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Tackling the "dreaded" hatch lock replacement!!

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by cyberpriusII, Apr 1, 2016.

  1. cyberpriusII

    cyberpriusII Prodigyplace says I'm Super Kris

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    I don't want to do this, but my hatch lock is having some issues. The rubber is off about half of the switch and it seems to work most of the time, but sometimes I have to press it a couple/three times to get it to open.

    This weekend looks like the time. The weather is supposed to be clear (winds up to 50 mph, but for around here that is a gentle summer breeze :p).

    Anyway, I have read Patrick Wong's Primer, as well as several other threads, viewed all the YouTube vids I could find, turned to the east and west and threw handfuls of herbs in the air to bless my efforts. But, seriously, have begged and borrowed tools, as well as the help of a couple of friends, but any special "gotcha's" I should know about. I have no garage and limited time.

    At the moment I have the correct part from the dealer. I bought replacement screws for the smart key switch as well as the actual "rubber coated latch" switch (total cost of about $1.75). I have screw extractor stuff, drill, etc. as well as a couple of folks who know how to use them (although I plan to use them myself -- with help -- if need be).

    Also have a can of PB Blaster, silicone spray, gloves, various screwdrivers, a body/trim panel removal kit I got at NAPA several months ago. A few bottles of some golden substance that is made with barley and hops, which I hopefully won't turn to until the job is finished....

    Anything else any of you think I might need. I pretty much need this to go right and not take more than 60 or so minutes, so I am being a bit paranoid....:rolleyes:
    kris
     
    #1 cyberpriusII, Apr 1, 2016
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I suggest you disconnect the 12V battery by unbolting the negative cable where it bolts to the body, before you start, to eliminate battery current drain while the hatch is open. Make sure you do not allow the hatch to close while the switch is removed because you will not be able to reopen the hatch unless you crawl in and find the mechanical lock release below the folding hatch floor.

    You will need a 3/8" ratchet, extension, and a deep socket (probably 10 mm size) to remove the plastic hatch trim garnish (that the switch is attached to) from the aluminum hatch. So make sure that is part of your tool kit. Also, do not allow any of the nuts to fall into the hatch while you are removing them. If a nut falls in you will never get it out - unless you have a magnetic wand - then maybe you might be lucky and can snag the nut by using the wand.

    When you replace the plastic hatch trim garnish with the newly installed switches, note the rubber trim which forms a border between the glass and the garnish. Make sure that trim is not pinched by the garnish.
     
    #2 Patrick Wong, Apr 1, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2016
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  3. cyberpriusII

    cyberpriusII Prodigyplace says I'm Super Kris

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    Thank you so much for your kind words of encouragement and help, Mr. Wong!

    As always, greatly appreciated.

    We decided to forego the repair this weekend. With wind chill, temperatures are in the 20s and winds are gusting so high that I think I saw Toto and the Wicked Witch fly by in the breeze a bit ago. Sunday is not supposed to be much better, wind-wise. Spring in the Midwest.

    Hope next week it improves. Want to get this done ASAP.

    Thanks again,
    Kris
     
    #3 cyberpriusII, Apr 2, 2016
  4. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I assume that you successfully completed your round-trip to OR?

    Cold temps like that are not optimal when removing the black plastic hatch interior trim. It is likely that several of the plastic fasteners will break when you pull off the panel because the plastic gets fragile in cold temps, especially after it is more than a few years old.
     
    #4 Patrick Wong, Apr 2, 2016
  5. cyberpriusII

    cyberpriusII Prodigyplace says I'm Super Kris

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    Leaving around the 15th! I want this done before the trip! :)
     
    #5 cyberpriusII, Apr 3, 2016
  6. DonDNH

    DonDNH Senior Member

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    FWIW, my hatch button has required a couple of presses to fully release since it was new.
     
    #6 DonDNH, Apr 3, 2016
  7. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    This highlights a little known fact about the rear hatch release. A lot of people don't realise that the hatch mechanism does not stay open when the switch is continuously pressed. On pressing the hatch release switch, it activates the hatch lock release for between 0.5 - 1 sec and then it closes again, even if you are continuously holding the switch closed. If you do not raise the hatch in that time it will catch (on the secondary emergency catch) and you will need to press the switch again to release the hatch so it will open. I'm not sure exactly why it is designed this way, but there must be a logical explanation. Nevertheless, that is the way it is.

    So, in short you must raise the hatch immediately upon hearing the "clunk' sound of the hatch releasing, otherwise a second (or third, if you're really slow) press of the switch is required.

    Hope this helps.
     
    #7 dolj, Apr 3, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2016
    cyberpriusII and Stevewoods like this.
  8. Stevewoods

    Stevewoods Senior Member

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    Really interesting!

    Thanks. Once the rubber was shredding off, I began noticing what I thought was an occasional fail of the switch -- but halfway through opening -- sometimes.

    I think I was being ultra-sensitive and was really experiencing what you are talking about. Wonder why they did that. Extra margin of safety of some sort?
     
    #8 Stevewoods, Apr 4, 2016
  9. DonDNH

    DonDNH Senior Member

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    Thanks for that tidbit. I did not know that.
     
    #9 DonDNH, Apr 4, 2016
  10. cyberpriusII

    cyberpriusII Prodigyplace says I'm Super Kris

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    Tis me again. :eek:

    I did not manage to get this repair done before my trip, but got up early today and managed to get this done. What I learned:

    1) Have replacement screws ready and waiting for the three screws that hold the latch assembly in place behind the garnish -- I stripped two of them trying to get them out and only barely managed to get the third one out, but it was damaged.

    2) Speaking of stripped screws, have extractor ready -- I used the Ontel Speed Out kit. It worked perfectly.

    3) Have duct tape -- of course -- I used it to secure the wiring after a small plastic clip broke -- no big deal.

    4) Make sure you do not install the garnish over top of the black rubber stripping. Patrick warns about this and I am glad I read his warning and paid heed, because it is easy to do if you are not careful.

    If I hadn't had to go to the hardware store, this would have been a 15-minute job.

    Thanks everyone for the support/advice. (y)
    kris
     
    #10 cyberpriusII, Apr 30, 2016
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