Tedh1979 2005 Prius Project with multiple issues looking for help!

Discussion in 'Newbie Forum' started by Tedh1979, Apr 4, 2019.

  1. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Agree 100%. It’s all over this webpage, I honestly don’t know how you could miss it. What exactly wires are you buying? I don’t see anyone reusing gaskets and fluids. Don’t forget a new oil filter. Don’t cheap out on the plugs. Get the recommended NGK or Denso plugs.

    As far as the battery goes , I didn’t say it would cost 500 dollars, I said you should be able to rebuild your existing one for under 500 dollars. Figure 225 for the quad charger, 12 bucks to build a load tester if you have a multi meter, and 2-4 used modules at 50 each? That’s 437 if you only need 4. Less if you need less modules, more if you need more. BUT you now own the tools to repair your battery pack, or any other battery pack in case you get another Prius. This guy with the 500 dollar 3 year pack, do you know him or is he a Craigslist or Facebook guy? This website is full of guys getting this so called great deal who have trouble within a year and the pack repair guy is long gone. Don’t be a sucker, be a repair man. Heck you could even make some money helping other people out.
     
    #81 Skibob, Apr 11, 2019
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2019
  2. Tedh1979

    Tedh1979 Member

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    I'm definitely not disagreeing with you. As I've said many times on here that I am still learning about a part of that is learning about different problems of each generation. Some things are generation specific and come things are specific to the year of the Prius. I know that oil consumption issues are a big issue with earlier Gen 3 models along with multiple other problems that weren't listed on the Gen 2. My new engine for my Prius has 132K on it and therefore I hope I wont be dealing with oil consumption issues. Before the engine goes into the car, is there anything I can have my mechanic do to prevent or prolong this issue before installing the engine?
     
  3. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    make sure the cooling system is functional. A plugged up radiator will do you no good at all with a new engine.
     
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  4. Tedh1979

    Tedh1979 Member

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    What steps can I take to check if the cooling system is functional with the current bad engine? Both the inverter coolant fluid and the regular coolant fluid are both pink and at the "full" level. With the power button pressed twice, I can hear the inverter running.
     
  5. rjparker

    rjparker Senior Member

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    Your probably hearing the brake booster or the three phase electric ac compressor. Just be sure everything is working when you first Ready the swapped engine, eg at the time do a complete check. I think your mechanic is underestimating the work involved for the price. You often get what you pay for although its clear you are a gambling man when it comes to cars. The mechanic should have Prius diagnostic experience with techstream equipment and knowledge as well. The car is a gigantic networked marvel but like any network, all the parts have to be addressable and online to function. Take a hard look at the troubleshooting manual I sent you. I would be deeply concerned on this one since you don't know what the other systems are doing much less the quality of a $300 engine.
     
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  6. a_gray_prius

    a_gray_prius Rare Non-Old-Blowhard Priuschat Member

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    To be fair, car-part.com lists a lot of junkyard pull Prius engines for around that price. I think if he really wants to be sure, it's going to mean a teardown of that junkyard engine.
     
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  7. rjparker

    rjparker Senior Member

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    It was the $520 quote to swap the engine I was questioning. Obviously lots of unknowns but around here a mechanic would charge that much for an egr and pcv clean.
     
  8. Tedh1979

    Tedh1979 Member

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    Actually $300 is expensive for a used Prius engine. I could've bought THREE engines for this price, in running condition. I paid extra for this engine for the grade being A and the miles being very low as well as a warranty.
     
  9. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    I don't know that there's much you can do in advance- inspect radiator & hoses, see if anything has an obvious problem.

    The bigger point is vigilance once you get the new engine installed. Prius isn't equipped with a temp gauge, so you'll want to hook up a diagnostic computer or app to keep an eye on it until a level of trust is developed. You've never witnessed this car working properly, so everything is suspect until it isn't.
     
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  10. Tedh1979

    Tedh1979 Member

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    Ok guys I have some Prius newbie questions for all of you. I have my Prius parts now, but it's time to order fluids. As many of you know, I buy and sell cars on a part-time basis. I know everyone has their favorite oil type and weight and brand. I always use Fully Synthetic oil in all of my personal cars and even cars that I flip. But I don't use an expensive brand. Walmart sells their "self branded" Fully Synthetic Oil called Super Tech and they even make Super Tech oil filters which I use. My OPINION is that cheap Fully Synthetic is better than expensive conventional oil. What I miss out on all the time though, is that in my area you can get an oil change with Valvoline conventional oil (up to 5 quarts) and a new oil filter and all the labor for $15 or less. Every month, some service center or even multiple service centers, advertise in a booklet that comes in the mail called that Mad Money Coupon Book. What I don't understand is that I call all of these places and say, "You're offering an oil change where you include the 5 quarts of oil and you include the filter and labor for $15, How about if I brought the oil or the oil and oil filter and you just need to provide the labor for the same $15?" Nobody will do this when they find out it is Fully Synthetic Oil. It puzzles me why I can't get a reasonable price on changing oil if I supply the oil and filter. The cheapest I've found is $24 if I supply everything. So if I supply 5 quarts of Full Synthetic and an oil filter for about $20-25 and then pay $24 for labor, that's a $50 oil change. That's not a good deal especially for someone that does this quite often. Therefore I usually change oil myself but my driveway is getting very messy due to oil changes and oil leaks and I'm planning to use concrete cleaner or muriatic acid and my gas pressure washer to clean the driveway soon, and then I'd like to start taking cars in and just having a mechanic change oil from here on out.

