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Startup/Shutdown Sequence Collapse. Won't Start.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by AndrewTubbiolo, Nov 12, 2021.

  1. AndrewTubbiolo

    AndrewTubbiolo Junior Member

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    Hi Folks:

    Been having this problem get worse for some time now. I've been bridging the problem by monitoring it with a DVM and making use of a Lion jump start kit. With an increasingly frequent occurrence I've noticed both the startup and shutdown sequence collapsing. Everything just turns off and you won't hear the full sequence of relays or displays and cabin lights. On startup the main sequence is the HUD comes up, the radio comes up (usually having lost the last channel but sometimes not), and you don't hear the relays in the traction battery kick in. Then everything shuts down. Another lost sequence is on shutdown which usually has quite a few relays click and a sequence of interior lights coming on. In a collapse you'll hear the relay in the traction battery click then then everything collapses.

    In order to restart the vehicle I'll have to use a Li-ion jump kit. Sometimes startup up is very troublesome. The HUD will come up, and the radio will as well. The traction battery sometimes won't click in and the system shuts itself down. During this intermediate state, I get the full Christmas tree light display on the HUD. Sometimes the radio will cycle its power several times, and when this happens I won't get a successful start. The brake may
    force itself out of being pressed before shutting itself down. It may take several re-jumps before I can hear the relay in the traction battery kick in and I probably will get a successful startup and the car will drive. A recycle of the jump system requires me to disconnect the L-ion kit and reattaching it. It has it's own set of relays.

    Thinking this might be an AUX battery issue I've been checking the jump terminal voltages before a start and after a shutdown and I'm seeing normal voltages of 12.5 to 12.7 volts. During some drives I've been using a limited functionality OBD2 reader that displays the 12.5V bus voltage and I see it going all the way to 14.2V, so I think the AUX charging system is working. Complicating that, after the shutdown collapse that just happened, I monitored 2.5V on the jump terminal on a verified DVM.

    I'm thinking it's a relay/contactor in the traction battery getting sticky and requiring more current to switch. Or another relay in the chain. Of course this 2.5V reading might complicate that conclusion. Perhaps the aux battery really is bad. I got the first battery in Jan 2021, but had to swap it out in May on warranty replacement. Did I get unlucky again?

    Anyone have any insights on this? Is there a good schematic of the power relay system and a description of the startup and shutdown sequences?

    Andrew Tubbiolo
    2005 Prius
    48 MPG 257000 miles.
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    it's possible, maybe you need a load test. how did you diagnose the first bad battery?
     
  3. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    To me it very much sounds like a 12 V battery that is past its use-by date.

    Go and get a proper load test done at a auto store or DIY if you have a consumer battery tester.

    I think the results of testing the battery will speak for itself.
     
  4. AndrewTubbiolo

    AndrewTubbiolo Junior Member

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    I did a load test at the auto parts store. I had similar issues, but I could see low voltage on the battery back then. Most of the time, my voltage tests show 12.5V to 12.7V.

    Andrew
     
  5. AndrewTubbiolo

    AndrewTubbiolo Junior Member

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    I tested the car again this AM. 2.1V at the jump terminals. I used the L-Ion kit to charge the system to life so I could open the hatch back. After disconnecting the charge kit, I disassembled the hatchback so I could reach the aux battery and it showed 12.6V. So some sort of electronic equipment lies between the aux battery and the charge terminal? Mechanical connections were good. Looking forward, I could see the FOB beacon indicator on the hud. Wondering if the car might start, everything collapsed as soon as I pressed the brake pedal. The voltage at the jump terminal 1.8V. I'll have to disassemble the back end to try this again so I can look at the battery terminals again. Maybe the aux battery can only hold a surface charge and several of the plates are broken collapse on any appreciable current pull?

    After using the L-Ion jump kit to recharge the system I disassembled the hatchback to get back at the aux battery. I disconnected the L-ion jump kit before checking the battery terminals. The jump terminals read 1.8V. I then checked the hud and it was blank. The battery terminals read 12.6V. Sometime between me traversing to the front of the car to re-check the jump start terminal, something kicked in and now the jump terminal read 12.6V. I was able to do several power cycles on the car. So the question is what lies between the aux battery and the jump terminal?

