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Transaxle Failure

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by dailyphotofix, Feb 26, 2009.

  1. ronhowell

    ronhowell Active Member

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    Yes indeed! I certainly hope you had the tow-truck driver lift the front wheels onto his carrier so only the rear wheels were in ground contact when your car was towed.
     
  2. hobbit

    hobbit Senior Member

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    The front wheels would be locked with the parking pawl. The
    rear wheels *might* be held hard enough to drag by the parking
    brake, but rolling the car forcefully is often enough to overcome
    that and make the wheels turn.
    .
    _H*
     
  3. icarus

    icarus Senior Member

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    Advice that is worth exactly what you pay for it,,, but.

    If this were my car, and it had just under gone a major failure of a pretty reliable component,,, I would consider a second opinion at a minimum, and certainly a second estimate. I would also look carefully for any TSBs that might be out there regarding this particular problem with this year/model etc.

    It is always possible that some small failure is causing the person doing the diagnoses to conclude that "the transaxle" has failed, when in realit it might be a servo or a sensor or a left handed muffler bearing in the trans.

    It just seems that with repairs of this magnitude some extra caution might be warranted.

    Icarus
     
  4. dailyphotofix

    dailyphotofix Junior Member

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    Yes, I was very hesitant before actually purchasing the transaxle...but I spoke with the mechanic at the dealership and he said that he checked each of the parts individually for the faults since all the different codes came up and the transaxle came up as the part with the failure. Also, it was pretty obvious that the failure was the transaxle because when the warning lights came on the car would vibrate and shutter really bad upon acceleration until the gas engine kicked in and it would also make a really strange noise upon decelleration. With the combination of obvious noises, cars behaviour, warning lights, and diagnoisis of the mechanic I am 99.9% sure that it is the transaxle. I am still going to do more diagnostics myself as I am working on the car. I obtained the toyota factory manuals online which are quite extensive in giving the spefications and steps for testing and repairing each part of the car, so those are helping me out a lot.

    I did not get much done this weekend as I was really busy with work. I should have the transaxle this week and Saturday and Sunday I will be working on it all day...so I will have a lot of photos for you after that!
     
  5. dailyphotofix

    dailyphotofix Junior Member

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    Just a quick note...I was browsing through the manuals I bought and found this little tidbit about one of the codes that came up:

    "With the power switch's power mode changed to ON (IG),
    disconnect the battery. If the key is not in the key slot
    during reconnection, DTC B2799 may be output."

    I did disconnect the battery and replace it without the key in the slot while I was trying to troubleshoot when the car broke down.

    That may be the explanation for that code.
     
  6. dailyphotofix

    dailyphotofix Junior Member

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    The transaxle has been delayed...it will not be here until Tuesday. Looks like its going to be one more weekend before I can get it put in.

    Good news is I have a couple more friends who are interested in helping me out with it so I should have plenty of hands to work with.

    -Peter
     
  7. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Have you done any resistance checks in an effort to satisfy yourself that the existing transaxle actually needs to be replaced? You won't be happy if you go to the trouble of installing the replacement, only to find out there's no improvement...
     
  8. tochatihu

    tochatihu Senior Member

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    Hobbit you really ought to go cross country (again) and get in on this project. Big Bear is lovely in the springtime...
     
  9. dailyphotofix

    dailyphotofix Junior Member

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    I have no done the resistance checks yet. I am planning on doing them tomorrow while I am working on my other car (81' VW Veggie/Diesel Rabbit).

    Does anyone know if I need a gasket kit for replacing the transaxle? I guess I could call Art's they would probably know...
     
  10. dailyphotofix

    dailyphotofix Junior Member

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    It is! Well usually. It was nice and warm last week...now it is 29 degrees outside and I am freezing my butt off. I guess it is good for the skiers, keeps the snow around longer.
     
  11. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Referring to the repair manual, it appears that you'll need two exhaust system gaskets since you'll have to remove and replace the exhaust system. You may also want to install 3 new plug gaskets on the replacement transaxle as you'll be adding new ATF WS and coolant.

