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Taking off head housing

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Maxwell175, Apr 20, 2023.

  1. Maxwell175

    Maxwell175 Junior Member

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    Hello all,

    I am working on a DIY Head Gasket replacement for my 2010 Prius. I already got as far as taking off the head. I have unscrewed all 10 head bolts, all exhaust nuts and disconnected all hoses but I am still unable to pry up the housing. There still seems to be something on the right side. I made a short video showing where I'm at. I hesitate to use any more prying force as it definitely feels like I missed something. Are there any hidden bolts on the right of the head i should look out for? Here is a video showing where I'm at:
    (sorry for the loud breathing :oops:)
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    And the exhaust is slid off the studs on the head or you've gotten underneath the car and disconnected the converter pipe from the exhaust manifold and now you can lift the exhaust manifold back and up off of all studs and throw it on the ground? If the exhaust is sitting on its studs you're trying to lift the head along with the cat pipe. I didn't really watch the video it takes too long to load I'm out in the wild I have this engine apart and I took it apart I don't remember any hidden bolts per se.
     
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Videos not working for me either.
     
  4. Maxwell175

    Maxwell175 Junior Member

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    Looks like Google Drive doesn't work for these things. Here it is uploaded on YouTube:
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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  6. Maxwell175

    Maxwell175 Junior Member

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    I found that I did not take off the screw that was deeper down on the exhaust pipes that was shown at 17:59 of this video:


    Now it looks like it is moving more, but still not completely off. Maybe it is just glued on tighter on this side, but I am still not 100% sure. I see that it is now moving well in the back so the only place still holding on is the front right. I rewatched a few different videos but can't find what is missing. Here is a new video showing where I am now:

     
  7. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    You have to "re"move the exhaust manifold or the head won't come off.

     
    #7 ASRDogman, Apr 21, 2023
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2023
  8. Maxwell175

    Maxwell175 Junior Member

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    That was one of the problems. I unscrewed one more screw there and now the back of the head assembly moves freely, but there is still something in the front left. I made a new video showing where I am at now in the post above yours.
     
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  9. Maxwell175

    Maxwell175 Junior Member

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    I was able to pry it loose. It was just glued on a bit tighter. Thanks for the suggestions. It pointed me in the direction of the exhaust which was where the screw was.
     
  10. Maxwell175

    Maxwell175 Junior Member

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    Hello all,

    I was able to take off the cylinder head and pull the head gasket so now according to instructions I need to get it machined. This is the first time I've been this deep in an engine so my question is what specifically should I ask to be done at a machine shop? The Gasket Masters video said to "inspect the seals on the valves" and "if the head needs to be machined, have it machined".

    The first shop that I called I asked them to "inspect the valve seals and machine it". They said they would need to "recondition" it and it would cost $500 and take around a week. Is this really what I need? What exactly should I be asking for?

    I have attached the images of the head and cylinders and the faulty head gasket. (I think I see where it wore out between cylinders 1 and 2.
    IMG_20230421_155132.jpg IMG_20230421_155154.jpg IMG_20230421_155226.jpg
     
  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Ugh, why a new thread? I posted some head refurb info in your other thread just now. You can clearly see head gasket failure between cylinders one and two in pic above, btw. It's "traditional"...
     
  12. Maxwell175

    Maxwell175 Junior Member

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    I apologize. I wasn't aware of the proper etiquette here and wanted to separate conversation topics.

    I didn't see any head refurb info in my other thread. If you mean the Manual Excerpts and How-to thread in your signature, I did see the tolerances and I saw you mention using a straightedge and feeler gauges to check it myself. I will try that once I am able to get them from the store. Should I worry about inspecting the valve seals?
     
  13. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    Always replace the valve stem seals when the head is off.
    I would try to avoid machining the head if the surface condition is acceptable. Machining the head will always increase the likelihood of timing issues since the overall height of the assembly is reduced.
     
  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Toyota gasket kit has head gasket, valve stem seals, plus most everything everything pliable in the engine. Part no in attached.
     

    Attached Files:

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  15. Maxwell175

    Maxwell175 Junior Member

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    Got it. I have the FEL-PRO kit and I see it does have the stem seals. Do I need to do or check anything else with the head if I can avoid machining it? I plan to give it a good clean with Oxiclean, as was suggested in other threads here, and/or carb cleaner. I already thoroughly cleaned the EGR as was suggested in other threads here.
     
  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Oxi-clean is mildly caustic, likely to react with aluminum, and maybe prone to leave residue. I’d only use it on stainless steel EGR cooler.
     
  17. Maxwell175

    Maxwell175 Junior Member

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    What would you recommend wiping it down with? Sponges, paper towels and rags or can a steel wool pad be used?

    Any specific cleaner that might work best for these components, or should I just stick to carb cleaner?
     
  18. Isaac Zachary

    Isaac Zachary Senior Member

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    I'd recomend WD-40 for a cleaning solvent. Carb cleaner also leaves a residue. Don't use anything that's harder than the surface you're cleaning. I'd avoid steel wool on aluminum, for an example. Avoid fluffy rags.

    I once made a scraping tool out of soft copperpipe by flattenning one end and sharpening it. It still could gouge some aluminum surfaces, but it was harder to do than with a steel scraper.

    Those green or white scrubbing pads for use in the kitchen can work really well.
     
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  19. Tideland Prius

    Tideland Prius Moderator of the North
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  20. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    The DIY way to avoid taking your head to a machine shop is buying various grits of giant oversized pieces of sand paper and gluing them to thick glass with spray adhesive then making sure the glass is on a flat surface and putting the head on the sandpaper and see how quickly you can get it down to a consistent surface. If you get the whole thing clean and there's one area that's taking to long to look clean, then you definitely need to go to the machine shop because you need to remove way more metal than sandpaper can remove.
     
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