Suspension component torque specs?

You are doing the 2012 Prius V, correct?

 

Dang.

 

The torque specifications are in the Repair Manual, available by subscription to techinfo.toyota.com, and also in the ChiltonLibrary service, to which many public libraries sponsor free access for their patrons.

The “Specifications” section has separate tables for the front suspension (23 items) and rear suspension (13 items). Each specification is also repeated with the assembly or installation steps in which it is used.

 

This looks interesting:

http://caphector.com/atoyota/TableOfContents/TISSearchandReplaceInstructions.txt

 

Just skimming through it, it's not easy, making my head spin. And to be fair, Tech Info is a live document, maybe being updated.

Maybe that's how the currently available pdf "manuals" are made?

And: that page is pretty old I think. I did copy-and-paste it though, and made note of the address.

 

I’ve put a Dura Go and a Moog on our 2010, so I’ve tested some of them out.

Moog is loud after 8 k miles and the Dura Go is still quiet.

But I had a fitment issue with the passenger side as the machining tolerances weren’t right .

So a bit of a crap shoot, but better than the ones that were in there for now.

 

IIRC people are seeing very similar markings on the Timkin, ie: it might be Toyota is just rebadged Timkin??

SKF sounds very familiar, from my conveyor days.

 

Don’t forget 2 axle nuts .

Top tip for this job: drill out the old hub nut prior to removal. Since it is punched on to avoid movement, if you don’t do that, guess what happens to the threads on the axle.

Spent some quality time with a file on the threads after finding that out the hard way.

Good luck with your Timken hub assemblies .

 

I have this in a Amazon (USA) basket for quite some time, a tool for unstaking the hub nut. In a pinch some kind of of punch or even a square-tip screw driver might do?

The above is often blocked by ad-blockers, here's the text info:

Schley Products Toyota / Lexus Axle Nut Unlocking Tool (SLY-65420)

I've seen the dealership just reuse the nut and restake it, typically turning it a bit further. But it seems to me that would entail over-torquing?

What's the socket size btw? And it's 12 point??

Lots of answers here:

And maybe this socket:

 

Boy you Canucks get raked on your replacement parts.

I got 2 replacement hub nuts for $8 a piece at the local toyota dealer .

For the number of times you do the hub assembly replacement, go for a new one.

I just used a chisel to make a wide flat spot that will ensure the nut stays torqued to 150-ish ft pounds.

I’m already out of room in our 2 car garage and for a tool I might only use a couple of times and looks like it’s made with gold bits.

I watched a video before I did ours of a bumpkin using the air gun and impacting for 1.5 minutes to get the hub but off.

He got it off, but never showed what the threads looked like.

But I learned from my mistake.

 

Think I know that video, lol. I linked it once? Interesting guy, anyway.

 

It’s one you won’t forget.

To avoid testing your memory, for your viewing pleasure:

Note the opening pronouncement of “Toyota” and then this being a “gravy job”.

After watching this, I would employ the philosophy of “do as I say, not as I do”.

Enjoy the show.

 

That's Eric O from South Main Auto. I watch him all the time, he doesn't mess around and he is entertaining.

Actually he is best known for his diagnostic work, fixing cars that are brought from dealers that they can't fix.

He says most dealers don't have a labscope and sometimes there is no other way to do the diagnostics without one.

One of his tools is the $10,000 Snap-On Verus and by looking at him you would never thought he had a brain in his head.

 

Eric O, eh?

Hopefully not the Eric O. That was posting here a couple of months ago.

He ended up in my ignored users queue .

He was never wrong, just ask him and his ‘tude .