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Tech is stumped. What causes this misfire?

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by Misfire, Nov 29, 2014.

  1. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    When you bought the used Prius were you aware that it had problems? Or did it take some time for the misfire to develop?

    As Chap pointed out in post #10, there are three major requirements for a gasoline engine to run correctly:

    1. Ignition (it seems like you've beaten this to death since the spark plugs and igniters have been replaced. Still, you should check for water condensation in the spark plug wells immediately upon experiencing a misfire episode.)
    2. Fuel delivery (which includes fuel line pressure and proper injector operation. This could also include the hole in the fuel filler neck - I've not heard of such an issue coming up before. Why is the hole there to begin with?)
    3. Engine cylinder compression to verify the condition of the piston rings, cylinders, and valves (you say that this was checked, but it would be good to know the outcome of the test)

    Eventually, with the expenditure of sufficient time and money, the root cause of your car's misfiring can be resolved. It sounds like you've put so much money into the car at this point that you want to get it to run so that you can say you are getting some value for the investment. Good luck.
     
  2. Easy Rider 2

    Easy Rider 2 Senior Member

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    AND I WILL REPEAT THAT FOR EMPHASIS.....since I already said it a few posts back.

    Another option is:
    If it remains serviceable, you could just drive it and learn to live with the misfire......until it finally breaks altogether.
    You really don't have much to lose doing that........and you have kind of been doing that anyway.
     
  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Let me offer a caution there. You do have something to lose. Misfiring leaves unburned fuel that travels to the catalytic converter and is converted to heat. It is likely eventually to destroy the converter, in such a way that the melted guts block your exhaust flow. From Toyota, the part is high quality, stainless, built for a lifetime, and worth every penny they charge for it, but that's a lot of pennies. Or you'll end up at Bubba's Muffler Shop looking at some sort of hack-n-weld.

    A Prius that works holds more of your value than one that doesn't ... I can't make the call for you as to where you need to call it quits, but tracking a misfire, just as Patrick pointed out, is just a matter of keeping focus on the only three areas that can be responsible, keeping track of what you've already ruled out to avoid duplicating effort, until you've got the cause.

    -Chap
     
  4. Misfire

    Misfire New Member

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    News from the Toyota service station:

    The mechanic said he was able to rule out all of the items on my list from the previous page, but took an additional fuel sample and found that there was in fact water in the (new) tank. Not as much as before, but enough to cause the misfires.

    This couldn't have come from a gas station, since my wife and I filled our tanks from the same gas station at the same time right after we replaced the tank, and she hasn't had any problems. My mechanic agrees this isn't the problem, since it's also the same gas station where he fills up.

    He thinks that there was more water left in the fuel system than they expected when they replaced the tank and fuel lines, and that the water the are seeing now is just what was left behind. It took a few hundred miles of driving for the misfire to occur, but he didn't think that was odd.

    He says that the amount of water in the tank couldn't have come from the hole in the filler neck. Some could have, but he's confident that it wouldn't be enough to cause a problem.

    He also says he's confident the water isn't getting into the tank from the rain, so it's just a coincidence I've had misfires during rainstorms. They've already dissembled the fuel system and run two smoke tests, and he says that any way this could happen would have shown up then. (I'm also confident I'm closing the fuel cap tightly when I finish filling up, so water isn't getting in that way.)

    His proposed solution is that I drive around to burn off the water and gas. He estimates it will take a few weeks to a month, but fuel additives may speed the process. I'll have some misfires during that time. I asked specifically, "If the car starts misfiring and the check engine light starts flashing, I should just keep driving?" and he said yes, provided I was comfortable driving it.

    I asked him if there was any risk of damaging the car by driving it while misfiring, and he said no. Specifically that it wouldn't damage the catalytic converter, the fuel injectors, or the ignition coils.

    How does this sound to folks?

    This is good news in that the solution isn't buying another part, but puzzling because 1) I replaced the tank the first time because he told me I wouldn't be able to burn off the water by driving it, even if I used fuel additives and 2) I thought the water mixed with the gas was what caused the coils and injector to fail in the first place.
     
  5. Jeff F

    Jeff F Member

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    You didn't tell us how long it was between the tank replacement and your misfires after the rain. Had you been driving for a while?
    Could be, but I still have my doubts...
     
  6. Misfire

    Misfire New Member

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    I wasn't. The check engine light came on the day after I bought it, and the first misfires occurred about 200 miles after that during a heavy rain.

    Yes. I drove more than 200 but less than 500 miles between replacing the tank and the next misfire. I filled up twice during that time, once at the same time as my wife and once on my own. The misfire happened during a rainstorm several days after I last filled the tank.

    I share your uncertainty about ruling out water getting into the tank during wet weather, but I don't have much to go on other than two misfires happening during rainstorms, and don't know what I'd do to test the theory. But I should add that it has also misfired when it wasn't raining before we replaced the tank. We've towed the car a lot.
     