    Do you plan to remove the transaxle while leaving the engine installed; or do you plan to remove engine/transaxle as one piece, then separate them away from the vehicle?
     
  12. HTMLSpinnr

    HTMLSpinnr Super Moderator
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    Daily, do you drive up and down the hill much? How fast/hard do you drive it?

    Also, which dealer did you take it to? Redlands or San Bernardino?

    Grew up there myself, and my folks still have a weekend place up there. I can't help but think the drive up/down the mountain (any route) is good for either electric motor over time, but especially if driven hard.
     
  13. Paul R. Haller

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    Oh Man, I'm bumed!!! Just thinking of all that work. Sorry that it happened to you but thank you for including all of us. I'm a seasoned car mechanic, 30 + years wrenching and even I cringe at this job. I have worked on all kinds of cars and diesels but never on a hybrid and not a job like this to start with. You have my sympathies and my interest. I have a 71 GTO judge in the garage and I did the complete rebuild of virtually every component including all interior, body, mechanical, and paint work but it's different when it's a hobbie vs a need. I took 8 years doing it. You can't wait that long so, it will be an intense learning curve. Take your time, do it right, and don't be afraid to ask someone else who knows more for answers. If you get really frustrated... walk away for an hour and consider your options and then, come back to it. Sometimes the hardest problems are overcome easily with a fresh outlook.

    Keep us posted on your progress and hopefully no smashed fingers or skinned knuckles. I'll be watching with keen interest the outcome of this adventure.
    -Paul R. Haller-
     
  14. dailyphotofix

    dailyphotofix Junior Member

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    Good to know about the exhaust gaskets...I knew I would need the plug gaskets. I am planning on picking up the coolent and ATF this week.

    I am thinking that I am going to remove the transaxle with the engine still in...at least thats my plan for now. The manual I have has pretty clear instructions on how to do it that way, so I am going to try to do that and if it is too hard then I will pull everything.

    I have heard it is pretty hard to seperate the transaxle from the engine so that is the only thing I am worried about if I do not pull the whole engine.
     
  15. dailyphotofix

    dailyphotofix Junior Member

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    Yes, I drive up and down the hill every weekend. I take it really easy with the prius though. I am usually coasting the whole way down and there is traffic on the way up anyway.

    I took it to the dealer in riverside because I was in that area.
     
  16. dailyphotofix

    dailyphotofix Junior Member

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    Thanks for the advice. I know its going to be a tough job, but I have a lot of help and some good instruction.

    I have rebuilt several cars before, so I am not totally green but this is my first hybrid problem.

    I am currently training as an aircraft mechanic so I have a couple guys from school who want to help out as well as one of my teachers who is an electrical genius.

    I will be sure to keep you guys updated and hopefully I will get this project done without any major problems!
     
  17. dailyphotofix

    dailyphotofix Junior Member

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    I talked to the dealer and they told me that there were no subcodes, just the ones they gave me...

    They told me that they checked out each component and came up with the transaxle being the one with the failure.
     
  18. dailyphotofix

    dailyphotofix Junior Member

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    Update!

    Lots of news for today:

    I started doing some more diagnostics on the transaxle today so I can be 100% sure that I am replacing the correct part.

    I did all of the resistance checks and was disappointed to find none of them out of out of limits. My results are in bold:



    Speed Sensor
    A1 (GCS) - A4 (GCSG) 12.6 to 16.8 Ω 13.3
    A2 (GSN) - A5 (GSNG) 12.6 to 16.8 Ω 13.3
    A3 (GRF) - A6 (GRFG) 7.65 to 10.2 Ω 8.3
    B1 (MRF) - B4 (MRFG) 7.65 to 10.2 Ω 8.4
    B2 (MSN) - B5 (MSNG) 12.6 to 16.8 Ω 14.3
    B3 (MCS) - B6 (MCSG) 12.6 to 16.8 Ω 13.3

