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Starts & stalls - + codes - HV drained?

Discussion in 'Prius v Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by svldvc, Jan 13, 2023.

  1. svldvc

    svldvc Member

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    I got a 2012 Prius V from car auction.
    Car been sitting probably for months.

    Car already has a rebuilt HV battery pack in there so I'm guessing the cells aren't that old.
    HV battery showing fully drained.

    The 12v battery is showing 100% charge with my battery charger.

    I can't get they car running.
    Car starts up and immediately dies.
    Video here:

    https://youtube.com/shorts/WHz-n_Y6hhs?feature=share

    Code scanner shows issue with MAF sensor.
    I bought the spray and cleaned it well with the connectors. Also cleaned the throttle body well.

    Please help.
    704-946-6676
     

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  2. svldvc

    svldvc Member

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    Some pics of the car
     

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  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Patron saint of newly poured sidewalks

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    What's the miles?

    What does the state-of-charge for the battery show, on the dashboard?

    Download Dr Prius app and see what it thinks of the hybrid battery. Just do the easy test for starters, which can be done with the car "On" (two pushes of start button without foot on brake pedal). Looks like this:

    D92626D7-B06C-4567-8BD6-9A3BAAED10AD.jpeg
     
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Generally, we can be more helpful when you give us the actual codes in your post, instead of paraphrasing them.

    There is one obvious problem in your video, though. You are showing the throttle body naked, without the air supply doctwork attached to it.

    The mass airflow sensor is in that ductwork. In your video, I don't know where that ductwork is exactly, but I'm sure the air flowing into the throttle body is not coming through it, so no matter how clean the MAF sensor may be, the airflow measurement is completely wrong. ;)
     
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  5. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Keep in mind, the HV battery is what spins the engine for starting, so if the engine is/was spinnng, the HV battery was good enough to do that. It may be the battery is drained due to trying to unsuccessfully start too many times.

    It will be important to correct the root cause of the "no start" condition prior to the HV battery being completely drained. At this point, you're running out of tries.

    You need three things: air, fuel and spark. I would verify as much as I could prior to trying to start it again.
     
  6. svldvc

    svldvc Member

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    Thanks... I'll try to get that app.. Wasn't aware it existed.

    I uploaded codes already. Here they are again in the image.
     

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  7. svldvc

    svldvc Member

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    MAF sensor is plugged in in and is plugged into top cover of the air box. I just took out the bottom half of the air box to access the throttle body to see if it even moves open at all at start ups but it doesn't appear so... So maybe bad throttle body??
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Patron saint of newly poured sidewalks

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    As @ChapmanF noted, the MAF code could be due to the partial disassembly? Too, codes will “linger”, even when fault is rectified.

    what’s the miles?
     
  9. CR94

    CR94 Senior Member

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    If the HV battery is truly "fully drained," you won't be able to start the engine until that's rectified. However, the sound of the engine being spun during starting attempts sometimes fools people into believing the engine is running under its own power during that brief period.
     
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Seriously, in the video linked in post #1, the throttle body is drawing straight from the free air above it. It makes no difference if the MAF sensor is plugged in, or plugged into the top cover of the air box, if the air going into the engine is not going through it.

    In diagnosing an engine problem, any time there's a small vacuum leak anywhere downstream of the MAF sensor, that's called an "unmetered air" problem: the MAF reading isn't accurate for all the air going into the engine, because some air is entering downstream.

    What your video shows is an "unmetered air" problem taken to its logical extreme: all of the air entering the engine is unmetered!

    Your code screenshot in that post shows nothing but permanent codes. Permanent codes are around because the corresponding issues were detected at some time in the past. They will stay around until you get the engine started and make enough normal drives for the ECM to convince itself all those things are now fixed.

    The car is still trying to crank the engine, so it hasn't given up on that for low battery charge yet. You should be able to check the battery state of charge.

    The throttle opening isn't large for starting, so I'm not thinking there's a throttle body problem. But that cranking sounds very clattery. Have you checked all the basic things (compression, fuel delivery, spark)?

    It's worth mentioning that an engine will sound awfully clattery if run on a severely lean mixture—not enough fuel being injected—and that may be the mixture you get if the ECM is trying to match the fuel volume to the mass of air flowing through the MAF sensor, and the air isn't going through there.
     
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  11. svldvc

    svldvc Member

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    Okay, I'm running out of time and knowledge to get this car running. I was supposed to fix it quick and take it with me to TX for work.
    But I think I'll just be selling it off instead....I think I have around $5.4k into it.

    Thank you all who posted and tried to help.
     
  12. svldvc

    svldvc Member

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    if anyone knows anyone who might be interested in taking over this project, pass them through to me. Thanks.
     

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  13. svldvc

    svldvc Member

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    **FIXED IT GUYS***

    After I took out the whole airbox AGAIN for he 3rd time I noticed below throttle body there was a hose detached and dangling. It appeared it was connected to some small 90* elbow knee to some spout to the left side of the hybrid inverter/converter and the tube goes below the throttle body. So I assume that hose was sucking in air therefore bypassing MAF and that's why throttle body was acting all crazy when starting up.

    After I connected that hose. The car fired up right away even though my HV battery was fully drained and it started charging up my HV battery and now it's full charge!

    Wow, wow, wow!!!
    What a lesson!!

    Thank you for all your input guys!
     
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  14. svldvc

    svldvc Member

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    Your post really saved me as I started looking around EVERYWHERE to see where I could find a crack of some sort where unmetered air might be getting sucked into the system before the MAF or elsewhere and that's where I found a dangling small hose under the throttle body that was sucking in air.

    thanks so much!!!!

    My car is fixed now!!!
     
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  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    (y) Yup, it's easy to get an unmetered-air situation, with enough little hoses to remember to connect.
     
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  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Patron saint of newly poured sidewalks

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    I was browsing through the beginning of the 2nd gen Repair Manual; this is of interest:

    upload_2023-1-18_11-14-42.png

    Besides ID'ing where they go, they're a big flag, saying "hey, don't forget me".

    I neglected to reconnect the PCV hose connection to intake manifold a few weeks back, btw...
     
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  17. Air_Boss

    Air_Boss Senior Member

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    Take photos...
     
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  18. svldvc

    svldvc Member

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    What the hell!?
    The car won't start again after 1 week.
    These are the codes it gives.
    Not sure how many of those are "old" codes that need to go away after you drive the car certain distance..
     

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  19. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    All 7 of them ... that's what the display means by 'permanent' codes.

    It's not really all about driving a certain distance. There's a specific confirmation driving pattern for each code, needed for the monitor self-test to run and confirm that code's been resolved. Some of the patterns are simple and quick and some are long and involved. If you're patient you can just keep driving and eventually you should hit all the driving conditions needed and they'll all have gone away, but it's not anything like drive one certain distance and they all get cleared. If you're impatient, you can look up the confirmation driving patterns for each code in the repair manual, and drive those patterns on purpose.

    None of this, of course, explains why your car didn't start. That'll have to be another part of the story.
     
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