System crashing during simple customizations

Discussion in 'Prime Main Forum (2017-Current)' started by R2Pre2, Jun 15, 2018.

  1. Andyprius1

    Andyprius1 Senior Member

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    Take it to a good battery shop and ask for a 12V reading. A new vehicle should read 12.5 volts or more.
    When in ready it should read 14.5 volts.
    Then bring it to the dealer and see if they get the same readings
    If a new car reads 12V or less, the battery already has been damaged.
    Buy a meter yourself, so you can check. Go to a site and learn how to use it.

    On the HV Battery, it’s more complicated. The Dealer must use a computerized box to check the charge level and it’s current charging. Called a Techsstream. They will not want to do it, unless you pay. And they will offer any amount of BS answers to substantiate thier logic which = non- logic
    One only has to look at previous 12V threads to see how many factors are involved.
    Maybe everything is fine on your car, the Dealers are quite happy to tell you this, WITH NO PROOF !
     
  2. schja01

    schja01 One of very few in Chicagoland

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  3. Elektroingenieur

    Elektroingenieur Senior Member

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    That’s true, but there is also a regrettable tendency on PriusChat to point the finger at the auxiliary (12-volt) battery when it may have nothing to do with the problem. Toyota’s Repair Manual, in the general troubleshooting procedure (“How To Troubleshoot ECU Controlled Systems”), says to check the auxiliary battery voltage, and to recharge or replace the battery if it’s below 11 V. If this threshold is met, it’s better to continue with problem analysis and troubleshooting, perhaps revisiting the battery if another cause is not found.

    For the malfunctions described in post #1, if the car was in READY at the time, and there were no signs of a serious problem with the hybrid system, I think it’s unlikely that the state of charge of either the auxiliary or hybrid vehicle (traction) battery would have been a factor, since the voltage on the 12-volt bus that powers the navigation receiver assembly (head unit) would have been maintained by the DC-DC converter.

    I wouldn’t spend any time investigating the battery until the head unit software is the latest version available.
    The Repair Manual procedure (Power Source/Network: 2ZR-FXE Battery/Charging: Charging System: On-Vehicle Inspection) says the acceptable voltage range is 13 to 15 V. As the New Car Features book notes, “The hybrid vehicle control ECU regulates the output voltage of the DC-DC converter in accordance with the charge state of the auxiliary battery.” It’s not a constant-voltage charging circuit.
    The bulletin, or at least its first revision, was mentioned there by @Tim R in post #35.
     
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  4. Andyprius1

    Andyprius1 Senior Member

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    I’m using past experience and knowledge. But, I do not own a 2016. Nor do I have a 2016 Owners Manual.
    I was only giving the OP approximations. If he desires exact numbers he would go to the Owners Manual.
    Not knowing thee OPs Auto/ Elec background I can only tell him what I would do. Buying a multimeter is of primary importance with a BEV or HYBRID
     
  5. schja01

    schja01 One of very few in Chicagoland

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    I would be glad to post any TSB's I've obtained but I need an OK from the Sysop or Mod first. Don't want to get this board in trouble. The NTSB does not publish them because the TSB's text is owned by the car manufacturer. The snippet I posted falls under "Fair Use" as it's only a small portion for "educational" purposes.
     
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  6. Andyprius1

    Andyprius1 Senior Member

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    I can see you are going to be a great contributor to PC.

    What was the 12V Battery reading?
     
    #26 Andyprius1, Jun 17, 2018
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 18, 2018
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  7. R2Pre2

    R2Pre2 Feel the Force!

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    As mentioned in #19, I think the overall charge of the car was ~75% from the dash readings. I was monitoring what was happening on the 11.6" display, not the dash reading. From replies to this thread and others, there's history with similar crashing / interference problems with other 2018 Prime-Advanced models like mine. PC is so helpful in creating a supportive community to help all of us understand our cars better. I'll continue to monitor the situation, see if I can replicate it, pay close attention if it happens, require it be fixed by the dealership, and continue on enjoying the car, or replace the car if it's a problem.
     
    #27 R2Pre2, Jun 17, 2018
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2018
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  8. SteveMucc

    SteveMucc Active Member

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    The poster was enquiring about the 12V. The number on the display you're talking about is the EV usable range of they hybrid traction battery. The prius has two battery units. The one that powers the wheels is the traction battery. The other is the 12V battery which is used to power the electronics on the car until the engine or traction battery takes over (which then charges the 12V battery). It's the 12V battery that is responsible for powering the electronics when the car is off. However, I fully concur with Electroningeneur. If the car is on, you're getting power from the DC-DC converter (which is charging the 12V at the same time) so if you're seeing resets when the car is ON it has nothing to do with the 12V battery (think old fashioned car... if you're battery is shot, you can jump start it and run the car and everything you want off the alternator, but if you turn it off or stall it you're screwed again).
     
  9. Dudley1030

    Dudley1030 Active Member

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    If you just bought it, take it to the dealer 1st. It's under warranty.
     
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  10. R2Pre2

    R2Pre2 Feel the Force!

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    agreed. will bring this up with the dealership when I get the customizations done and make sure it's handled satisfactorily before the dealer survey is completed.
     
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