Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v

Discussion in 'Prius v Accessories and Modifications' started by Tideland Prius, Sep 28, 2018.

  1. justdog

    justdog Junior Member

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    I charged 12v over night. It starts car but won't fully rumn motor. Then dies in a couple of rough running swconds. P3190 poor engine power. And P3191engine does not start

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  2. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    Check the PCV hose and see that it’s still securely attached.
     
  3. justdog

    justdog Junior Member

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    I checked. Now 12v tests charged but as soon as I try to push start button whole dash turns off while trying maintenance mode.

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  4. justdog

    justdog Junior Member

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    Man, it's Soo frustrating. Was running perfect all day yesterday

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  5. RightOnTime

    RightOnTime Senior Member

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    Are you still running the original 12v battery? If so what year is your car?


    iPhone ?
     
  6. justdog

    justdog Junior Member

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    2013. No it is not the original battery. I got the car started, was another dumb thing on my behalf! I charge the battery overnight and I went to start car. When I was changing the air filter yesterday, somehow I popped the air tube off of the throttle body. I still think something might be wrong with my hybrid battery I just went on a 50 mile drive, everything was fine but the hybrid battery will not go up past the 3rd or 4th bar.also sometimes when I stop, the motor will not switch to electric mode it will stay idling with the motor on.

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  7. justdog

    justdog Junior Member

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    Another thing, how can I check my temperature sensor, or if I just did a s***** solder job. I'm getting P0177(engine coolant temperature circuit low input)

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  8. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    The low input and the not shutting off go hand in hand. The ECU doesn’t think the engine is at temp, therefore it’s still trying to warm the car up.
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You mean P0117, right?

    It's not a sin to flip around some digits now and then, but it does make information about the codes harder to search for.

    If you search in the Repair Manual for P0117, you'll get right to a section with troubleshooting steps. It helps if you have access to Techstream to show you what the computer thinks the temperature is. Short of that, any generic OBD II reader should do that trick, as engine coolant temperature is a standard parameter.

    If it thinks the temperature is -40° you've got an open circuit.

    If it thinks it's above 140°C (284°F), you've got a short.

    If you unplug your connector from the sensor, and short the two connector terminals together with a wire, you should see a reading of 140°C (284°F) or above.

    If that's not enough to pin down the issue, there are several more pages in the manual where that came from.
     
  10. justdog

    justdog Junior Member

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    Yes. My mistake. P0117. Looks like alot of work just getting to sensor plug. Here it goes. Also, any idea why I get little shock when entering/exiting the car? I'm assuming a ground is not in right place.

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  11. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I my own experience whenever I get little shocks like that, it's in drier weather and has more to do with what I was wearing while sliding across the upholstered seat, and nothing really to do with the 12 V system (which can't really give you a shock you would notice) or the high-voltage system (which is carefully isolated).
     
  12. justdog

    justdog Junior Member

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    Removed intake to egr pipe and noticed the egr valve flange was pressed hard against temp sensor plug. Exposed a little bit of wire. I think this was shorting out the connection. I tried readjusting the best I can. I'm going to have to figure out a fix but for now I just wrapped the piece of wire with a piece of shrink tube and it seems to have solved the problem for now. Drove car 40 mi plus and no check engine light. Still have to address this issue period can temp sensor be moved?
     
    #552 justdog, Dec 3, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2020
  13. justdog

    justdog Junior Member

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    Looks like I have a successful swap! So far I've driven over a hundred miles with no check engine light averaging 47 MPG without bottom covers. Car is running beautifully! I want to thank all you guys for the help!! Wouldn't have been able to do it without this forum! I had a great time and now I'm thinking about shopping for a Prius with a bad motor so I can do it again! Hahaha THANKS GUYS!!

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  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Underfoot

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    Any idea what the problem was? Pinched wire?
     
  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    When it was flaky, was it reading -40°, or above 140°C (284°F) ?
     
  16. justdog

    justdog Junior Member

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    Yes. The egr valve sitting right on top of temp sensor right where the wires come out of the plug. It pinched the wire exposing a little bit of copper and was shorting it out. I still haven't totally fixed it. All I did was put a piece of shrink tube between flange and wire. I am probably going to grind down the flange a little bit to make clearance!
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  17. justdog

    justdog Junior Member

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    Never got a chance to test it. I couldn't even remove temp sensor plug. Didn't want to unhook everything to unplug sensor once I saw bare wire. Thanks for suggestion though.
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  18. justdog

    justdog Junior Member

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    OK guys. One more thing. Car running great. 160 miles. 45 miles gallon. Smelling a little bit of exaust when running heater.

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  19. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Exhaust leak under the hood coming in through the fresh air intake?
     
  20. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Did you have access to any kind of OBD II reading tool, or phone app, etc.?

    Because coolant temperature is an industry-standard parameter, any device of that nature would have allowed you to see what temperature was being read, without any need to disturb or unplug anything physically.
     
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