1. Attachments are working again! Check out this thread for more details and to report any other bugs.

STEERING EFFORT WAY TOO HARD

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Dxta, Aug 13, 2017.

  1. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2016
    1,932
    766
    0
    Location:
    Lagos
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Hi everyone.
    While backing the garage this yesterday, I felt my steering hard to steer. I also notice this, when I'm about to park the car, as I slow down.
    The PS light is on; scanned the car, and got C1533:EPS malfunction.

    RESUKTS OF MY DIAGNOSIS
    1. I got a donor EPS module and replaced it with, it didn't work.

    2. I have tested the resistance readings on the U, V and W phases of the electric motor wiring harness connected to the EPS module, I got OL(no readings registered on my DVM). (I mean the U, V, and W phase motor current output should be below 1ohm. But nothing was registered on DVM).
    This kind of points me to assume the power steering electric motors must have an open circuitry problem.

    3.
    **Power ground-body be below 1ohm.
    I got this correct.

    **B+ to power ground.
    Standard: 10-14V
    Result: B+., I got value close to voltage of the auxiliary battery.
    But what I just didn't get was there was battery power as I connected the DVM to (B+ and power ground) on the connectors.
    But immediately I did connect the positive red lead to the B+ connector pin, and grounded the black lead to a good ground on the car body, I registered B+ equals to the auxiliary battery voltage. When I inter charged the leads, connecting the red lead of the DVM to red pole on auxiliary battery, and the black lead of DVM on the power ground of the EPS module connector, I got the same B+ voktage.
    My question is aren't there supposed to be 0volt on that ground?
    Y I'm I not getting 10-14vokts when I connect both leads to the B+ and power ground pins?

    **Ignition ON - power ground.
    Standard: 10-14V
    Results: Got some volts, that was equal to auxiliary battery.
    For instance, when I got 8.65V at the auxiliary battery, I got something lower at the designated connectors, when I measured the voltage (it was 8.40V).
    Does this mean there's a short circuit problem somewhere, that's drawing that current on that circuit?

    ** For the U, V and W phase motors current output resistance readings, I got no readings at all (OL).
    Standard: Below 1ohms.

    My conclusion is that there's a short circuit problem on the EPS harness, and also the EPS motor permanent magnet coils must have burnt out as a result of overheating, and that's y I might be getting no resistance readings from the 3-phase windings.

    What do you suggest I do?

    PS: I'm trying rip through the EPS harness to check for traces of shorts/open circuit failures.

    Thanks everyone!
     
  2. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2016
    1,932
    766
    0
    Location:
    Lagos
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    II



    PS: All test methods was from ALLDATA.
     
  3. 'LectroFuel

    'LectroFuel Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2016
    880
    673
    0
    Location:
    San Juan Capistrano, CA
    Vehicle:
    2018 Tesla Model 3
    Model:
    N/A
    You posted in the gen 2 forum, but your profile says you have a gen 3. You'll get more responses if you post in the correct forum.
     
  4. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2016
    6,102
    5,813
    0
    Location:
    Columbia, SC
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    Did you really say that you got 8.65v when you measured the 12V battery?
    If that is really what you got, maybe that should be at the top of the list to correct. Fix the obvious first, right?
     
  5. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2014
    2,002
    745
    0
    Location:
    Finland
    Vehicle:
    2004 Prius
    Is this Gen 2 or Gen 3 Prius?

    Difference between the voltage at the battery and voltage seems normal. But voltage is way too low!
    With low voltage all kinds of problems will happen. Charge the 12V battery, or replace it. Or connect other 12V battery to jump start terminals (if the battery is connected to other car keep it turned OFF).

    Where did you get the idea that there was short circuit? It just sounds like you have open in the steering motor coils or in wiring going to it.

    But first check how the system works with correct 12V power. And then recheck the resistance of motor coils. If they’re still bad go through the wiring to them and/or check the resistance at the motor end. If the motor is bad used part should be ok as this is rare part to fail (at least on gen 2).
     
  6. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2016
    1,932
    766
    0
    Location:
    Lagos
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    II
    I'm sorry, its supposed to be gen2, and not 3.
     
    'LectroFuel likes this.
  7. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2016
    1,932
    766
    0
    Location:
    Lagos
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    II


    ****I tested the battery with a battery analyser, and discovered that the battery was bad.
    Replaced it with a known good one, and the steering is still terribly hard.

    Carried out resistance and voltage readings as I did in my earlier posts, discovered that it was OK(meaning, battery voltage at source was almost equal to power source at the EPS power connectors, and same at the power ground).
    Conclusion here was that battery is OK, and resistance readings were intact.

    At the EPS DC-DC converter, I tested for continuity on the wiring harnesses that connects to the EPS module, and the steering gear phase motors.
    All tested below 1ohms.
    Removed the DC-DC converter for the steering, and checked the connectors for rust. All were OK.

    My final conclusion would be to replaced the steering gear. Reason being, it makes a clunking kind if noise, when it is steered.
    I forgot to include that in my earlier post.

    Thanks for your time.
     
  8. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2016
    1,932
    766
    0
    Location:
    Lagos
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Yea
    Yeah!
    I realised that the battery was bad, because each time I try starting the car, immediately the dash lights come on when I press the button to IGN, the dash light suddenly dies blinks and dies down.

    I have replaced the battery with one from a donor car.
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    23,332
    15,111
    0
    Location:
    Indiana, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    Unless the model sold in Lagos is very different, the Gen 2 steering motor is not three phase. It's an ordinary DC motor with two leads, and a commutator with brushes.
    emps.png
    So that leaves a question, if you thought you were measuring U, V, and W phase wires from a three-phase steering motor, I wonder what circuits in the car you were actually measuring?

    -Chap
     
    edthefox5 likes this.
  10. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2016
    1,932
    766
    0
    Location:
    Lagos
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Would
    Would ha e to recheck that circuitry again then
     
  11. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2016
    1,932
    766
    0
    Location:
    Lagos
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    II
    You were right. I was testing something else.
    I rescanned the car, and got a C1568, instead of the initial one that was there (C1533).

    I really appreciate everyone's inputs.
     
  12. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2016
    1,932
    766
    0
    Location:
    Lagos
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Thanks everyone.
    The issue has being resolved.
    This what I discovered during troubleshooting and ...
    1. Orange power cable supplying power to the EPS DC-DC converter was not connected to the relay main assembly at the battery pack.
    2. Calibrated the torque sensor, and all was solved.

    Regards