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Transaxle Fluid Change

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Dave Jeffries, Nov 24, 2018.

  1. Dave Jeffries

    Dave Jeffries Junior Member

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    Just wanted to post my 2 cents worth. Bought fluid 11/23/18 at the dealership for $12.99/qt. I have a 2005 with 116K miles on it. Raised the frontend and supported on jack stands. Was surprised at how accessable the plugs were. Had the breaker bar ready and the plugs were no problem to break loose, Of course I live in the West where road salts are not on my roads very often. Drained and refilled the transaxle. Had a large pan, like a cookie sheet, to catch the spills from the "gun" that was used to pump the fluid in. Pumped in all 4 quarts. Lowered the car back to level and let any overfill spill out the fill hole. Not much came out. Put the fill plug in and tightened it. Wiped off the dribble on the case. Now I am interested to see if we can tell any difference in how the car performs. I have been putting this off for a year and was surprised at the access to the plugs and how simple this drain and refill really is.
     
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  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    nice write up, thank you!(y)
     
  3. paphillyman

    paphillyman Member

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    Its not really going to make your car "perform" any better , its just going to work like its suppose too , if you dont change it after awhile the fluid will be so broken down that it will eventually cause problems and big bucks .
     
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  4. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Just basic maintenance wont really run better unless the fluid was really bad. Good news is based on my observations having changed mine 3 times already is you really don't need to change it again. Its just all the beak in wear that's really bad.
    There's some UOA's over in the trans sticky.

    Should have read some posts about that change out because there's a much easier way to fill it up just snake a long hosed funnel in from the top into the side fill hole. Fill er up.

    What I do catch every time I do the trans fluid is I replace the Inverter coolant too since your under there and the dump bolt for the Inverter coolant is right next to the dump bolt for the trans. Really easy to change that coolant. Hundreds of post about that. You will notice much better mileage with fresh inverter coolant. Longer pump life.

    I try to take advantge of the car being up so high in the air and also clean the cabin ac ecoil also. I use 2 cans of Kool It (amazon.com). Hook it to the ac drip hose and inject the cleaner into the ecoil. Keeps ecoil and drip hose clean and makes the car smell much better. Cleans out all the mold in the ecoil. Dealer charges $125 for this Kool it is $15 a can.
    I buy 2 spray cans of coil cleaner from Lowes take off the black plastic cover over the rad and hose down the ac condenser in front of the rad. let it sit then rinse.
    Clean condenser is much colder ac and longer life for the compressor. Just like you should be doing on your home unit.

    And lastly concerning the engine coolant don't ever dump that whole system its a bitch to get the air out with the CHRS canister. Just dump the rad till its empty and fill it up with fresh Toyota LLC. Do that every 6 months really helps. And will not invoke air lock. Fresh coolant=longer ice pump life.

    Just basic car maintenance.
     
    #4 edthefox5, Dec 24, 2018
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2018
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  5. paphillyman

    paphillyman Member

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    thanks Ed , I take all the tips I can find. didnt even know about the cabin ac ecoil , you just inject the cleaner into the ecoil and let it do its thing ?
     
  6. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Yes it comes with a hose attachment that you connect to the drip hose it’s a pressurized can of microbial
    Foam cleaner. You hold the button down and dump the foam contents in and then let it sit for a while and then when you disconnect the hose from the can it drips back out as liquid.
    First time use 2 cans.

    Also forgot to mention it’s a good idea to condition the cv boots so they don’t dry out and crack. Just spray
    Black Magic rubber conditioner on the boots and wipe off with a rag. If the boot cracks the cv joint will get dust and grit in the bearing and fail. Keep them pliable it will save you hundreds of $$$

    I also hose the hell out of the suspension with CSP spray it’s a great product spray grease no smell and it stays where you soray it, Hood latch hood hinges door hinges hatch hinges bushings and bearings in the front and rear suspension. And the drivers side for keyhole, keep that mechanical door lock working because if the 12 volt battery died it’s the only way to get into the car.
    My car has no rust no squeaks no noise from suspension.

    Only pls rep around here that sells CSP is Home Depot. Made by PB BLASTER. really good product we buy it by the case at work.
     
  7. paphillyman

    paphillyman Member

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    good stuff Ed thanks
     
  8. MrWhoopee

    MrWhoopee Junior Member

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  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Oh yeah, lol. Do post what the drained fluid looks like, maybe post some pics.

    Do you have a Toyota dealership nearby? Never hurts to check with their parts department. Last time for me it was $9.32 (CDN) per liter). Even if it was a buck or two more, buying local is simple/direct.
     
  10. MrWhoopee

    MrWhoopee Junior Member

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    [QUOTE="Mendel Leisk, post: 2826467, member: 69191
    Do you have a Toyota dealership nearby? Never hurts to check with their parts department. Last time for me it was $9.32 (CDN) per liter). Even if it was a buck or two more, buying local is simple/direct.[/QUOTE]

    It's 42 miles to the nearest dealer, 1/4 mile to my mailbox.