    Can someone make the case for Full Synthetic VS conventional? And one of the reasons of course that I'm asking is because I want to know what is the best to put in the Prius? What weight, brand, conventional or full synthetic? I plan on taking very good care of the Prius once everything is working again. My mechanic is working on other vehicles for me right now that are more pressing, but the plan is to start the Prius in a few weeks. In the meantime I have purchased the engine, hybrid battery, plugs, gaskets, and wires. My daughter and I have been cleaning the heck out of the Prius. It's been fully vacuumed, carpet shampooed, and detailed on the inside. All the old tree leaves and debris have been cleaned and the car has been washed and waxed. The interior was much dirtier than I thought and now it looks so much better.

    Next question, I have owned and flipped cars with green or orange antifreeze and of course now you can put Prestone yellow in either one of them. The Prius is my first car to take the pink coolant. Now Prestone has yellow antifreeze that they advertise as fully compatible with "ALL CARS". But then Prestone also sells a coolant in a small sized 1/2 gallon jug that says "For Toyota Vehicles" but it doesn't say it is PINK. I'm including pics from Walmart where coolant is a good price but are any of these coolants compatible or should I get something else?

    And finally, while waiting while my other cars are being worked on, I want to remove the fog from my headlights. They aren't terrible for a 2005, but I want them to be clear. Before all of these headlight lens cleaning solutions hit the market, there used to be a cream that I purchased on eBay and it was cheap and it worked well. You applied the cream to the headlight, waited awhile, and then wiped the cream off with paper towels. And it did a great job and so of course it is no longer available. I've done the Mother's Headlight Restoration Kit and used a cordless drill and expensive cloth and sponge attachments and different types of cream, step 1, step 2, step 3. And it did not do a good job. I've used other similar products as well with average or less than average results. Recently I've seen a TV commercial for a product that you just wipe on and wipe off. It's a disposable napkin for $10 a piece. Does it work? See pic below. I am removing the hybrid battery later next week to return as a core charge and I plan to install the new hybrid battery next week as well. And then of course I'll pull the orange safety plug before the engine swap.

    So please, comment on if any of these coolants will work or if I need to get Toyota antifreeze. Let me know about the best oil, weight, conventional or full synthetic. And finally, please comment if any of you have used the headlight restoration wipe as shown below or suggest a headlight restoration that actually works well and is easy to do. Thank you everyone! IMG_20190410_081113.jpg IMG_20190410_081205.jpg IMG_20190410_081221.jpg IMG_20190410_081857.jpg
     
  11. rjparker

    rjparker Senior Member

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    No opinion on the coolant but I stay with factory spec especially for the inverter. Around here Walmart will install your oil and filter for $19. They also will do the headlight restore and put a uv coating on for $25. They use a polisher. One time they spent an hour on my 2012 Prius lights for that price. The Gen2 cars came with 5w30 conventional oil. I used Mobil 1 in my 08 and it never burned oil.

    On a side note, I drove a brand new 2019 Rav4 Hybrid last week. Its a GREAT suv rated at 40 mpg combined with awd and amazing power from a 2.5L system. Smoother, quieter and larger than my Prius v which, by itself, has a better ride and size than a gen2. The new Rav4 was getting 60 mpg on my test drive.

    I predict the Rav LE hybrid version will sell well given its only an $800 upcharge from the standard model.
     

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    #91 rjparker, Apr 17, 2019
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  12. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Toyota recommends 0W-20 weight oil for the Prius engine. That weight is only available as a synthetic.

    The Toyota manual does have guidelines for using other weights of oil, some of which are available in cheaper conventional formulations. It'll work, but you won't get peak MPG.

    I would have no hesitation using Walmart's 0W-20. I would hesitate to change weights though.

    I encourage you to improve your oil change technique. Even if spills are unavoidable, kitty litter and dawn dish soap (used in separate steps) are extremely effective and inexpensive.
     
