Timing chain replacement and other codes, parts lists or general info/help

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Bacon_Is_A_Pooper, Nov 3, 2020.

  1. Bacon_Is_A_Pooper

    Bacon_Is_A_Pooper Junior Member

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    Hello,
    I have a '04 gen 2 Prius reading code p0016, P0420, and P1121. I know what the codes are for, I have a replacement pump already from a junkyard donor and was looking at possibly doing the same with the timing chain. I have been having some problems finding a parts list for the replacement, things like gaskets and possible pumps to replace while in the cover, or tools used. I was also looking for some general tips or info on what I'm getting into. I know this is a rather involved process but due to budget constraints, I am very poor, I'm looking at the most cost effective DIY possible.

    I received the car as a gift in '14 with the Odometer stopped at 299,999 I drove roughly 100 miles a day for 2-3 years and have doubled my commute sense then for the last year. I know that I put a hearty beating on my car, I've also noticed that it does burn some oil as I need to top it off every now and again. I have done some intense fixes before (Hybrid battery cell mostly). I'm just kinda hoping for some guidance in the " deep end" of the repair pool. If possible a repair manual PDF or download, video links, or step by step guides.

    Thank you
     
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  2. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    My local library had several Gen2 Prius repair manuals to choose from... And while it was enjoyable to have a real physical book to look stuff up, it didn't come close to how good the answers are when doing a google search with keywords including Priuchat. It's the fastest way to figure out how to fix everything.
     
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  3. alftoy

    alftoy Active Member

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    2004 service manual, right click on service manual, select download

    Prius MY 2004 - Google Drive
     
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  4. Bacon_Is_A_Pooper

    Bacon_Is_A_Pooper Junior Member

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    Thank you, it's exactly what I needed.
     
  5. Bacon_Is_A_Pooper

    Bacon_Is_A_Pooper Junior Member

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    Alright, so for anyone keeping up I went to picknpull today and found a fairly nice looking '08 that had a complete motor and dash panel. For those that don't know my MFD panel has been out for about 4 months now and I've been using and OBD2 app in my phone to keep track of everything; so I pulled the cluster with the panel still attached plan to install it in the near future.
    I did run into a few things that I wanted to see if I could get a tip on while pulling done parts.

    1. There is a large amount of wiring on top of the engine block and I couldn't find any type of clip on the donor so I just moved it around, is there a way to disconnect or do I have to just move it around?
    2. I've been having trouble finding the gasket kit for the timing belt cover at my local auto parts store, is there one or am I going to have to just lay down some silicone or similar substance?
    3. I'm anticipating this to be roughly a 2 day job and am planning on doing a as much as possible. I have the donor cars water pump, timing chain, chain tensioner, vibration dampener, chain slider, and camshaft timing gear. Besides the normal gasket kits is there anything else I need?

    I do appreciate all the help, and please let me know how not to break my car.
     
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The factory uses a substance. The repair manual shows how to apply it—size of bead, where it goes exactly, how much time you have to do it and complete reassembly.
     
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  7. Bacon_Is_A_Pooper

    Bacon_Is_A_Pooper Junior Member

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    Thanks for telling about the factory substance, I have 2-3 days tops I have to do it on my weekend and it's my only car.
     
  8. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Which metroplex are you near?
     
  9. Bacon_Is_A_Pooper

    Bacon_Is_A_Pooper Junior Member

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    Idk what that is but I'm in central California
     
  10. Bacon_Is_A_Pooper

    Bacon_Is_A_Pooper Junior Member

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    Idk who is keeping up on this but, I have fine she's with the vvt solenoid change and it has head no effect but I did notice that the car does run a bit more smoothly.
    I have also changes out my instrument cluster to deal with the faulty combo meter.

    So to date the only things that I have done specifically for the P0016 is:
    A standard oil change with a full synthetic 5w-30 Castrol gtx magnetec and a fram oil filter
    A new vvt solenoid

    Any help would be fantastic.
     
  11. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    If there was a way, the manual linked above would likely mention it. I've always moved it to clean up the PVC, or get at the fuel rail.

    Please post here and let us know if you find the secret to this mystery.
    The manual may call for Toyota FIPG, but some have used other options with success.
    Did you inspect/clean the oil control valve filter during the recent VVT replacement?

