Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v

Discussion in 'Prius v Accessories and Modifications' started by Tideland Prius, Sep 28, 2018.

  1. RightOnTime

    RightOnTime Senior Member

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    It’s the rear Main Seal that has a leak which was confirmed when the engine was taken out. Red stuff is Toyota thread Lock which will be replaced once the Block gets back from the Machine Shop
     
    #461 RightOnTime, Sep 29, 2020
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2020
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  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    How many miles, and any ideas why the rear main was leaking?
     
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  3. RightOnTime

    RightOnTime Senior Member

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    It was a 2015 Toyota Prius V with about 150k. Not too sure why it happened, but this is the 1st leak we seen on a Gen 3
     
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  4. Montgomery

    Montgomery Senior Member

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    I'm about 100k miles away from that. Hopefully it never happens to me.
     
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  5. Alexander D

    Alexander D New Member

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    2014 plug in, gen 4 engine, gen 4 egr, gen 3 intake, gen 3 exhaust manifold.
    Also noticed drivability problem and EGR insufficient flow CEL.

    I don't feel like going through what michaud85 went through swapping back to the gen 3 egr, even though I have it sitting in my shed. I just don't like it and I know it's going to be a complete pain.
    I like the ChapmanF's idea of rerouting an exhaust pipe post-cat to the EGR instead. Giving it post-cat lower pressure less sooty air to make it run right? Not completely easy, as it requires making a completely custom 1inch pipe all the way to the egr but it seems like an interesting concept to me.

    Opinions? Would this be able to solve the issue? or is it the opinion that the ECU will still not be happy with the EGR system, and there is no way to make it work?
     
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  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Not sure but if it was me I would revert to third gen EGR, do whatever needs doing with the exhaust manifold to make that happen. If the exhaust manifold can't take any more heating/bending, just replace? 4th gen EGR in 3rd gen is just a headache?

    Ouch, exhaust manifold not cheap. Definitely try heat/bend first:

    Buy genuine manifold for Toyota Prius PHV 3 generation 01.2012 - 12.2016 from Japan - Amayama

    Maybe a cheaper option, for me not showing shipping cost:

    Genuine Toyota 17141-37150 (1714137150) MANIFOLD, EXHAUST - Amayama

    Used one, for $50:

    2014 Toyota Prius V Exhaust Manifold 17141-37150
     
    #466 Mendel Leisk, Oct 1, 2020
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2020
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I had that idea some time ago, before I knew what I know now. EGR gases taken from before or after the cat are different ballgames. The pressure is different, the chemical makeup is different because of the catalytic action, the effect on combustion is different because of the chemistry. An engine, EGR system, and ECM calibration are designed for one, or designed for the other.

    Although I did have that idea at one time, I officially withdraw it. :)
     
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  8. LeviK

    LeviK New Member

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    Hi guys, I’m Levi from KC, MO. I’ve watched all the YouTube videos on the swap and read all the posts here. I just finished a gen 4 swap into my 2012 Prius v that had a blown head gasket. It started but is running rough. Everything is connected where it should be. I am using a brand new gen 3 EGR and valve
    new plugs gapped at 43 thousandths LKAR7BIX-11S
    gen 4 coils
    gen 3 flywheel and damper
    gen 3 wiring
    gen 3 intake

    In video 15 he is testing oil pressure but I can’t see exactly what he is doing. I’ve started it 4 times now but only letting it run for about 5 seconds as I don’t want to mess up the engine. There isn’t a check engine light on currently but maybe it’s because I’m not running it long enough.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks
     
  9. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    After several cycles of starting the engine, there should be no question of oil pressure. If you are concerned about oil pressure, simply unplug the sensor and remove it. Have someone start the engine while you watch the sensor port. If oil is flowing, then obviously you have pressure. Then, after reinstalling the sensor, you can troubleshoot the rough running.
     
  10. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    While the engine is running, you can either unplug the connector at the coil or injector to determine which cylinder(s) are misfiring. Then you can proceed with repairs as needed.
     
  11. LeviK

    LeviK New Member

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    Thanks, I noticed the battery was about 20% charged which I thought could have a big impact so I have been driving it attempting to build the charge up. It’s still misfiring. Not as bad as in the beginning but still there. Yesterday I unplugged each coil and it seemed to run better when coil 4 was unplugged. I swapped coils from cylinder 3 to cylinder 4 and it still acted the same when cylinder 4 was unplugged which ruled out a bad coil but today when I unplugged cylinder 2, 3 and 4 they all made the engine start vibrating slightly but not when I unplugged cylinder 1. I may have to let the dealer diagnose it and see what needs to be done. Slightly frustrating
     
  12. LeviK

    LeviK New Member

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    Guys, are the gen 4 coils being used on your swaps?
     
  13. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    I have been using the Gen 4 coils on my engine since repair with no issue. Plug and play.
     
  14. LeviK

    LeviK New Member

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    I ended up taking it to the Toyota dealer because I can’t figure out the misfire. The tech swapped coils (which I did as well) and spark plugs and it’s still misfiring on cylinder 1. They “think” it’s the computer (ecm). I really need some help figuring this out as I don’t want to put a gen 3 engine back in. Do you or anyone have suggestions?
     
  15. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    If I understand this part correctly, the engine misfires more when 2, 3, or 4 get unplugged. But not when 1 is unplugged. If this is the case, then cylinder 1 needs a compression test. That’s step one. Step 2 is put a different fuel injector in it and see what happens.
     
  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    This old article from AECS has made the rounds before; it's a good read.

    AECS sells fancy diagnostic equipment, and the article is kind of a plug for their equipment, which I guess is fair, and it is probably saltier than anybody wants to buy for DIY. But it gives an example of how subtle some misfiring issues can get, and if you have such an issue, it's possible that finding a shop that (a) has that kind of equipment and (b) knows how to use it might speed matters along.

    If the dealership guys have been saying "well, we swapped some coils and plugs, now who knows, maybe it's the ECM", it's possible that either (a) or (b) is a bit lacking in their operation.
     
  17. LeviK

    LeviK New Member

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    Over the 2 days I was messing with it, it wasn’t very consistent but after taking it to Toyota they said cylinder 1 was the issue so I’m going to do a compression test and swap injectors to see if that helps.
     
  18. LeviK

    LeviK New Member

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    When the service writer called and told me the techs in the shop were scratching their heads wondering how I managed to get a Gen 4 engine in the car and told me that if I wanted it to run right to go back to a Gen 3 I didn’t have much faith in them being able to get very far. I’m going to look at the article you mentioned and I also contacted an independent Toyota tech in my area that branched off from the dealer in hopes he has the right diagnostic equipment to help me out if switching the injectors doesn’t change anything
     
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  19. Ragingfit

    Ragingfit Active Member

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    Same thing happened to me. I brought it in for a recall and they spent an hour trying to figure out how that engine got in there.
    If they'd read the service ticket they would know. So, they don't even read the service tickets.
     
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  20. RightOnTime

    RightOnTime Senior Member

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    This happened to me twice not once with the #1 cylinder not working.

    When unplugging the fuel injector harness for cylinder #1 the single wire inside the connector broke off causing a fault.

    This could be that with heat and age the wire becomes fragile and could easily tear off.

    Let’s see if that helps
     
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