  13. VFerdman

    VFerdman Senior Member

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    The oil cap on the engine will have printed on it the oil weight (5W-30) requirement. I would stick with that. Synthetic or not is mostly a religious matter. So pick your religion and go with it.

    I would go with Toyota coolant if I were to put that much effort into restoring a car. Toyota coolant is long lasting, so you should really not have to worry about it for a while once you put it in. Third party products may or may not be as good. If you feel like learning, go with one of those.
     
  14. Tedh1979

    Tedh1979 Member

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    I drove the 2018 Hyundai Ioniq that I mentioned in an earlier post. My brother-in-law is going to let me drive it for the weekend to see what I think. I was getting over 60MPG but I was driving like a Grandma. 59MPG is the average in the city. I can get it for $14,484 and I was offered $10K for my trade-in which is way more than fair. So that's only a $4000 car loan. But I have had bad luck with Hyundai, engines in particular, and suspension problems all with cars with low miles. Plus the Ioniq for $14,484 is just for that particular car. I don't like the paint color. I wish it had leather and was a limited, but the limited gets 54MPG instead of 59MPG. Free hybrid battery replacements for life. I'm on the fence. Hopefully after driving it for a few days I'll have a better idea. That is awesome that Walmart does headlight restores. I'll go that route. The RAV4 sounds amazing but is outside of my price range. Maybe a used one in the future.

    My oil spills on my driveway are due to a Town and Country leaking a huge amount of oil with no warning. It is getting fixed as we speak. And then the Prius had a hole in the engine that I didn't know about so that lead to a huge spill as well. I'm decently clean on changing oil, but sometimes a little gets on the driveway. I have had two people say 5W-30 and you've said 0W-20. I know opinions differ on oil to use for cars. Even my current car, the company changed the recommended oil weight and therefore it's hard to remember what to even put in it.

    I ordered Toyota coolant since it lasts a long time anyways. I like Synthetic oil better, but the price to put it in a car makes it double the price. So that's why I am on the fence about Full Synthetic VS Conventional.
     
  15. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Mine uses 0W-20, and honestly I thought they all did. The owners' manual is going to be the best reference- they can be downloaded for free from Toyota if your car came without the original printed one. Bonus- it will have been updated if Toyota changed their mind since the original was published.
     
  16. VFerdman

    VFerdman Senior Member

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    Toyota puts the oil weight right on the oil cap. I am not sure why so many questions about it. It's right there on the oil cap. No need for the manual, even. But, yes a manual is the next stop (in case your oil cap is either missing or has been replaced by an aftermarket unit). It is so much easier and less controversial to just google the owner's manual than ask for opinions on such matters.
     
  17. Tedh1979

    Tedh1979 Member

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    I understand it is on the cap. And yes I have the Toyota owners manual and the Haynes repair manual and they contradict each other. On my current vehicle, a 2011 Hyundai Sonata Limited Turbo, came with a oil cap that says "5W-30" but when I went to the Hyundai dealer one day for an oil change, they did the oil change and I saw on my invoice that they put in 10W-40. I told them to drain it before I drive it, and put in the correct fluid. I was told that Hyundai changed their recommendation but they refuse to give me an oil cap with the correct listing on it. I have taken the car to multiple places to get oil changes. Walmart puts 5W-30 in it. Hyundai puts 10W-40 in it, Jiffy Lube puts 10W-30 in it. I had to read many posts to figure out what was the best. It was explained that the Hyundai engine was knocking and having oil consumption issues. People were using wildly different oil weights. Looking today, the Castrol website says 5W-30, AutoZone says 5W-40, Hyundai says 10W-40. I was then told if my engine wasn't knocking, to stick to the 5W-30. So I decided to switch to Full Synthetic 5W-30. That leads to another argument. A Full Synthetic oil change is supposed to last much longer than a conventional oil change. AutoZone sells a Full Synthetic oil and filter that is advertised as an "annual" oil change. AutoZone and Walmart both say that I could go up to 10,000 miles on a Full Synthetic Oil Change. Some others say 7500 miles. Hyundai says 6000 miles because they are aware of engine issues. I decided I would do Full Synthetic every 6000 miles, but at 3000 miles I was almost bone dry on oil. My car uses about 1 quart of oil every 700-750 miles. And the car has less than 70K on it. Hyundai blamed my issues on me because I chose to use the oil recommended on the cap, 5W-30 and I went Full Synthetic. Hyundai service said if I were to have always used 10W-40 conventional from them, I wouldn't have an oil consumption issue. I am calling BS. I have taken my car into my mechanic and there is nothing "wrong" with the car, it is just having an oil consumption issue. My car is having a Turbo Waste Gate issue which may make the oil consumption worse, but once adjusted, the car will still consume oil. My Turbo Waste Gate issue is effecting my gas MPG to get poor results and poor performance. The mechanic is going to adjust the waste gate rod which should make this issue better again, because this car has had this problem with the Turbo Waste Gate 4 times since I've owned it. I bought it with 41K and it is just shy of 70K, so the Turbo Waste Gate issue has been very problematic, but the oil consumption issue is a whole other issue and I am being blamed for using the oil recommended on the cap. That is why I am really interested, especially in Prius vehicles with high mileages, what oil are people using to get 300K?
     