    #26 Misfire, Dec 4, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2014
  7. Easy Rider 2

    Easy Rider 2 Senior Member

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    I think you should still plug the hole.
    Too many ASSumptions on the part of the mechanic.
    And.....the water in the tank may NEVER be removed without some additive in the gas.
    Ethanol helps but with just E10 it is very limited in the amount of water it will hold.
     
  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I agree with him about the injectors and the ignition coils. The injectors just squirt the stuff. Whether it burns after that or not makes no difference to them, and won't hurt them. The ignition coils just make sparks, and whether the spark lights anything or not, the coil is fine.

    As for the cat, check page 147 in your owner's manual:

    • Use only unleaded gasoline.
    • Do not drive with an extremely low fuel level; running out of fuel could cause the engine to misfire, creating an excessive load on the three-way catalytic converter and the Toyota HC adsorber and catalyst system.
    • Do not turn off the ignition while the vehicle is moving.
    • Keep your engine in good running order. Malfunctions in the engine electrical system, electronic ignition system/distributor ignition system or fuel system could cause an extremely high temperature of the three-way catalytic converter and Toyota HC adsorber and catalyst system.
    I only harp on this 'cause I've been there myself, with a different vehicle where I took about a month to track down a misfire problem and by then it was too late for the cat, which was melted into a gob inside and passed exhaust about as well as a potato in the pipe.

    The one thing that made that my lucky day was that a converter for that vehicle cost about a quarter of what yours does.

    -Chap
     
  9. Misfire

    Misfire New Member

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    Another update. I picked up the car from the mechanic this evening and had a longer chat about what is wrong and what is to be done. The misfires will continue as long as there is water in the tank, so the goal is to get it out as quickly and cheaply as possible. To do that, he recommended driving the car until most of the gas (now about 1/6 tank) is gone. At that point, I should fill the tank about 1/4th full and add a water removing fuel additive. Drive until the tank is nearly empty, and repeat until the water and misfires are gone.

    As for the source of the water, he assured me that some water and fuel could remain in the system even after replacing the tank and lines. Looking around PriusChat, I've seen other people report being told similar things when dealing with water in the gas tank, so I have more confidence that he's not just guessing. Still, I'm going to check the spark wells myself after the next rain and keep a close eye on whether the rate or severity of misfires change with the rain.

    That leaves the fuel neck. The hole is from rust, and while the mechanic assures me it won't affect anything other than emissions, I'm not inclined to leave it be. However, I'm not inclined to pay the quoted 1k for parts and labor if there's another expensive repair on the horizon. Here are the two scenarios that worry me:
    1. Water is getting into the tank from outside and will keep getting into the tank until the source of ingress is found and fixed.
    2. We won't be able to remove enough water quickly enough to prevent misfires from damaging the catalytic converter.
    Now, my mechanic says I need not worry about either of these scenarios, but they seem like reasonable fears to me. My plan is to try the fuel additive plan for three or four cycles and see if it makes a difference. That's maybe two weeks of driving, give or take. After that, I'll take the car to an independent mechanic and ask them to take a fuel sample, check the cat, and quote a price to replace the fuel neck.

    If there's still a lot of water in the tank, I'll know to worry about 1. If the cat is looking bad, I'll know to worry about 2. In those cases, I won't be likely to find the source of one serious problem before it causes another. That's my limit, so I'll sell the car for whatever I can get for it. (Anyone want some very old and very new parts?) Otherwise, I'll have the neck fixed by whoever gave me the lowest quote.

    Here are my questions now:
    1. Would 3-4 cycles of a partial tank of gas + HEET clear out enough water that I shouldn't expect a watery fuel sample unless more was getting in?
    2. Is there there anything I can do to minimize damage to the catalytic converter, or at least monitor it while I am trying to burn off the water?
    No, the harping is welcome. I bought the Prius after the cat on my old car failed, then the replacement cat failed. I only had to fight a little to get the mechanic to honor the warranty on the replacement cat, but then the replacement replacement cat failed and my new mechanic found some other problems. Rather than go another round I said "Screw it, I'm getting a Toyota." I've been very protective of this cat for that reason, and have made a point to ask whether it was damaged by the latest round of misfires. The answer so far is that it is in great shape, but the harping lets me know what sorts of risks are on the horizon.
     
  10. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I disagree with the concept that any substantial amount of contaminated fuel will be left in the system after the fuel tank is replaced. Further you've indicated that the car only has a problem after heavy rain. That is not consistent with the idea of pre-existing contaminated fuel. In that case the car should misfire at all times.

    Regardless, rather than argue about that, if your mechanic believes the fuel is contaminated with water then the obvious solution is to disconnect the fuel line where it connects to the fuel rail at the engine compartment, and attach it to an extension hose routed to a drain container.

