swapping transaxle

After seeing a mechanic tackle this swap with proper equipment and tools, I can't see how anyone would want to attempt this at home without a lift. It really is a major repair, not for the average Mechanic. There are so many wires/plugs/bolts, it can be quite difficult to keep track. The tutorials make it look easy but there is so much involved once you take on the job.

I can see why Luscious Garage charges $1360 for this job, it's quite labor intensive.

 

I've looked at all the sensors on the transaxle and there are only 3. I've also removed the connectors as one of the connectors on the replacement transaxle is damaged and I have to change it. It's an easy swap, just unplug and plug back. It's not buried inside the transaxle, the electrical connectors are right where you unbolt. I believe they all have 8 electrical contacts to them. I'll have pictures later.

Since the Mechanic is providing all the labor, I'm providing him with all the fluids for the change. There is a supplier in town that has amazing rates for fluids. $17 for SLLC and $6.75 for WS. Can't go wrong with that. I plan to change out all the coolant while this thing is taken apart. I purchased 2 axle seals at the stealer for $14 each.

 

The sensors are buried deep inside the transaxle, you would have to take everything apart to get to it. The question I had about changing the sensor, I may not have understood the seller, he may possibly have meant the connectors are broken. I don't see how the sensors inside can be damaged, it's buried inside.

 

This is taking a bit longer than expected. The transaxle is out of the car but the replacement hasn't been installed yet. The shop was too busy to work on it on Saturday. I think they are continuing today or possibly tomorrow to finish.

I changed out the connectors on the replacement transaxle with the ones from my car. The ones on the replacement were very dirty, it was very easy to swap them out. There was 1 plug that had lots of thick gel on it, looked a bit like thick yogurt. It was a bit pinky/violet in color. Maybe it's used as an insulator.

 

I'm going to be taking this transaxle apart this coming week to get to the MG2 and see the damage inside. I noticed the transaxle had what appears to be a really bad leak around the seal. I looked through all the dealer service records for the car but there was never any mention of a seal leak. It's in a pretty wide area around the seal (really greased up area, uploaded picture). My mechanic said it wasn't a leak in the seal but I can't think where this could be coming from. The engine isn't leaking anything.

 

I have to ask him about the CV boot. I did bring his attention to the grease/debris but he said it wasn't from a leak.


I haven't driven it home yet. I'm thinking it's complete. I went last night and saw the inverter was installed and he only had to put the axles and some other bolts back. I don't want to rush him as he's never done this before and there were lots of wires and bolts. Don't want him to miss any of them.

 

I don't think he'll charge 8 hours to do this swap ever again. It was a learning experience for both of us but he certainly has spent double the hours to do this swap.

 

Alright, I need some help here.

Went to pick up my car tonight and find out the mechanic can't get it to start. He thought I was out of town so he didn't call me to tell me that problem. He said he tried to clear the codes (which didn't show up on his snap-on scanner), he even tried to jump start the car thinking the battery was low.

Anyways, I hooked up my newly purchased MiniVci and got 2 codes. I erased them but one of them came back and won't let me start the car.

Code P0A0D and C1378. The 2nd code I cleared and so far didn't come back. P0A0D won't go away and the car won't start. Some high voltage error.

What do you guys think I should do next?

 

I just read some threads online that points to the hv battery plug not put back properly. I have to try that tomorrow, I don't remember pushing down to lock it in. I just push the plug back in and lifted the orange lever up. Hopefully that's my problem.

 

Yes the mechanic definitely deserves a good tip for a job well done....especially with Chinese New Year around the corner.

The car did start up after pressing down on the HV Battery lever. Runs beautifully, only needs an alignment now. I guess him taking apart everything up front threw the alignment off a bit. Overall it's a very successful swap. No trouble codes came up after 15 minutes of driving.

 

This car is not my car, a friend's car. I just have it as an educational piece. I've been offered the car, I might take him up on it, just have to sell my 2006. I can't have that many Prii's at my house.

To my knowledge the old tranny fluid was the original fluid. The car was purchased used at 80k miles and now has 152k. From that point there was no service to the transaxle fluid. The owner was offered a service at 139k from the dealer to change the fluid, but he declined. I can't find records before 80k. The car is dealer serviced since 80k.

Before doing this swap, I did change out the WS fluid to see if that would fix the issue, however that didn't work. I didn't keep the old fluid but it looked very dirty, the color was not red.

I actually don't know if the fluid was the cause of the failure. The transmission logged a DTC that associated with MG2 failure. I don't think any fluid goes to the MG2. Also there was a TSB I found listed on Luscious Garages blog that addressed the MG2 failure from 2004-2006 and early 2007 models. This is an issue that carries the carb warranty 10yr/150k miles in CA. This car didn't qualify as it is at 153k today.