Synthetic oil - tales of warranty void?

They have to be full of %$%. I had my 5000 mile oil change done the other day and they asked me if I wanted synthetic. I did. When I got the bill, it listed Mobile 1.

 

Mobil 1 meets or exceeds Toyota specs for what oil is required. I don't see how it can void the warranty. Maybe what they mean is if you extend the mileage between oil changes then you might have warranty issues if they can prove you had problems with your engine resulting from lubrication problems due to not doing the oil changes at the Toyota recommended mileage.

If you use synthetic just go with the Toyota oil change schedule. Walmart, Sams, and Costco are the cheapest I've seen for Mobil 1 BTW.

 

I'm going in for my first oil change at my dealership today. When I made the appointment, I asked for Synthetic oil. I was offered a synthetic blend or a full synthetic. I have dealt with this dealership's service department over 4 different Toyota vehicles. I trust they would have said something about a warranty void if that were true.

 

When I did my 5,000 I asked if I brought in my own oil would they deduct that from the bill as they didn't sell synthetic. They said sure, no problem. No speech about using their oil at all.

 

Is there anything to the rule of thumb to wait until after about 15,000 to 25,000 miles before going synthetic to allow the rings to fully seat. Once you go synthetic, you're not supposed to go back, and once you go synthetic, the rings won't seat.

I know in the diesel world it's a known bad call to go synthetic too soon.

 

they wanted to SELL you oil. i guess. why else would they come up with that kind of bull?

 

When I read of this I get really POed.

When will the so called professionals remove their heads from their patoots!? If they walk like a duck, look like a duck, and sound like a duck one expects them to be a duck. Heck, they're being paid to have some knowledge, they need to obtain it. Ok, I'll get off of my soapbox now.

Automotive synthetic is exactly what you should be using, period. I'd find someplace else to change my oil/filter or do it myself, or educate the dealer. Oil/filter changing is easy enough to do and seems purposely designed for owner maintenance.

Furthermore, if you switch to Amsoil 0w30, you can extend the oil change interval to 12,000 miles or once a year for a slight $ savings and a superior oil. Be aware though that you'll still need to change the filter at 5-6000 miles. There is a way to further extend the oil change interval but most folks probably won't do it. It involves a bypass oil filter, which can't be mounted in the Prius (no room for it) and oil analysis at a lab.

FWIW, when I just changed our oil (2nd time) it came out just slightly brown and had been in use for 5 months and 6000 miles. What I do now to further use the oil is to collect all the oil from all of the vehicles, all use the same oil, filter it using a 1u bypass filter, send it out for testing and when the test comes back OK, reinstall at the next scheduled oil change. The filtered oil looks like it just came out of the bottle, but reuse hinges on the analysis. Note that this is only for Amsoil, though MAYBE it'd be possible for the better grades of Mobil1 also. Using this new method I give up the benefit of engine analysis by seeing what's in the engine oil, but it's easier to recycle/reuse all of our oil. Using this method I can keep the oil as clean as if a bypass filter was in every vehicle and recycle/reuse the oil for the $ savings. As long as the tests come back OK the oil continues to be reused no matter how many years or miles is put on it.

And no, this recycling/reuse will not void the warranty either, as long as one doesn't reuse oil that has had the additives (TBN) depleted. That's where the analysis comes in.

Oh, and don't let anyone tell you that Toyota specifys 10w30 and that 0w30 won't do. The first number is basically a relative number that indicates how easy the engine will turn over to start in the cold. A "10" there indicates the engine will cold crank similar to having a 10 weight oil in it, "0" as though a 0 weight oil is in it. The second number is the oil weight and is the important one. Just to maybe muddy the water a little (I hope not) synthetic oil is SO good that one can always go one grade lighter and still have more protection than the specified grade of mineral based oil. Toyota specifies 10w30. 0w30 is better for winter starting while still being a 30 weight oil. For better mileage and while STILL exceeding the engine protection of the Toyota specified 10w30, one can use synthetic 0w20 if that oil is ever made. Right now I don't know of one. No, your warranty will not be voided even if you can at some point find a synthetic 0w20 as it still far exceeds the spec'd oil. Note that I'm discussing synthetic oil here and not mineral based oil.

Sorry for the long post, but it appears it rests on our shoulders to educate the folks who should know this stuff and are collecting $ to know it.

 

In the "old days" it was recommended to wait for things to seat before going to synthetic, but those days are over. If one wanted to, synthetic could be put in on day 1.

I just swap the cars over to synthetic after the mineral based oil has had plenty of time (5000 miles) to flush the metal chips etc, out of the engine and into the filter.

 

Ask them to document that claim. Let us know what they show you (I'd bet that if they can produce anything at all it won't be from Toyota).

 

The owners man states the min. requirements that the mfg. says to use. The man. says to look for oil that has these spec. see the top of the fill cap. Moble is way over what is required.

Which dealer.... Maund? Bet Classic would not do this... if so I will have to have my next oil change done there.. just to get a word in when they try and pull that &*^%$ on me.. I will demand a conference call with their tech and Toyota Corp Tech.. there..now... (sure it won't happen but will make me feel better)

 

I'm quite familiar with by-pass filtration. I used to sell them.

How do you filter the oil? Is 1u a typo or is that the name of some sort of filter?

 

Thats my conclusion too!... unless the whole outfit was a bunch of clueless wonders... my bet is they resented messing with you if they were not going to make any money off the supplies.... sounds like some tire stores I"ve dealt with in the past.

 

Aren't you contradicting your self? In the first paragraph you say it's ok to switch on day 1. In the second paragraph you imply waiting for 5,000 miles to filter out the metal chips.

I believe today's engines manufacturing techniques have eliminated the "metal chips" and other stuff that might have been found in new engines years ago.

Just my 2 pennies.

 

You should also ask them to sell you a bottle of "genuine" Toyota Motor Oil 5W-30, then tell them you're going to send it off to a large professional lab for detailed analysis. Then you will compare the analysis from a comparable Mobil 1 SuperSyn 0W-30/5W-30, etc.

I bet they change their tune pronto.

You should also tell them you've contacted the Customer Service Center about this. That will get their attention.

 

I think it would be only wise and "not wasteful" to at least drive it a couple of thousand or so.. just to get all the little metalic crap that comes with any new engine out. Why throw away good oil if you can use it for a flush?

 

So what are you saying Jayman?... are you pro Genuine toyota motor oil or synthetic?

 

Hehehehe I was actually being anti-Toyota motor oil. Most of the car makers do the standard "low bidder" for oil that is then rebranded to be "genuine."

A virgin oil analysis of Toyota "genuine" 5W-30 vs Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 should reveal major differences in TBN. I'd guess the "genuine" oil only has a TBN of 4-6, which is barely enough for a 5,000-7,000 mile oil change interval.

 

They are full of crap...ALSO they want you to buy theirs so THEY getthe money...Try another dealer