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Toyota Engine Oil

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by gen2prius, Aug 11, 2022.

  1. gen2prius

    gen2prius Junior Member

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    Planning to change engine oil, in previous service records they just say "Toyota Genuine Engine Oil".

    When I search for Toyota parts, there are different engine oils, is 5W-30 fully synthetic the correct oil? Correct in the sense that it is what "Toyota Genuine Engine Oil" for 2004-2009 Prius?
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yes 5W 30 syn oil is the stuff. No need for toyoda oil . They don't refine oil . They just sell other brands .
     
  3. gen2prius

    gen2prius Junior Member

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    Thanks for that advice. :D
     
  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    The Toyota oil has a good reputation though; likely currently made by Mobil, from what I've read. That's all I've ever used, so far. Pick it up while at the dealership getting oil filter and drain bolt washer. Though recently the price has gone through the roof.

    Oil specs are in the Owner's Manual. You can download a pdf of that from Toyota Tech Info, in the "manuals" section.

    Repair Manual excerpt for second gen oil change attached:
     

    Attached Files:

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  5. Doug McC

    Doug McC Active Member

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    You could look at the oil fill cap for the weight (assuming it hasn’t been replaced).
     
  6. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    I get better results with 0W-20 full synthetic and Toyota actually realized this and changed the oil type for Prius in models 2010 or newer... As for what label to pay for... In my research I've found that there's just a few manufacturers of synthetic oil but several dozen labels and the cheapest synthetic oil is often sourced from the same manufacturer as the most expensive synthetic oil. So most important part is to make sure you pick your label based on the color scheme and font and logo design that most appeals to you. :)
     
  7. gen2prius

    gen2prius Junior Member

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    The service department used to charge AU$40 for Toyota oil, one time they only charged $20, much cheaper than retail. Obviously they get it in drums but they don't normally pass on the savings, strange but not complaining though.

    Will need to check current retail prices, will probably go with Toyota if similarly priced, I think they are supplied by Castrol here.
     
  8. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Yeah, if you want to base your oil on least amount of packaging the smaller dealers will get motor oil by the barrell, but the large dealers have a storage tank and get it without any packaging because a truck pumps it into the tank.
     
  9. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    Since I've owned it my car has never been driven when the ambient temperature is below 40F, and for the last several months not below 80F. The last oil change they put in 10W30 instead of 5W30, but I let it slide since it is never very cold here. Any reason to think that one could even measure the difference in MPG or engine wear of 10W30 vs. 5W30 under these driving conditions? (OW20 sure, but that is 20 vs 30 when the engine and the air are both hot.)
     
  10. gen2prius

    gen2prius Junior Member

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    Probably does not matter for warmer weather, and things might have changed. But I remember reading that it's ok to swap from 10W-30 to 5W-30 but not ideal when the other way around. Theory is that 5W is thinner at cooler temperature, changing to thicker 10W slows down oil flow in the morning. It's fine if all along using 10W, but if usually 5W then best to stick with 5W.
     
  11. gen2prius

    gen2prius Junior Member

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    Was at the parts department to pickup oil and filter, Toyota 5W-30 is actually quite competitively priced. However it is dearer than synthetic oils that are on sale. Toyota oil doesn't go on sale, there are always some brands of oil on special. Anyway went with Toyota since I was already there.

    More importantly I found out that Toyota 10W-30 is not fully synthetic, may be semi synthetic but there is no mentioning of it. So it was an easy decision to go with 5W-30.
     
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  12. Another

    Another Senior Member

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    Prior owner and I never used synthetic in my 2007.
    Toyota dealer specifies conventional Toyota oil, 5W30 every 5,000 miles. At nearly 200k no visible oil consumption. SAE grade and weight of oil is on the filler cap.
     
  13. gen2prius

    gen2prius Junior Member

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    Probably largely theoretical, but I always prefer synthetic oil when there's a choice, it is made from higher quality and more stable base oil.
     
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  14. gen2prius

    gen2prius Junior Member

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    I should read the manual more often, it actually says 5W-30 is the best.

    [​IMG]
     
    #14 gen2prius, Aug 28, 2022
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2022
  15. gen2prius

    gen2prius Junior Member

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    Changed engine oil, the drain plug was really tight and had to use a breaker bar, but the more surprise was that the workshop did not use a washer last time. At first I thought the blue bit is the washer but I was convinced that it's part of the sump. I have looked, there's no washer in the oil pan, and no washer on the drain plug.

    [​IMG]
     
    #15 gen2prius, Aug 28, 2022
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2022
  16. Another

    Another Senior Member

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    Blue Loctite?
     
  17. gen2prius

    gen2prius Junior Member

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    I think the blue residue is the felt material left from earlier washers.
     
  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    upload_2022-8-28_8-35-25.png

    ^ That's the washer, stuck to the oil pan. If you haven't buttoned things up already: put a slim flat-blade against the edge, give a gentle tap with a hammer.
     
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  19. gen2prius

    gen2prius Junior Member

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    My goodness! I had a suspicion that's the washer but couldn't get it off using a flat headed screw driver, though I didn't try very hard.

    Now there are 2 washers. Until now the car was dealer serviced, but I dragged it out due to cost, I will be changing oil more regularly and will deal with the washers soon.
     
    #19 gen2prius, Aug 28, 2022
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2022
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  20. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    My usual approach is to stick the slim flat-blade at a low angle into the washer - you can see how there's a little space there between the washer's inner opening and the threads behind it, so you can get the little flat-blade behind it there with no risk to the threads if you're paying attention. Then just pop it off. I've never needed a hammer.