Track battery heat issue

Ever had a multi speed switch go bad on you and did not realize it was just healthy enough to not send a code but baked an engine? I have twice over my 50 years. Now we are talking electric. Lost count of how many power tools that have heat sensors in them that are supposed to temp kill the tool that did not engage and fried everything. When you hit the code the damage is done and Toyota, dodge, DeWalt, porter cable, ect make alot of money from hitting the code threshold.

Your approach is "hey the Toyota sensors that were installed 17 years ago are perfect". If you feel good with that great. Me personally would like to know will 120 degrees, 128 degrees, 140 degrees, cause damage that is going to cost me money sooner than I had hoped.

The fact that Toyota causes third get ev mode to not be able to engage as per their programming tells me that they feel that one of their big selling points will damage your car over 107 so what does 130 do to the battery.

Thinking to much into it? Maybe. Then again I work in a profession where tolerances are known and knowing those tolerances make me feel better

 

As for being ripped off. In my profession we moved from nim to lith ion over a decade ago I have seen the benefits of litho first hand in my hands for over 15 years (a company I worked for was a prototype tester for a major tool company) my current battery was a warranty replacement of a refurb that lasted 11 months. I went to my local dealer when refurb #1 went and they were happy to drop a new battery into my Prius for just a few bucks more than I am paying for the litho and they had 3 on their shelf in stock. I trust my dealer with my life to the extent they are the only ones that do my oil changes and tire rotations let alone all other maintenance.

My problem with their in stock battery's was 2 had manufactured date of 2017 and one 2018. Battery shelf life is real and those battery's, all things being equal will not last as long as a manufacturer date of 2022 so am I getting scammed? Only time will tell. If it's a bust I will make sure to let you know so you can say I told you so. If in 5 years or so everything is roses I will also let you know so you can tell everyone back in 2022 you should have STFU

 

First thing I did when I bought this car a year and a half ago was clean the fan (and it was U G L Y) a month after purchase the battery went (highly suspect it was a home "repair" that was never balanced properly) I got a refurb battery that lasted 11 months with 9 of those seeing service as a doordash car where I was putting miles and hours on that battery 5x times normal use but ran into regular 120 plus temps on the track battery (in warm weather sometimes 3 to 4 days a week with highest seen 129) got replacement refurb on warrenty less than 3 months ago and seeing temps in 120 plus again.

I do not monitor all the time so if the car can run with temps above 130 then I do not know how high they have gotten. Currently IR carries from one cell being 22 and worst cell being 29 (worst I saw but no screen shot. This was at same time)

Knowing that multi speed fans can malfunction without throwing codes at times and knowing that when the refurbs we're put in they read perfect across the board each time for at least 2 weeks (monitored constant for first 2 weeks) I have suspicions either have just had dumb luck with the refurb cells going out of wack or I have an issue with the cooling fan system (temp sensors talking to fan speed sensor talking to fan)

I wanted to get the litho upgrade as soon as I bought the car but talked myself out of it. I just like the idea of litho over nim. My plan going forward is to do the install then monitor 24/7 and watch temps. Honestly I am half tempted to oem replace the fan and sensors right now (looks to cost under $300) but it's become a bit of a science experiment now.

It is funny that pretty much everyone agrees that the fan kicks on (speed 1) at 95F but no one seems to be willing to part with the knowledge of at what temps the car will ramp up to each additional level. With my car the fan at speed one pushes air at speed 1 but you can not feel air coming out the exhaust and will not even push smoke (cigarette test) when I over ride fan it will blow your hair off on the exhaust side so the path appears to be clear and at over ride will drop temps like a rock.

Side contributing factor is regen and hills. We all can agree that these will cause heat in the battery. I live in Pittsburgh Pa. And what we call little hills here most of the country calls mountains so maybe my issue with the refurbs is they are best suited for Kansas City or Richmond VA where they will last 3 to 5 years but the stresses that my local terrain put them through is just to harsh.

Lot of babbling and lots of theroys but without solid numbers no way to prove or disprove and unfortunately I am finding that these numbers are top secret for TRD eyes only