Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v

Discussion in 'Prius v Accessories and Modifications' started by Tideland Prius, Sep 28, 2018.

  1. Jacob Bonner

    Jacob Bonner Member

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    Just an update on my swap:

    After the water pump ordeal (and high temps still remaining), the dealership recommended that I change the thermostat. I had my doubts about their diagnosis, but replaced it anyway since it's a relatively cheap part. Of course, I drove my car to a parking lot and replaced it myself rather than paying them close to $500.

    I tried to bleed air out of the coolant system again, and for a while it appeared that it was actually regulating the temperature. It got up to 210(f), but then came back down to around 200(f). It alternated in that range for a while. I started to drive it home and after maybe 5 miles of 20-30 mph driving the temperature rose back up to 240(f), so I pulled over and let it cool down. After it cooled I continued my trip back home, only stopping one other time to cool. Obviously there is still an issue with the temperature regulation.

    Here's what I know:
    Last time I tried to bleed air, I had the front lifted up on a ramp (I have heard that this helps purge air)
    Water pump has been changed out (with one that has 47k miles)
    Thermostat is new
    Both radiator fans work (second one kicks on at around 210(f), as it should)

    However, with the heater turned to high inside the car, I have absolutely no heat (or much air pressure at all) coming out of the vents. This leads me to think that the heating issue is related to the heating/ac system. I felt the two heater core hoses after attempting to bleed air, and the bottom one (leading to the heater core) was hot, but the top one (coming from the heater core) was not. The question is whether the heater core is clogged, or if there is some kind of electronic valve, behind the firewall, that is stuck. If so, perhaps it is a fuse that needs to be replaced?
     
  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Now I'm curious which version hybridpit stuffed into the @m3pare gen3 :whistle:
     
  3. Elektroingenieur

    Elektroingenieur Senior Member

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    The main difference between Prius cars with VINs beginning JTDKARFU... and JTDKBRFU... is the model code, and thus the type of HV battery: A means ZVW51, with a Li-ion battery, and B means ZVW50, with an Ni-MH battery. For each model year, I believe the engines were the same for both models; in the catalog, the service parts are all coded “ZVW5#,” meaning they fit both models.

    I suppose that differences in the hybrid system programming or buyers’ preferences or driving habits, for example, could mean that cars of one model or the other tend to have more engine wear, for equivalent mileage, but I have no data to test this hypothesis; perhaps @Ragingfit does.
     
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  4. Jacob Bonner

    Jacob Bonner Member

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    Shortly after writing this I found this video by Ragingfit, outlining the best technique for bleeding air out of the Prius cooling system.



    I copied his method, and sure enough, the rest of the air burped out and I got heat inside the car. I test drove it and it stayed around 190(f)-220(f) (mostly around 210). This still seems a little high, but it's much better than 240(f) at driving speeds of 30mph. And to think that the dealership wanted to charge me $500 for replacing a thermostat rather than just trying to bleed air.... All in all I'm on the road again, and happy. Now I have an interior mold problem (but that's for another day).
     
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  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Funny, I was just thinking of that video; I'm coming up on 10 years this fall.
     
  6. Joe Legan

    Joe Legan Junior Member

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    82056E5B-5067-4ACA-86FE-990A6BB0269F.jpeg 01B56329-FC93-4C50-9FD6-96C68F867E8D.jpeg 0229F92C-1DCB-4A96-9C98-C3B0B8BE97AD.jpeg 939C9668-3110-453E-85CC-A77D8B9E592C.jpeg The engine I got is a B, but the old motor is ready to come out and new one ready to go in. I will try to take photos through out the install process.
     
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  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Looks like you didn't get 4th Gen EGR, which may be for the best. Watch @Ragingfit 's videos (post#1) closely for how he installs 3rd gen EGR. He freespans between exhaust and intake manifold, and needs to knock one nub off the head to clear the EGR.
     
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  8. Joe Legan

    Joe Legan Junior Member

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    I was hoping to use the 4th gen EGR, is there no way to do it?
     
  9. Montgomery

    Montgomery Senior Member

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    While I haven't ventured into this area myself, I have only read about those who have. It is highly suggested you use the 3rd Gen EGR. You will avoid issues afterwards. Again, this is only from what I have read in this thread.
     