    Temperature Sensor
    C1 (MMT) - C4 (MMTG) 87.3 to 110.5 kΩ at 10°C (50°F) 156.4k
    23.8 to 28.5 kΩ at 40°C (104°F)
    C3 (OMT) - C6 (OMTG) 87.3 to 110.5 kΩ at 10°C (50°F) 155.8k
    23.8 to 28.5 kΩ at 40°C (104°F)

    I then called the dealership again to check with them about any subcodes. When I finally got a hold of someone in the service dept. I was lectured for 15 minutes about how I should not be working on my own car, how I am not allowed to work on the hybrid system, and how I am un-certified and incapable of working on a prius. He then told me how he has been working on hybrids for "38 years" and it took everything in me to not scoff at him. Does he think I am stupid? Hybrids have not been around for 38 years. Wow...

    Finally after convincing him that I know what I am doing the guy gave me the subcodes for P0A90 which were 604/605. I know that this hybrid stuff is pretty tricky, but seriously its not like it takes a brain surgeon to understand electricity. Anyway...

    After going through my manual I found that the subcodes 604/605 refeer to the transaxle or the battery current sensor. I did not want to pull apart the whole back of the car to get to the current sensor since I was already pretty sure that was not it since there were noises coming from the transaxle after the warning lights came on and if it was only that sensor then it would have just been the warning lights.

    Now the interesting part.

    I found a seal to be leaking on the back of the transaxle, it had leaked all the way down the back (ATF fluid was leaking). From there I decided to drain the fluids from the transaxle to see what was going on with that. The coolent drained fine, obviously. I then drained the ATF fluid from the transaxle. The drain plug had at least an 1/8 inch of metal shavings stuck to it plus several large 1/6 inch chunks of metal stuck on it. After draining the fluid I filtered part of it and even the fluid from the top of the bucket still had a lot of metal content which leads me to believe that there was a mechanical failure in the transaxle.


    I was realived to find the metal in the fluid because it confirmed to me that the problem is absolutly the transaxle. It makes sense now that none of the resistance checks failed since it looks like a mechanical failure not a electrical.



    I took photos of everything, but I will be unable to upload them until Monday. I will put them up to show you the fluids and the metal content.


    After my conversation with the manager at the Riverside Toyota Dealership I am even more determined to fix this problem. I am looking forward to driving into the dealership when I have completed it and asking him how an "unqualified" and "incompetant" person repaired his hybrid.



    I was thinking about sending some of the ATF in for analysis, but since I am replacing the transaxle there is no point. No doubt I will be pulling the transaxle apart one I am done with this project to see what it looks like inside.


    Does anyone have any experience with changing the inverter/transaxle coolent? I am wondering how difficult the bleeding process will be when it comes time for that. I have heard that you need to get it right or else it can cause some severe damage.


    The transaxle is supposed to be delivered on Tuesday so next weekend is the big event. Hopefully everything goes smoothly!
     
  19. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Thanks for the update. I agree that the transaxle is the likely failed component given the presence of the large metal chips on the drain plug. Normally you would expect to find only a small accumulation of fine ferrous particles on the magnet.

    Regarding the inverter coolant, that is not too hard to do. Note the presence of the bleed valve, follow the repair manual instructions, and listen for air bubbles in the system as the pump is running when the car is IG-ON. As long as you hear air bubbles, you have to continue working to purge the air out. Also you should see a step in the fluid level in the inverter coolant reservoir, where the rear is somewhat higher than the front.

    While you are taking your photos, please also take a photo of the area where the ATF leak occurred. That is unusual to hear about.

    Have you removed the cowl below the windshield, and the inverter yet?

    Also, are you planning to obtain the two engine hangers as specified in the repair manual, or do you have an alternate means to hold the engine up while the transaxle is out of the car?
     
  20. dailyphotofix

    dailyphotofix Junior Member

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    I did take photos of the leak, so I will have those up on Monday. I have only removed the bottom engine covers so far, I was kept pretty busy with the diagnostics today so I did not have enough time to continue pulling the inverter.

    I am probably going to go buy the engine hangers, I have a list of things I am going to get from the dealer this week. Although I do have a under hoist which I can prop the engine up with if needed.

    Thank you for all of your interest and advice it is good to have support as I am going through this project.