  18. VFerdman

    VFerdman Senior Member

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    As far as I know everyone uses 5W30 (as per oil cap and owner's manual) on these gen 2 Priuses. They mostly use oil when they reach 100K-150K miles. It's pretty much the norm. Not necessarily right, but the norm. People try mitigation oil consumption with thicker oil, but that's a bandaid and really if the engine is designed to run on 5W and you put 10W, there may (or may not) be problems with lubrication. Yes, it may use less oil, but the lubrication system was designed for 5W and chances are it will not work as designed on thicker stuff. Synthetic or not, it has to be the right viscosity. Your experience with Hyundai is indicative of a manufacturer not owning up to the problem and trying to bandaid it with thicker oil, which is cheaper than recalling all these cars for engine replacement. Understandable, though not even close to right.

    You can make it simple or you can make it complicatd. It's up to you. I think you like to make things more complicated than they need to be. That's fine, it's your time.

    Here is another data point for you. My car is 2007 Prius with almost 208K miles on it. I bought it not quite two years ago with 175K. I've been using 5W30 Mobil 1 synthetic. Noticed the car used about a quart per 1,500 miles or so. Switched to 5W30 Mobil 1 synthetic for high mileage cars. Noticed the consumption went down by a factor of two (quart per 3,000 miles or so). Sticking with that, but really, oil consumption does not bother me all that much. I mean I want to minimize it, but I am not going to loose sleep over it. Most vehicles I owned (and I owned MANY) used oil and this car is no exception. Don't worry about it so much unless there is excessive consumption like 1qt/1K miles or something.
     
  19. Tedh1979

    Tedh1979 Member

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  20. Tedh1979

    Tedh1979 Member

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    @VFerdman I'm not trying to make it complicated, I'm just trying to make sure it is right. And sometimes there are more than one right way to do things. I want to go with the way to achieve the best results. I do complicate things during research so that I can achieve the best answer by popular vote. I work hard during the day, but at night I have no problem sitting down and spending extra time to make sure I do the best thing possible.

    On cars that I sell, I obviously don't care as much. I don't spend time researching like I am for a Prius. I want to learn about Hybrid cars. I have the Ioniq sitting in my driveway. I am under no pressure to buy it. I do think it's nice. There are definitely some advantages over the Prius. But my last two personal vehicles have been Hyundai vehicles and they have put a sour taste in my mouth. My brother-in-law is the sales manager there and would like to change my opinion of Hyundai, but it is hard to erase the past. I bought a brand new 2012 Elantra and it got hit by lightning and was never reliable after that. It constantly would shut off and therefore would lose steering and acceleration right in the middle of traffic. But that wasn't the main issue. The car engine always knocked from day one and I was told it was "normal". The engine blew at 38K despite dealer oil changes every 3,000 miles. Now my Sonata Turbo eats a quart of oil every 700-750 miles which makes using Full Synthetic very expensive.

    You have said something helpful tonight that nobody has mentioned. You are using a "high mileage" oil and are getting less oil consumption. I've always used either conventional or synthetic. I've never tried the high mileage oil. I found a thread about oil recommendations, brand, weight, type, etc. Most people use Mobil 1. I think the majority of people from what I read also use 5W-30. But there are multiple posts from people that also use 0W-20. A couple posts say the dealer recommends 0W-20. That is confusing. And then there are some that make no sense. 0W-30 and 5W-40. And again most people use Mobil 1 but some people really go all out. Royal Purple? I know how much that stuff costs! I used to own a 1988 Jaguar XJ6. It used 12 quarts of oil and a very weird weight. I could only get it ordered from Royal Purple. It was almost a $200 oil change that I did myself. Yeah it ran as quiet as any engine I've ever heard, but that's crazy. The other thing that is weird to read is how often people change their oil. While 5000 miles is recommended, some do it every 2500 miles and one post if from a user that uses an expensive oil and only changes it every 17,500 miles.

    I think I am going to do Mobil 1 high mileage and change it every 5000 miles. Here is the thread where so many people disagree on what oil to use on the Prius. Maybe some people live in a certain climate and therefore 0W-20 may be recommended there? In my state, we get hot Summers and very cold Winters. Oil type recommendation. | PriusChat
     
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