    Then apply 12VDC to the fuel pump within the fuel tank so that the fuel can be pumped into the drain container. This requires removing the rear seat and an access panel in the cabin floor, for access to the fuel pump wiring.

    An alternate approach to powering the fuel pump would be to remove the circuit opening relay (aka fuel pump relay), use an ohmmeter to identify the coil terminals and switched terminals, then insert a paper clip into the relay socket to short the switched terminals together. Turn the ignition switch to the IG-ON position to power the fuel pump. If this approach is used, put a battery charger on the 12V battery to keep it fully-charged.

    The reason it is necessary to bypass the circuit opening relay is that if the engine ECU detects the engine is not running it will remove power to the coil terminals of the circuit opening relay after a brief period, so that the fuel pump does not continue to run.

    Draining the fuel tank is a lot better than you having to drive the car another 150 miles to see what happens.

    If you want to see if all other problems are resolved first prior to replacing the fuel filler pipe, is the hole in a place where you can cover it with duct tape? That would be better than doing nothing.

    I also am wondering why the fuel filler pipe was not replaced at the time the fuel tank was replaced? It should not have cost much extra to do that. For that matter I am wondering why the fuel tank was replaced to begin with. If the only issue was water in the fuel, that could have been pumped out as I described in this message.
     
    #30 Patrick Wong, Dec 5, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2014
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  11. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    In my experience, the wiring at the fuel pump is a PITA to reach even after removing that access panel.

    I put together a video for CClay that shows which terminals and how to do it at the circuit opening relay, which is very easy to access. (The only reason I haven't posted that vid yet is I'm embarrassed at the audio quality and haven't had time to redo that. But I can send it if it would help.)

    If I were put to the trouble of pumping the fuel out to a container, I would use a clear container for at least part of it, so I could let it stand and see if it stratifies into gasoline on top of water. Then it would be known whether that was any part of the problem or not.

    -Chap
     
  12. Misfire

    Misfire New Member

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    The first time the CEL started flashing and the car shaking violently was while driving in a heavy rain, less than a week after I bought the car. It flashed and shook less violently again in good weather after we replaced the fuel injector but before we replaced the tank. Then it flashed and shook during a heavy rain after we replaced the tank. It has been throwing misfire codes in good weather and bad without the CEL flashing, but some of those we've attributed to the injector and the ignition coils. None of that rules out misfires from the rain, but it makes it harder to tell which of the many problems were the cause. I'm not confident at this point that I can tell what this car feels like when it isn't misfiring from when it is without the flashing CEL since it has apparently been in terrible shape all along.

    As for draining the tank, I asked the Toyota mechanic why we couldn't just do that, and he said that it wouldn't help. I don't know why it wouldn't. Clearly it would remove *some* water; the fuel sample itself had water in it that is now not in the tank. I asked why we couldn't have used fuel additives the first time we found water in the tank instead of replacing it, and he told me that draining wouldn't have helped, and there was a rusted spot in the old tank. For what it is worth, when he first suggested we replace the tank, I asked the mechanic who replaced the ignition coils for a second opinion, and he agreed that was the only option.

    As for the filler neck, I don't know why they didn't see it when they did all of the other work. It seems unlikely to me that the hole didn't appear until after the tank was replaced, but I don't think there's much I can do about that other than be pissed that three different mechanics working on the car multiple times didn't manage to find it.

    It sounds like I should be putting less faith in my mechanic's diagnosis and plan here. I'm reluctant to take the car to a *fourth* mechanic to get another opinion, but might it be worth it? Suppose I drain the tank myself. How easy (and expensive) would it be to have a mechanic determine whether there is any way for water to be leaking into the fuel? A pressure test has been mentioned a few times---would that be able to rule out a leak, or identify where the leak was if it there were one?

    I'd be happy to give it a shot.
     
  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Pressure testing can be done on a fuel system. An inert gas like nitrogen has to be used (introducing pressurized oxygen-rich air into a space with fuel vapor crosses the line into bomb-making) and the pressure has to be carefully regulated to a very low value (the tank is not designed as a pressure vessel, after all) ... see the warnings on the green Evap-test-port label under the hood.

    What is puzzling me here is that the ECM does its own routine leak tests using vacuum during normal operation, and ought to be throwing codes if it is detecting a leak. Odd.

    -Chap
     
  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Here's a good reference on the fuel and evap system.

    I had forgotten that the exhaust O2 sensor plays a part in how the automatic leak test works. I guess if the O2 levels are already wonkers because of the misfiring, that might make the automatic leak testing inconclusive.

    -Chap

    OK, I also forgot there are two automatic leak tests. The one for a leak in the internal bladder is the one that depends on O2 sensing. The other, complete-system leak check does not, it just relies on drawing a vacuum and confirming it with the vapor pressure sensor.
     