    [​IMG]

    With those kind of miles (over 400k), a new timing chain and tensioner might be the best plan of attack. Here is an "advanced search" on DTC P0016, there are currently only 28 threads and likely one of them will offer some insight : https://priuschat.com/search/225658326/?q=p0016&t=post&o=relevance&g=1&c[node]=3+22+87+68+56+21+49+91+12+54+13+85+14

    One example with similar mileage : P0016 Code 2004 with 443,000 miles | PriusChat
     
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  12. Bacon_Is_A_Pooper

    Bacon_Is_A_Pooper Junior Member

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    For anyone still keeping up with me,

    I started working on the timing chain replacement about 4 days ago just kinda taking my time. In that time I have replaced the timing chain, guides, chain tensioner, 1 sprocket. I have new oil seals, new spark plugs, a k&n oil filter, new camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor. I have a new inverter coolant pump, cause that was one of the codes listed.

    My timing chain was loose when I took the valve cover off and I did seem a bit stretched, I also think that the tensioner was in need of replacement. The crankshaft position sensor also seemed a bit old as it was discolored and a pain to get off. I still need to have a new belt and put on.

    This is my first timing chain replacement, my car wasn't passing smog cause of the check engine light. And has been unregistered sense last year. Let's wish on my lucky stars that it starts, cause we're on day 5 of it being dismantled. Wish me luck.

    Bacon
     
  13. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Looks like you're being super thorough and replacing lots of stuff with new, so I suspect your odds of success are high!
     
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  14. Bacon_Is_A_Pooper

    Bacon_Is_A_Pooper Junior Member

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    The final chapter!!!

    I finished putting the car together this morning, and it turned on! At first I had my belt pulley too tight so It started screaming instantly. After some minor adjustment it stopped and started running normally. I took it around the block at 45 and got between 42-47 mpg, I brought it back and it was overheating it hit a high of 220F (104c) so I bleed the line and refilled with coolant. I think I put a little too much oil in it on the refill but I can drain it if I notice anything weird. But so far it seems to be okay, in the grand scheme of things. I have a new code P1150, I'll look at that later.
     
  15. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    You might want to look at that sooner rather than later. It might just be more air needing to be 'burped' out of the system.

    P1150
    Detection Item: Coolant Path Clog of Coolant Heat Storage System
    Trouble Areas:
    • Coolant heat storage tank outlet temperature sensor
    • Water valve (coolant flow control valve)
    • Cooling system (clogging)
    • Heat storage tank
    • ECM
     
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  16. Bacon_Is_A_Pooper

    Bacon_Is_A_Pooper Junior Member

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    I just ment for today, I work nights so I can only really do work on my car till early afternoon, I will be doing some more work on my car in the next coming days. I had gotten a code for the inverter coolant pump so I do have a new one that I am planning on installing. I will keep using as things progress
     
  17. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    No problem, it is hard to know what people mean when they say I get to that later. The P1151 I'm guessing is most likely air that needs to be bled from the coolant heat recovery system (CHRS) by way of running it for 20-second bursts until the air is clear from it. This the most likely reason that the temperature sensor is not detecting hot coolant when it expects to. The CHRS is part of the engine coolant loop, not the inverter coolant loop so it isn't related to the P1121 you had before.
     
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  18. Bacon_Is_A_Pooper

    Bacon_Is_A_Pooper Junior Member

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    So I did exactly that, I ran my car in butts until the water it was full, now in at normal operating temp. I popped a code P1121 but I saw that my inverter pump is still working, there is turbulence in the holding tank. Are off right now the only codes left are p0420 and p 1121.
     
  19. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    P1121, also in the engine coolant loop, relates to the 3-way coolant control valve.

    Detection Item: Coolant Flow Control Valve Position Sensor Circuit Stuck
    Trouble Area(s):
    • Water valve (coolant flow control valve)
    • Cooling system (clogging)
    This is an emissions related fault and can be fixed when convenient.

    I'd hold off doing anything about the P0420 until you can get the car running smoothly and can give it a good long high speed run so the catalytic converter can get up to temp for a good long while.
     
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