Toyota Prius Gen 4 to Gen 3 Engine swap issues!!!

Replaying an old post ...

Further pinning down the cause of your -612 (-614 in your case) is likely to require a specialized instrument known as a 'megger', or access to a person who has one and knows how to use it. There's a bit of discussion of those instruments here.

[The word is short for megohmmeter, a special tool to measure resistances in the millions of ohms, which an ordinary multimeter would just show as "doesn't conduct". It is also a brand name; the best-known brand of megohmmeter is Megger.]

A megger can look deceptively like an ordinary harmless multimeter, but can put out 500 or more volts during testing, and ruin your day. Test voltages that high can also be stored in the item you are testing, and surprise you after you think you are done.

So, if you haven't been trained on one before, you might try to find someone who has to help out. Or, if you order one of your own, use the time while you're waiting for the shipment to arrive to read the Stitch in Time document (found following the link above), paying special attention to the safety parts.

That's a very helpful document that will tell you a lot more than the brief manual that might come with an instrument (especially if you go with a cheap Chinese one, that might come with one page if you're lucky that shows how the batteries go in).

[That old post had a link for the Stitch in Time document that seems not to work anymore. This one still seems to, as of today: A Stitch in Time]

 

This is the AC compressor? There’s been quite a few reports here, of pressure-washed engine bays resulting in water incursion, corroded connector pins, ultimately meaning a bricked component, at the compressor’s 12 volt connection, which sits like a little “rain gauge”, facing skyward atop the compressor.

 

Must have taken quite the pressure wash to accomplish the smashing of that compressor....

 

Hey, I can always count on your dripping sarky...