up. Causes more start up rattle.
Of course before I got a whole set I went to the local hardware store and paid $10 for a single 12 mm hex key. Never used it. My 2020 Prime has the adapter with the point.
Hex Bit Socket Set, Metric, 13-Piece - Capri Tools

 

My 2015 Prius IV had the replaceable oil element inside the spin on plastic housing. I hated that thing. The service writer at Toyota was less than helpful regarding the difference in filters. In my research it is apparent to me at least that it is perfectly fine to use either a YZZF2 or a YZZN1 on the current crop of Prii. Apparently the N1 is a little shorter than the F2. I imagine it makes for a couple 2 or 3 tablespoons of oil difference of capacity.

 

What are people doing with their old cartridge adapters?

 

I stuck mine inside my parts cabinet in case the new one had issues...so far, nothing....it's still sitting in my cabinet!

 

Just hanging on to it; for what I don’t know.

 

It looks to me like there is no anti drain valve anywhere in the outlet passage to the block. Don’t have one to look at. Which means to me the valve in the spin ons is not so critical. Unless people say they hear less start up noise after the engine isn’t run for a long time, after the conversion.

 

Oil filter is positioned at the bottom of the engine. Nowhere to drain but into it?

CPH2551 ?

 

Gravity acts on the oil in the full galleries above the oil filter, and siphoning effects would move oil through the housing without an anti drain back valve. It has to go through the oil pump. With thinner oils on the newer models maybe draining is more of a problem, especially in a Prime where the engine isn’t started every use.