Toyota Prius 2011 Abs Problem

The noise you hear when you open the door and at least every third press on the brake pedal is the power brake accumulator. It is normal. Since the Prius doesn't have reliable vacuum for a typical power brake accumulator, it has an electric one. I can't look up the codes you have there since I'm at work, but another reason why the warning lights might come on when making the Prius ready is a depleted 12V battery. Did the dealership service department check the battery?

 

Could be expensive then. I'm not familiar with the repair, or if a person could DIY. A used part could probably be found, but reliability would be an issue. You certainly want to have reliable brakes. Maybe someone else has some other ideas.

Your first name is close to the Turkish word for "lion". I thought that was interesting.

 

If you look around for a document T-CP-D0H-A510-D.pdf online (such as here), you can get a good idea of the repair procedures involved.

The document was created for a warranty that applies to 2010, but it seems as if the repair procedure would work for your 2011 as well. The instructions show clever ways of dealing with the very tight clearances around the accumulator(booster pump) assembly.

By the flow chart on the second page, if there were only some reason to suspect the accumulator was failing, but no C1246 or C1256 code had appeared, replacing the accumulator would be enough. It seems that if C1246 or C1256 have been logged (as you mention in your original post), it is too late, nitrogen has been leaked into the brake booster(master cylinder/ABS actuator) assembly, leading to replacement of that also.

Hope this helps,
-Chap

 

Hi there, I’m having a similar issue with my 2011 Toyota Prius. Dashlights came up the ABS Brake and the vsc. It makes a noise every 4-5 seconds and the pedal sounds like there’s air leaking.

Took it to the dealership, only reseted the lights. And that made the abs work again.
But the noise is now every 10/15 secs and the pedal leak is still there.

They said eventually it will brake. Repair for abs pump and something else(main ...) csnt remember. Bottom line the work costs almost 5k!!!!!

Sounds weird that Im reading now about AbS recall for 2010. But nothing on the 2011 yet the problem seems to persist. Any advice??? I love my prius and i would love for it to get fixed. But not at the price of the car itself!!

Any suggestions will help. Thanks!

 

welcome!

how many miles on her? your best bet would be to try and find a decent mech who will install a salvage unit.

 

If you read the posts immediately preceding yours, you can see that it really matters (more than a factor of two in what the parts will cost you) to know what trouble codes you have. Therefore, I'd advocate reading those, or having them read.

In Gen 3, the (accumulator with booster pump) and the (actuator with master cylinder, booster, and ECU) are two separate replaceable units. While the first one is expensive, the second one is mind-bendingly expensive....

-Chap

 

It has 796100 miles. Just read te tech recommendation to change brake accumulator and MASTER Cylinder.... I understand the brake accumulator, but cant figure out why the MASTER CYLINDER!!!!

Is there anywhere I can report this fault to Toyota, so it starts pilling up and become a recall at some point?

 

796,100 miles???? no way!!!!! you'll never get a real at that mileage.

 

OOps 79610 sorry!

 

ah, that's better. that seems early for brake trouble. try calling toyota customer care, and asking for financial assistance.

 

Any idea on why they would want to change the Main cylinder too?

 

Well what did you do?

 

I had an idea, but that was back in post #8.

-Chap

 

@ChapmanF
can u share pdf document T-CP-D0H-A510-D in post #5
online link is dead.

 

Resolved?

 

Hello Prius Peeps!

I have an an ABS issue as well. Almost 120K miles on the car 2011.
The Brake, ABS and ((!)) lights are lit up on right side of dash
On left side the antiskid light is lit.

I get beeping noises going around turns some times.

As described above, the car makes a whirring sound every 4 seconds or so.
The sound is coming from a component that the brake are hooked to.

The codes I get are:
C0200
C0205
C1241
C1290
C1391

Took it to a shop and guy told me it was the ABS unit but not sure how in depth he looked at it. $2000-2500 for repair. I see rebuilt ones for $600 on ebay.

Another shop said it could be a wiring issue but they did not look at it. He said that 60% of time it was wiring.

Does anyone have a clue as to how I should approach this with much $ as stake.
Thanks!

 

sounds like a speed sensor

 

The first two of those codes pertain to speed sensor signals (front right and front left). That doesn't necessarily mean the speed sensors are the culprits, but anything (wiring, connectors, ...) in the way of those signals.

The next one indicates a sketchy voltage measured at the skid ECU. It can happen if the aux battery dipped below 9.5 V, but can also have to do with wiring, terminal corrosion, etc. ... it is an issue with the voltage that reaches the ECU. This code has five different subcodes that Techstream can retrieve (don't know about that Solus gadget) to pin it down more specifically (the details are in the manual).

Two weird sensor signals and a weird voltage at the ECU could all be coincidences, or they could maybe be related by a corroded-terminal condition where they all connect to the ECU.

The fourth code indicates the car doesn't believe the zero point of the steering angle sensor. It expects that reading to be zero when the car is going straight, and it thinks the car is going straight when the wheels are turning the same speed and the yaw sensor reads zero. SInce it is already having trouble sensing wheel speed, this could be a code that will go away upon resolving the speed sensing issues (or upon resolving those and then going through the yaw calibration). I would wait and see on that.

The last code indicates that your brake fluid pressure isn't holding up well (that's why it has to get pumped back up every four seconds, way too often). It is leaking somewhere; if there are no puddles around the car, it's an internal leak (some valve or seal isn't holding, and the pressurized fluid is scooting back to the reservoir).

That last one is the only one that sounds expensive. The internal leak could be in the accumulator assembly or in the actuator assembly (from the code's fortune cookie, you'd probably think the accumulator first, but the actuator has a lot more valves in it to be potential culprits). Each assembly is rather expensive, the actuator more than the accumulator, so it is definitely in your interest to try to pin down which of the two you need before opening your wallet.

On a four-second pump-up cycle, you might even be able to hear a squirty/hissy noise in one part or the other, from the fluid leaking between pump-ups, just by touching with a mechanic's stethoscope (or a screwdriver with the handle held tight against your ear).

2010s are covered by a warranty extension (ZJB) for leaky pressure issues, but I don't think it applies to 2011.