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Throttle "Glide" postion button/mod

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Accessories & Modifications' started by problemchild, Sep 19, 2008.

  1. ken1784

    ken1784 SuperMID designer

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    Following is not related to the glide button directly, but the BLITZ Throttle Controller detects and modifies the accelerator pedal signal electrically.
    http://priuschat.com/forums/sponsor...-prius-throttle-controller-sigmaauto-com.html

    Ken@Japan
     
  2. Rokeby

    Rokeby Member

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    andyprius,

    it is generally understood that the HSD prefers to have 6 blue bars. Evidence
    of this is being able to get into warp stealth and Super Hiway Mode at greater
    than 42 MPH... but only when you have 6+ bars.

    While you've been actively/intentionally suppressing the energy level in the HV
    battery to 4 bars in the foreground, the HSD has been pulling all kinds of tricks
    in the background trying to get up to 6. Those tricks would be running the ICE
    excessively or pulling energy yia the Power Split Device to fill the HV battery
    when the ICE is on.

    It seems to me you have been doing things backwards... but then I've ben
    wrong before!
     
  3. patsparks

    patsparks An Aussie perspective

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    Don't use B, it dumps energy by spinning the ICE and only serves to increase consumption.
     
  4. talonts

    talonts VFAQman

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    I agree with you, glide can be tough with large feet. I find it very tiring to attempt it for long, as I can't find a comfortable position for my foot without either straining on my calf or the arch of my foot.

    Check the Prius Technical Group on Yahoo, some of them are discussing just this issue, that the movements can be very small, and it would be nice to hack it so you could flip to a mode where larger throttle movements would work.

    Don't hold your breath, though - due to the design of the throttle and its' feedback mechanisms, any possible solution won't be simple.

    I think you'd be better off with a mechanical solution, as noted before. The problem is, solenoids would be too jittery, so a linear actuator would work better, but you'd need a way to mechanically drop it out of the "circuit" for the vast majority of the time that it isn't needed. Not that such a dropout would be difficult, though - THAT could use a solenoid.

    As for the defogger, some of us have to use it a lot ;-) My wife has to use it every morning on the way to work on her 04, and I often use it on the weekends on my 06.
     
  5. Tekdeus

    Tekdeus Shifted to Green

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    Bumping this for more contemplation/ideas.

    What do you guys think of this? I'm wondering if this would be strong enough to push on the top part of the plastic throttle pedal lever near the top pivot. Up there is out of the way, but requires the most force because of the leverage. Also, do you figure it would be Ok to energize a solenoid like this for long periods of time without concerns of overheating or electrical consumption? This one is designed for A/C throttle usage so I am assuming it would be.

    The other idea I had with using a solenoid for this mod was to have it come in from the side, just enough to block the pedal from returning to zero. This would require something to hold force laterally, with enough precision to get it in place. Also, if greased, it may be possible for the solenoid to spring back into off position. Any suggestions on hardware that would work for this?

    Holley 46-74 - Holley Universal Throttle Solenoids - Overview - SummitRacing.com
    "These universal throttle solenoids from Holley are used on vehicles equipped with air conditioning. They automatically bump-up the idle speed of the engine when the A/C is switched on."
    [​IMG]
     
  6. ccdisce

    ccdisce Active Member

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    A device similar to the Sigma Unit can be built and customized software written. A new response curve will have to be generated to reduce the signal by the suggested 4:1
     
  7. vertex

    vertex Active Member

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    I would tackle the problem by building a servo loop that detects the current into/out off the traction battery, and tries to keep it near zero by driving the EPA and EPA2 signals to the correct voltage. Stepping on the brake would disconnect, and depressing the accelorator pedal further then the servo point will reconnect the pedal.