toyota transmission fluid story

They sure love Lubeguard over at Bitog. Try it. Then pull a UOA. I use:

wearcheck.com

as they charge $25 and do a TAN also. Post it in the transaxle sticky. I have been using Redline D6 for 7 years.

I highly recommend changing the Inverter coolant and cleaning the AC e-coil under the dash. All very very easy hardest part is jacking up the car and since your under there doing the trans catch all 3 like me.

Need a gallon of Toyota SLLC and a can of Kool it. Kool it is pressurized aerosol can with special little tubing that you stick into the ac drip hose under the car. Empty the can into that hose it fills the E-box up with foamy microbial cleaner and cleans the box, the coil, the drip hose. car will smell real nice and it prevents mold buildup. Dealer charges $100 to do this a diy the can is $15. I also buy a can of spary evap coil cleaner and when done with everything I hose down the front of the condenser with the cleaner. Let it sit. Then rinse off. Results in really nice running ac system. I try to do this once a year.

Inverter is easy. Open cap on bottle. Underneath take out the dump bolt. Dump it. I pour some distilled water through it and let it dump out to wash out any residual. There will still be some residual though. Put dump bolt back in and fill it up with SLLC. Put car in READY and open the bleed petcock in front of the Inverter. Leave it open. Keep filling the bottle till its full. Open and close the petcock till just fluid spits out no air.
It won't be much. Top off the bottle. Done. The really correct way is to snake a hose from the bleeder back in the bottle.
I don't have the hose you may.

If you have the time just dump out the radiator too. Don't open any other petcock just the rad petcock. Open the cap on the rad and dump it. Not obver flow bottle the rad cap.
Changing the rad coolant is a real pain. Very bad airlock. Easier to just dump the rad twice a year and fill it back up with SLLC. No airlock.
It really helps.

Thats another gallon of SLLC.

Hey your under there right? Just keep an eye on the Inverter and rad levels in the next few days as they will settle.

Total parts cost on these 4 operations is about $125. Dealer would charge probably $600 maybe more for all this.

 

Kool it:

 

Coil Cleaner:

AC-Safe Air Conditioner Coil Foaming Cleaner-AC-920 at The Home Depot

 

^ If I was going to flush it a bit, instead of distilled water you mention, I'd use the spec'd coolant. Seems to me if you use water it's going to end up diluting your final coolant addition.

 

EEeek!

$100 for would be a reasonable charge for both. We are talking about opening two bolts here, after all.

 

That's a waste of coolant. It comes out instantly as you pour it in. Nothing will be diluted. And so what if its diluted a tiny tiny bit. Your so far ahead of the game getting 98% of it anyway and replacing it with new coolant. You always think of it as a test tube lab experiment. Its a car coolant loop for god's sake. Which reveals your real life experience in this.

Cue how Honda does it:

 

Yeah thanks for that Ed.