Temp warning light turned on, turned off, then check hybrid system and engine lights turned on

Was driving at highway speeds for about an hour, when the coolant temperature warning light kicked on for a few seconds, then turned off. Then the check hybrid system and check engine lights turned on, as well as the orange triangle. Coolant temperature warning light is no longer on right now.

Coolant reservoir seems to have spit coolant out, as the level seems to be near mid, and there's splashes of coolant around the reservoir. Engine oil level seems fine, as does the inverter coolant reservoir.

Unfortunately, my cheap OBDII adapter is at home, not with me in the car right now. Same with my Chinese mini VCI cable

 

Did he just replace the pump? Or did he repair the pump somehow?

 

Was able to drive home. Coolant temperature warning didn't come back on. I see codes P261B Engine Coolant Pump "B" Control Malfunction and P0A0F-206 Engine Failed to Start. Not sure what the second one is about

 

That's what I figured... Anything I should check to make sure it's the pump, before ordering a new one?

Also, it's the engine coolant pump, not the inverter pump right? Part 161A029015?

I see there was a pump recall for the gen 2; there wasn't one for gen 3 was there?

By the way, is it safe to drive the car short distances with a failed pump? Won't be able to do the replacement till next weekend, unfortunately

 

Are you able to provide more details? I do have a mini VCI cable and a "cracked" copy of Techstream, but I've never been able to get Techstream to work completely. For example, for a while I tried to mess around with smart key functions, but for some reason, I don't have the "Utilities" (I think that's what it was called?) button that I saw other people using when I looked stuff up online

 

I found it, it's under the Engine and ECT ECU tab > Active Test > Activate the Electric Water Pump.

It lets me switch it between 0 and 3000 rpm. When I switch it to 3000 rpm, I hear a sort of humming noise. The noise goes away if I switch back to 0 rpm. Do I need to unbolt the pump from the car to physically see if it's working, or is there another way to tell?

 

While that's a possibility, I feel like the pump is the issue in this case. I sat in the car with the car on yesterday, while I was figuring some stuff out for Techstream, and every minute or so, I could hear what I believe was the pump trying to turn on

 

150,000 miles on it now, with about 30,000 of that being under my ownership; I bought it from a private seller near 130,000 miles

I haven't managed to do anything about the EGR issue yet, as I keep having other issues pop up, as my post history might indicate . I did supposedly get the EGR valve replaced for free at the dealership a year ago, though, after reporting hearing engine rattle on cold starts. I was already there for a different recall, I believe airbags?