  10. Joe Legan

    Joe Legan Junior Member

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    Progress shots
    06E9C65C-D78F-4F00-885E-68ADD13BA836.jpeg 82DB042D-C7DB-43ED-A488-0C88C691A70D.jpeg B8EC026F-6457-4F15-8B8E-27CCFF84CDF1.jpeg E0D0329D-0D20-4B00-9F0D-92B5B64BE11F.jpeg 0165FAF4-3589-451B-A960-2F0348FB5226.jpeg
     
    #410 Joe Legan, May 23, 2020
    Last edited by a moderator: May 23, 2020
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  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yeah 4th gen transplants have run the gamut:

    1. Just using the 4th gen "short block", ie: everything below the head gasket. Everything else is retained from the old 3rd gen engine. The head is best inspected, preferably a close going-over by a machine shop, the valves/seats cleaned up and valve seals replaced.

    @cnc97 was the first to take the plunge (AFAIK), and this was pretty much the route he took.

    It's the least intrusive approach, requires pretty much no mods. I believe some components, the flywheel and adjacent pieces, need to be transfered over from the 3rd gen engine, 4th gen is different.

    2. Use the full 4th gen engine, ie: the block and the head, but stay with 3rd gen EGR system. Also 3rd gen intake and exhaust manifolds, throttle body. This is maybe the sweet spot, especially if the 4th gen is a real spring chicken, off a low mileage crash car. It does require extensive replumb of coolant hoses, some extension of wiring so a sensor can reach it's destination, something like that. @Ragingfit 's videos (post #1 goes into all the details).

    @Ragingfit went this route.

    3. Use the full 4th gen engine, and the 4th gen EGR. I can't recall if the 4th gen intake and throttle body are also used (it's detailed in this thread though IIRC). The 3rd gen exhaust manifold is retained, but the pipe connecting to EGR cooler needs to heated and bent, to suit the different cooler intake flange location/attitude.

    The names escapes me, but at least a couple here have done this.

    There's maybe less coolant hose mods required, not sure? One problem just currently cropping up:

    The 4th gen EGR is possibly larger cross section, and possibly higher flow-rate. The 3rd gen ECU is not expecting this. There are apparent issues, maybe not surmountable, but it begins to beg the question: is it ultimately worthwhile?
     
    #411 Mendel Leisk, May 23, 2020
    Last edited: May 23, 2020
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  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    That's what I think is likely the case (and the details are in this very thread, a page or two back), but so far we have cross-section measurements of the third gen (see #383). We'll be able to confirm this as soon as there are comparable measurements of a 4th gen posted; until then it's safer to say there's some educated guessing going on here.

    4th gen does take the EGR from downstream of the catalytic converter rather than upstream (or so others have reported), where the available pressure would be lower, and a larger valve opening would be needed to get similar flow.

    Also gas taken from after the catalyst has different chemical properties compared to upstream of it, so the Gen 4 ECM programming may be different to account for that too.
     
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  13. Joe Legan

    Joe Legan Junior Member

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    Getting closer, taking a break for some lunch. D7BB5FB4-41DA-4B26-8D64-0916AFB7D809.jpeg 2D611035-7DAC-447E-B762-9FB97CB61A77.jpeg A9571C06-6CC2-4B85-BBDD-5B723C2FE742.jpeg 413B3B13-2331-4DA9-965B-5D8E12DC9B82.jpeg
     
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  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Holy you-know-what, you don't hang around. (y)
     
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  15. Joe Legan

    Joe Legan Junior Member

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    Done for the evening. Still need to get the 6 inch galvanized pipe, oil oil filter, and coolant. Need to hook up a few hoses put air intake on and fire it up!! Hopefully all goes smooth in the morning. I will let you know what happens!!
     
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  16. Montgomery

    Montgomery Senior Member

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    Mr. Legan, hats off to ya!!
     
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  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    And fingers crossed.

    @Ragingfit does an initial voltage test of oil pressure, before actual start up, in one of his last videos, maybe the last. Not sure how critical it is. The voltage reading he got indicated adequate pressure, quite quickly.
     
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  18. Ragingfit

    Ragingfit Active Member

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    I used an ohmmeter to see if the switch opens indicating pressure. My only Prius rebuild died from oil starvation in about 5 miles.

     
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  19. Joe Legan

    Joe Legan Junior Member

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    got it running guys!!
     
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  20. Joe Legan

    Joe Legan Junior Member

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    Well it runs, but runs hot. The water pump that was on the 4th gen. Was locked up so I replaced it with my 3rd gen pump. Still running hot, I am going to replace the thermostat tomorrow.
     
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