This motherloving wheel bearing won’t come out

It goes out the back where you took the four bolts out it comes out that way usually doesn't require very much tapping or anything where you go in the wrong way for a long time so when you go flip it over to take the four bolts out you have to flip it back over

 

The first rule of brute force is that if it doesn't work, you aren't using enough.

You may need to use fire and ice- use a torch to heat the knuckle (makes it expand) and cold water to periodically cool the inside of the bearing (makes it shrink) and enough of that will make the hammer strokes work better.

 

These can be taken out in two minutes. It's all technique. Assuming you are replacing the hub assembly, not JUST the bearing, because the assembly is the way to go.

Find two long bolts using the same thread as the bolts you removed. Thread them in from the rear on opposite corners and then beat them with a hammer to knock the hub out. Works for me every time. I learned my lesson the first time trying to use a slide hammer. My new way bangs 'em out like a champ.

 

Just to clarify: the holes are threaded, you screw in the bolts till they won't turn any more, then give them taps, then turn a bit more, then more taps, and so on?

 

Another technique I've seen mentioned, haven't tried myself but probably will if given the chance, is an air hammer sideways on the bolt bosses of the hub, get it to turn a little bit in the bore, loosen it that way.

 

Can you post a picture of the backside of the assembly showing the holes lining up? Maybe the front as well?

 

PB Blaster works wonders... Use a lot then. wait 15 min...beat...then.wipe off and try putting it in the freezer for an hour. beat it again. Use more PB Blaster. I've had success with this over the course of a few days....in the meantime think of the $1,000 in money you saved yourself on his job once finished.

 

I'm pretty sure the whole thing comes out the way it went in, from the outside. Not that I've ever done this...

And yeah, if bolt holes of the knuckle and bearing line up, it'll need to be rotated to get anywhere, hammering from behind. @ChapmanF suggestion to air-hammer the ears to rotate?

 

I see your logic. but Mendal made a good point. if you use longer bolts going in from the back and tap the bolts themselves it should help break them free. Thread a bit and tap away. repeat and keep going. It cant hurt and will direct to force through to the wheel bearing.

 

Yes. Cold makes the molecules "hold still" so contract. I agree on the pentrating oil...until I was in a similar situation working on an old truck and PB Blaster Saved the day....I'm a believer now that I suffered bloody knucklesmore than 5 times... Now I spray PB Blaster on the joints of what I'm working on the night before...then in the am 80percent of stuff comes right off.