    Andrew
     
    #5 AndrewTubbiolo, Nov 13, 2021
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2021
  6. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    There’s many mechanical connections and a fuse between the jump and the battery. The fuse is in the black plastic assy that sits on top of the battery,

    The one most people have trouble with is the ground lead from the battery neg to the chassis.

    Take the 12 volt battery out.
    You will need to take it out anyway it’s probably sitting in water. You need to pull the rubber plug inthe bottom of the hole check with flashlight to see how rusted out that hole is.Clean and Paint if necessary.

    Before you take out the battery unplug the 2 power leads from the black plastic assy. Big lead is the jump point drop the other smaller lead is 12 volt sensing line to inverter. Then no sparks when taking the battery out.
    Just depress there white lock tabs and gently pull out.

    Examine battery closely for damage. Sandpaper all terminals and chassis ground point on chassis then clean and grease up all connections.

    Taking the battery out will reveal your loose connection or the battery itself is failing badly under load. That’s easy to test. With car OFF measure dc volts at jump. Remember that,
    With car off turn on headlights in high beam. While lights on what’s the voltage at the jump point?
    Should not drop at all. Anything more than one volt drop something wrong with interconnect or you just have a bad battery.

    BTW I would never ever jump start a G2 Prius. Seen so many badly damaged on this site from jumps. The 12 volt buss on this car does not tolerate shenanigans.
     
  7. AndrewTubbiolo

    AndrewTubbiolo Junior Member

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    No water in the battery well. Just looked at it. all mechanical connections survived a pretty powerful tug test. Anywhere I could find a schematic of the 12V system? The battery was new in May 2021. It seems fine.

    Andrew
     
  8. Aegean

    Aegean Active Member

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    Do you see sometimes momentarily the triangle light when you start? If yes battery is probably done.

    Does the auto function on driver window works normal after restarts? If not you might have a lose connection losing 12v power.

    Are your 17 grounding points clean and tight? See page 56, 58 and 60 of this manual for the 17 ground points.
    https://attachments.priuschat.com/attachment-files/2016/07/110280_Wiring_Diagrams.pdf
     
    #8 Aegean, Nov 13, 2021
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2021
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  9. AndrewTubbiolo

    AndrewTubbiolo Junior Member

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    I'll check this out. Thanks.

    Andrew
     
  10. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    FINALLY! Someone mentioned the ground connection. First thing you check with those symptoms (good voltage at battery and low at front jump points) is the battery terminals. Next you check the ground wire connection from the battery to the body. Those are by far the most likely possible causes.

    Beyond that, there are other places where connections could get loose or corroded, but they are far less likely.
     
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  11. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    correct.

    It will throw that red triangle real fast momentarily when the battery during start dips below 10 volts I think. I have seen it. It’s very noticeable as it’s the only light that does not light during normal startup bulb check.
     
  12. AndrewTubbiolo

    AndrewTubbiolo Junior Member

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    Checked the ground connections in the back around the aux battery. Gosh everything was tight.

    Andrew
     
  13. AndrewTubbiolo

    AndrewTubbiolo Junior Member

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    One more observation. I was able to connect the jump Li-Ion battery, but disconnect it from the system before attempting a start. And it was a successful start. Again, I think something lies between the aux battery and the rest of the system. Obviously I need to look over a schematic to understand what's going on here.

    Andrew
     
  14. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Yes it’s quite a mystery.
     
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  15. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Tight and clean? You have to disconnect and inspect to be 100% sure. If it's tight and clean, then it sounds like something is loose somewhere else. That's when it can get challenging.
     
  16. AndrewTubbiolo

    AndrewTubbiolo Junior Member

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    Tight and clean. Nice metal on metal connections.

    Thanks.
    Andrew
     
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  17. Aegean

    Aegean Active Member

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    There are 2 suspect grounding points behind the fuse box under the hood. EE and EF on the wiring diagrams. How do they look?