    #34 ChapmanF, Dec 5, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2014
  15. Misfire

    Misfire New Member

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    Another mechanic, another update.

    I had a look at the fuel neck to see if I could patch it temporarily myself, but wasn't able to locate the hole. We have a rain storm coming, so rather than cross my fingers, I called around to see if I could find a better price on the fuel neck replacement. A mechanic recommended by a friend thinks he can do it for significantly less than Toyota, so I dropped it off with him. He'll have a quote tomorrow. If the price is reasonable, I'll ask him about draining the tank while he is at it.

    So far, I've driven about 20 miles from the Toyota mechanic to my home last night, then another 20 to from my home to my friend's mechanic today. The first 20 were without any fuel additive, and I had the expected misfires and occasional flashing CEL. That felt a bit harrowing, the Toyota mechanic's assurances notwithstanding. I added a bottle of HEET before driving to my friend's mechanic today and didn't feel any misfires. The CEL was on (the EVAP codes from the fuel neck are sufficient to keep it on), but didn't flash.

    I'm a little worried that I added too much HEET. The bottle got stuck in the fuel aperture when I added it, so I ended up pouring almost a whole bottle into about 1/6th of a tank of fuel. If we don't drain the tank, I'll add a few gallons before driving it away from the latest mechanic. On reflection, I don't know why I didn't think to use a funnel.

    That may have been my poor writing. We are getting EVAP codes and a solid CEL, which the Toyota mechanic attributes to the fuel neck. If he is right and water *isn't* getting in through the neck, I worry that the water in the tank is getting in through somewhere else. If so, we'll keep getting EVAP codes after replacing the neck, and keep getting water in the tank. I'm not up for more exploration by part replacement, so if I can rule that out before replacing the neck, so much the better.

    One thing I'll add: one of the three mechanics I talked to today asked for more details about the water in the tank. She didn't want to rule out the fuel neck without seeing it first, but thought that the residual water explanation was plausible and said she would have recommended the same fuel additive strategy. That and the misfire free trip today gives me some hope that the end is in sight.
     
  16. Jeff F

    Jeff F Member

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    I'm going to see if I can get a look at my filler pipe. Our experiences are remarkably similar, except that I'm managing mine by throwing in the occasional bottle of conditioner.

    I had a rotten fuel filler pipe on an old BMW and wrapped it with fiberglass... That's a good cheap DIY fix.
     
  17. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    From the thermonuclear flyswatter department:

    Mod the fuel line to add a fuel/water separator filter.

    Then (a) water, if present, doesn't get to the engine; (b) it's easy to drain some out of the petcock and see whether there is any water or not, and recheck after trying various repairs.

    -Chap

    Cons: could cause its own problems if it restricts fuel flow enough to lean out the engine...
     
  18. Easy Rider 2

    Easy Rider 2 Senior Member

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    So here's another harp:
    That hole can be fixed temporarily with the application of some METAL duct tape or maybe even some self-stick muffler tape.
    Given the overall condition of your car, I STRONGLY suggest that you do a temp fix on that hole. NOW.
    Are you listening ??
    If the hole is in an area where the tape can be applied several layers thick by wrapping it around the pipe, it might be considered a permanent fix on a car that old.

    I doubt that the cat is going to be damaged here IF the problem really is fuel contamination because what you are getting likely isn't a complete mis-fire but just a partial one. As someone else said, if one cylinder quits completely, it will shake your teeth out and your description doesn't sound that bad.

    And finally, I don't think it is a good idea to put a whole can of HEET into less than a half tank of gas (about 5 gallons) because it was designed to be used in a whole tank of a full sized car, which is upwards of 15 gallons. Methanol in high concentrations can damage fuel system parts.
    That stuff can diffuse a remarkable amount of water so you should see a difference by the end of your first run through......if that really is the problem.
     
  19. Jeff F

    Jeff F Member

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    I found the source of water on my car. It appears that the filler pipe has a corrosion hole just inside the nozzle on the top of the pipe. Tried to load pictures here but that function doesn't seem to be working right now. I can see corrosion on the inside of the pipe where water has come in from the top.

    The pipe is exposed in the wheel well, where it would be subject to a steady stream of water from the wheel in wet weather. That completely explains my experiences, including the emissions DTC.

    Update: I wrapped the pipe with self-adhesive rubber tape. Not that hard to get at with the wheel off and the canister removed.
     
    #39 Jeff F, Dec 6, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2014
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  20. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    It's good that you determined the apparent root cause of the misfire.

    Rubber tape is not a very good fix for the hole because gasoline will tend to dissolve the tape. It would be much better to use metal duct tape which would be more resistant to deterioration.

    Even better would be for you to have that pipe replaced now that you have developed a reasonable theory regarding how that defective pipe is causing the misfire problem.
     
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